Rope Wrench Feedback?

Been rocking out the friction saver trick the past few days pruning Pin Oaks. Really digging it, its sweet not having that terminating end of line to worry about cutting, but still being able to pass through any amount of redirects.

Only thing I've noticed, and idk if anyone else has experience with this, I've noticed the normal hackling that occurs from your friction hitch no longer occurs below your hitch, but on the other side of line, the one with no weight in it. My only guess for this is since its routed through rings, the rope is free to rotate at the tip, thus lessening or totally counteracting the hackling below your hitch. It'd be cool to hear what others that have used this technique have to say about this as well.
 
I am loving the wrench, can't get over the simplicity of it. My friend had something about the same thing, a rock climbing gadget. Does anyone have any ideas to tether it close to one's self? Is webbing the best, sounds easy, just curious if there are any other ideas.
 
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I've noticed the normal hackling that occurs from your friction hitch no longer occurs below your hitch, but on the other side of line,

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What's the hackling? Not sure I know what you're referring to.

Also, what's your retrieval method with the FS? Do you leave a long tail or have to climb back to the TIP before descent?
 
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I've noticed the normal hackling that occurs from your friction hitch no longer occurs below your hitch, but on the other side of line,

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What's the hackling? Not sure I know what you're referring to.

Also, what's your retrieval method with the FS? Do you leave a long tail or have to climb back to the TIP before descent?

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I believe it is using a rigging plate and a stopper knot on the small ring side with a throwline attached to the stopper knot.
 
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I believe it is using a rigging plate and a stopper knot on the small ring side with a throwline attached to the stopper knot.

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Got it. Thanks, Casey. In fact, I think this thread is so long, there were actually references to that earlier. My bad.
 
Yep. I removed the rigging plate from the equation though and just rock an alpine butterfly with a biner through the loop capturing the free leg of rope. Removes the metal on metal contact on one less piece of gear to get stuck.
 
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alpine butterfly with a biner through the loop capturing the free leg of rope.

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I really wanted to do that, but I was a bit worried about side loading the biner, so I tied a ring into an Alpine B. I was coming down a spar, so the ring side was short. Otherwise, the ring would require too much threading to be practical.
 
Ha ha It looks likeI might have four 100 footers soon my HTP is unraveling quickly, anyone want one lol. Carry you are right I think I’m snagging my line when I’m in awkward positions and making quick movements to reposition. Can you post a pic of how you attach your saw? I think I need to raise mine up a bit.
 
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Ha ha It looks likeI might have four 100 footers soon my HTP is unraveling quickly, anyone want one lol. Carry you are right I think I’m snagging my line when I’m in awkward positions and making quick movements to reposition. Can you post a pic of how you attach your saw? I think I need to raise mine up a bit.

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nothing special Ian, I have 2 caritools and use lanyards that have the ring on then, When moving , I clip that ring on the caritool, shortening my lanyard by 3/4's.
 

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I tried it with a Spiderjack. I think a hitch is nicer because it's easier to operate with either hand. The Spiderjack feels a bit funky with my left hand because of the velcro holder upper thingy. Plus, your rope is running half the speed through the hitch in SRT than in DRT for a descent of equal speed, so wear is next to nothing. It'll cost you a bunch less, too.
 
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Casey man....going srt will save u so much money man. It takes so much gear and headaches out of the equation.

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Yea man I know. Just not 100% sold yet. I am at 95% we just don't climb tall enough trees.

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Same boat. Usually I'm not going more then about 60feet. Having a hard time pulling the trigger. I fear once I buy it and get use to it you guys will come up with some other cool gadget.
 
Gadgets like this only come once every decade or so mate :)

pull the trigger and be free...:)


I don't always climb really tall trees, but it works in all trees, I use it from 20 footers to 120 footers equally.


It is a bit of a re-learning curve, but learning is good and the results are most excellent.
 
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Same boat. Usually I'm not going more then about 60feet. Having a hard time pulling the trigger. I fear once I buy it and get use to it you guys will come up with some other cool gadget.

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I just did a bunch of 20 - 40 footers this past saturday. It doesnt have to be gigantic to reap the benefits of the thing. Just being able to natural redi through any crotch you choose, without having to go retrieve is enough. The one Pin Oak I did I was through my TIP and 3 redi's when I hit the ground.

Worth every penny.
 
yep, the ability to move thru the canopy unimpeded by friction and without having to go all the way to your TIP and down the other side to work that side of the tree is pretty cool.

I find myself purposely going thru tons of redirects, just to watch the rope come back thru all of them slick as sour owl poop :)
 
As with DdRT, you just have to be sure that you don't build up too much friction. I redirected too much in a tall tree once, and almost had to reclimb 80' to reduce the friction in my SRT system or get a 2:1 system to pull my rope out of the tree.
 
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As with DdRT, you just have to be sure that you don't build up too much friction. I redirected too much in a tall tree once, and almost had to reclimb 80' to reduce the friction in my SRT system or get a 2:1 system to pull my rope out of the tree.

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it is the initial pull that is hard, after that, it comes out ;) you just gotta pull harder :)
 
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