moss
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Carlisle, Massachusetts, U.S.
Great discussion, thanks for posting your report. I'm originally from a rec climbing background, I can relate to slower learning progress than daily work climbers, I climbed when I could when I started, never enough.
In my early days teaching myself to climb I realized I needed to learn some solid safety protocols from an expert and went down to Atlanta and took Peter Jenkin's TCI "basic course". One of the key safety concepts I learned is around the "switchover". A switchover is whenever you transfer yourself from one tie-in or system to another. The protocol is this: when you attach to a second system, stay clipped in to the first attachment, slack the first system and completely load up the second system, preferably feet off the tree or if they contact the tree no load bearing on your feet. Once you've verified the the second system is functional and holding your position go ahead and detach the first system.
The tricky part is that in your incident you didn't switch to a new system, but you essentially created the conditions that occur when you switch to a new system. When you climbed over the the limb, slacked, then reloaded the system you just entered into what should be a switchover protocol. At that point you would put your lanyard on a limb, and use it as your "first attachment" in the switchover protocol. A pro climber may or may not do that. They are likely doing a conscious version of the switchover protocol as they prepare to reload the system, ie: visual check of the system, gradually putting their weight back on (not jumping on it) and keeping an arm or foot solidly on the tree as they load it up.
If you consistently practice a solid switchover protocol in your climbing you will likely lose the need to have a back-up prussik above your system.
-AJ
In my early days teaching myself to climb I realized I needed to learn some solid safety protocols from an expert and went down to Atlanta and took Peter Jenkin's TCI "basic course". One of the key safety concepts I learned is around the "switchover". A switchover is whenever you transfer yourself from one tie-in or system to another. The protocol is this: when you attach to a second system, stay clipped in to the first attachment, slack the first system and completely load up the second system, preferably feet off the tree or if they contact the tree no load bearing on your feet. Once you've verified the the second system is functional and holding your position go ahead and detach the first system.
The tricky part is that in your incident you didn't switch to a new system, but you essentially created the conditions that occur when you switch to a new system. When you climbed over the the limb, slacked, then reloaded the system you just entered into what should be a switchover protocol. At that point you would put your lanyard on a limb, and use it as your "first attachment" in the switchover protocol. A pro climber may or may not do that. They are likely doing a conscious version of the switchover protocol as they prepare to reload the system, ie: visual check of the system, gradually putting their weight back on (not jumping on it) and keeping an arm or foot solidly on the tree as they load it up.
If you consistently practice a solid switchover protocol in your climbing you will likely lose the need to have a back-up prussik above your system.
-AJ