Rope Wrench Feedback?

Kevin Nice talking with you at TCI on Thursday and thanks for pointing me over to the sterling booth to replace my line I cut that ,morning. I ended up just getting the same diameter htp so I could get back to work quickly fighting the storm damage in CT. After things calm down over here I would like to try a little fatter static line. So far I’m a fan of static lines it’s like climbing a ladder. You push down and you go up! Very efficient.
 
It was great meeting you too Ian, i am going to have to try the Static.


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Oh, you mean, the 2:1 that is not as fast as 1:1 or as easy as 3:1 ? :)

Dave

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Yeah that would be a loss of an option, a quite good and well time tested option at that. I almost never use the 3:1 option in SRT, kind of lame and slow IMO. Another thing that is not quite as simple in SRT, (but still simple enough) is the alternate lanyard method of dDRT.

Its really funny that I am now finding myself defending the merits of dDRT. Especially in a rope wrench thread.

Since the fall of 2008 I can count on my two hands the number of trees that I have climbed dDRT a few of those times being at comps where I was not allowed to climb SRT. That said, I am aware of its shortcomings and realize that it may not be for everyone in every situation.
 
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... Its really funny that I am now finding myself defending the merits of dDRT. Especially in a rope wrench thread.

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Yes, it is.
I am well aware of what traditional and advanced doubled rope climbing techniques can and cannot do. The level of efficiency modern doubled rope systems have achieved is truly amazing. But it is still based on arm strength for movement. This looks really cool, and rates high for style but when combined with all the other work that must be accomplished with your arms in day-to-day work of an arborist, it does promote unnecessary, overuse injuries.
As best as I can tell, SRT has no holes or weaknesses, that can not be overcome by knowledge or applied techniques. Trying to muscle through an SRT movement through arm strength is not utilizing all it has to offer.

Dave
 
so Dave, how do you move short distance in-tree?

without resorting to arm strength?

my biggest beef with the wrench system is having to clip your pantin in all the time to move short jaunts, maybe it is the way my body mechanics work, but I am always having it kick out when I least want it to.

clipping a biner in is a PITA :(

I'm getting better at planning my climb so I don't have to move up and down as much, but sometimes, for short jaunts, you have to ans this is it's real weak point.

I have tried the 3:1, but like KB said, it is slow and kind of a pain, but in trees where you have to go up and down, say 10 feet at a pop, it is handy.
 
Cary,

90% of the time, I will use the Pantin. I find it very fast and efficient. Many people have trouble keeping the Pantin engaged until things fall into place technique and adjustment-wise. If it is a very short rise, I will footlock the tail. If it is a very awkward position, I will use the 3:1 with my modified Petzl hand ascender that I can click on and use with one hand and remove and place back on my saddle with one hand.

There are always ways to overcome obstacles in movement.

Dave

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Swinging your heel backward is the movement for kicking the Pantin off. Lifting your knee upward helps to advance the rope through the Pantin, somewhat like stepping up onto a tall stair. Somewhat of an unusual motion until muscle memory kicks in.
 
What does RADS stand for? With SRT for a removal do you just anchor your line in the top of the tree and then retie every time you chunk a piece down? I know it's basically the same thing when you move the rope drt but I am having trouble thinking srt works in every situation.
 
If your climbing on spurs, it's great. Then you pretty much using your line as a hand rail or simply to tie in. A running bowline with a bite with a long tail is good so you don't have to climb all the way to your TIP to retrieve. Better option is Odis sisk's monkey tail setup.
 
RADS = Rapid Ascent/Descent System. (at least that is the acronym I know of)

Did I hear that a new RW is coming out? Should I wait, or how far off is it? Or am I asking for top secret info and before anyone has time to read this post it will have been deleted by a mod or one of kevin's evil accomplices out to make 80% of the gear I own obsete?

Sorry if it is the latter.

Jackson
 
of course I'm not going to tell you to wait. But, yes the hard working folks at Singing Tree Rope Tools are working diligently on designing and creating the ultimate piece of hardware the world has ever seen. However, If you get the ZK-1 today, it will have paid for itself by sometime next week, once you get past the learning curve.

I myself cannot imagine not having a rope wrench for even a week. A month climbing ddrt? Two months? oh my god that would be terrible. Doing the work climb at the couple of comps where SRT was not allowed was almost like being told I couldn't use a slack tending device or micro pulley.
 
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...I myself cannot imagine not having a rope wrench for even a week. A month climbing ddrt? Two months? oh my god that would be terrible. Doing the work climb at the couple of comps where SRT was not allowed was almost like being told I couldn't use a slack tending device or micro pulley.

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Though I don't use a Rope Wrench (I use a Uni) I can relate. I absolutely hate climbing DDRT now. DDRT limits what can be done, in a timely fashion, in the tree.
 
On removals I use a good ole friction saver. I girth an old steel ring from a throw bag with a small loop of throw line onto the end of my line and when I decend to my point I want to stop, I then pull the rope out through the friction saver to retrieve it. The throw bag ring catches and brings the FS to me. I can decend as far as I want and still get the fs back. The only issue is to not get hit in the face as its falling in your direction. I have started to do the same with the Teufelberger pulleySAVER by using the ball. On removals I rarely toss a line first as I have to climb up to set a pulley anyway. Initially up, set up, go down and then work up again. Do you still feel for as much up and down you can do on a removal, SRT is the best choice. Seems like more work to go up 5 or 10 feet than with drt. Maybe i'll just have to try it with the rite stuff and make my decision then. Hate to keep kicking a dead horse but I don't know any other climbers around me who work srt. Most of the guys 1 work with are lucky to work drt. They mostly work flip line-rt. I suppose thats why they kill me on pruning because nobody else climbs spikeless. Gotta love the day for hire guys I work with.
 
Put it this way who ever does not have a wrench in CT is losing big Time.


lot's of money to be had over here!
 
Been using my Rhino Wrench OH excuse me my Rope Wrench here at work and love it ... Thanks Tree Stuff !!
 

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I myself cannot imagine not having a rope wrench for even a week. A month climbing ddrt? Two months? oh my god that would be terrible. Doing the work climb at the couple of comps where SRT was not allowed was almost like being told I couldn't use a slack tending device or micro pulley.

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Well said. Been using my wrench for about 4 months and only ddrt my climbing line when doing crane work. I still utilize ddrt on the 5-10 foot climbs by using my 20 foot lanyard.
 
Has spar work been discussed already? Anyone using the Wrench on spar removals, and if so, how?

I haven't tried, and only idea I can come up with is tying a tether to the knotted side of the line to release the running bowline left at the top when you descend for your next cut.

Old hat? Anyone?
 

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