rfwoodvt
New member
- Location
- This side of eternity.
Country boy, thanx! I was thinking along the same lines, but right now the friction is too much. I'm just not sure if I should round the edges of the hole more or increase it's diameter. I'm thinking that diameter increase would be the wrong choice.
Any thots on this?
As for the discussion on laminates there is a potential problem with the polymer resin used for the glue.
That will certainly received friction heat and unless it is high-heat polymer it can melt and fuse to the rope while also exposing the wood laminate layers.
In theory, as the glue dissipates the laminate edges are exposed and depending on the thickness of the layers scraper or "knife" edges can result in abrasion.
If you have ever ran your hand on the raw edge of cracked fiberglass you get the picture.
If the glue has saturated the wood layers they may stay "sharp" longer.
I'm not suggesting that these edges will be "knife sharp" just that they will be relatively abrasive.
As for your basic wood Rope Wrench...If I recall my engineering correctly separation(splitting) happens more readily between rings rather than within rings. I may be wrong here but it was with that thought that I chose my hickory handle.
The hammer handle I used was quarter sawn and I made sure that the rings ran in the same direction the rope would run. I think that will solve, or reduce the wood failure problem. Will have to wait and see I guess.
Any thots on this?
As for the discussion on laminates there is a potential problem with the polymer resin used for the glue.
That will certainly received friction heat and unless it is high-heat polymer it can melt and fuse to the rope while also exposing the wood laminate layers.
In theory, as the glue dissipates the laminate edges are exposed and depending on the thickness of the layers scraper or "knife" edges can result in abrasion.
If you have ever ran your hand on the raw edge of cracked fiberglass you get the picture.
If the glue has saturated the wood layers they may stay "sharp" longer.
I'm not suggesting that these edges will be "knife sharp" just that they will be relatively abrasive.
As for your basic wood Rope Wrench...If I recall my engineering correctly separation(splitting) happens more readily between rings rather than within rings. I may be wrong here but it was with that thought that I chose my hickory handle.
The hammer handle I used was quarter sawn and I made sure that the rings ran in the same direction the rope would run. I think that will solve, or reduce the wood failure problem. Will have to wait and see I guess.










