Roof job - FA Rope questions

[Woodwork]

Thanks, fellas. I appreciate the explanation.

I'm just using prusik loops. I need to K.I.S.S. because if there's a way to screw something up with complexity, I'll find it!

 

[Woodwork]

no, although as you say there is enough rope from anchor A to allow you to fall, the anchor B will prevent you from having that pendulum effect. Remember that in my senerio you are tied into both anchors at once. picture that you are working 15 feet horizontally from anchor A, should you slip you can fall in an arc until you are 15 feet directly under A. But if you are tied into A and B (lets just say the 15 feet horizontal of A puts you roughly 5 feet below B) then when you start to fall the rope tied to B will prevent you from falling in that arc pattern.

Let me know if that doesn't make sense, I can draw it out. Often times pictures are truly worth 1000s of words.

Thanks again, Jehinten. I think I get what you mean. That's an interesting idea I hadn't even considered. I'll have to draw it out and see what I think. Thank you.

ETA: I did a crude sketch and figured it out (might have made a mistake the first time, but when I revisited it, my answer was close to my first answer). It appears that if I did what you recommend, the worst that could happen (if I fell halfway between A and B), would be that I could fall a foot or a foot and a half beyond the eave, but the scaffolding would probably save me there.

 

[Jehinten]

Thanks again, Jehinten. I think I get what you mean. That's an interesting idea I hadn't even considered. I'll have to draw it out and see what I think. Thank you.

ETA: I did a crude sketch and figured it out (might have made a mistake the first time, but when I revisited it, my answer was close to my first answer). It appears that if I did what you recommend, the worst that could happen (if I fell halfway between A and B), would be that I could fall a foot or a foot and a half beyond the eave, but the scaffolding would probably save me there.

View attachment 59408

I think your getting what I'm saying, and not to beat a dead horse, but you shouldn't be able to fall straight down between point E and F if you have the slack out if the rope.

Feel free to set it up on the ground to see what I mean. Pick any two anchors and "work" between them with minimal rope slack. Anytime you are inline or between point A and B you should be secure. The "danger zone" of where a slip could happen is low on the roof outside of those anchor points. That's where you could pendulum across, now also take into account that you will likely be completing the first several feet of roofing from the scaffolding, this means you wont be working on rope near the bottom edge. Making it even less likely that you'd fall over the edge.

I've highlighted what I would believe is the only areas for you to worry about a pendulum swing taking you off of the roof. The distance from your anchor to any point above these areas will be shorter than the distance from the anchor to the roof edge.

 

[Woodwork]

Thank you, Jehinten.

 

[Woodwork]

Overhand on a bight (like what you use to pull tube or crotch protector up into tree) OK for stopper knot? Possibly with a biner thru the bight?

 

[Woodwork]

Still screwing around with this miserable job. Need to take down walk boards (2"x10"x12') halfway up slope on 12-pitch. Seems like it will have been easier to get them up than get them down. I don't remember it being too bad to get them up there, anyway. But I'm scratching my head on how to get the boards back down.

Since I can only get up the slope by pulling myself up static rope to roof anchor at ridge, and need a prusik loop to stay there, I'm thinking that to get boards down in a sane way, tie a rope at center of board, run that rope up to roof anchor at ridge (using its d-ring as pulley), back to a prusik loop on my climbing harness. Then move my "body" prusik loop down a foot on my static rope, then take a step down while belaying the board downward from prusik on my harness, lather rinse repeat until at eave, then transfer/throw board onto scaffolding.

Does that sound reasonable? (To just carry the board wouldn't leave me enough hands to move my prusik comfortably, and I don't want to tear up the new roof if I oopsie and drop the board on my toes.)

Now I wonder whether I should fasten myself to the static rope from the back of my harness, so I can face downhill while moving the board...otherwise it's gonna be tricky transferring it to the scaffolding...

Thanks again for all the help on this.

Jeff

Also -- will a 1/4" nylon braid prusik loop work on 1/2" or 3/4" 3-strand nylon (to belay the board)? I guess I should just test and see...

 

[Woodwork]

I'm thinking that to get boards down in a sane way, tie a rope at center of board, run that rope up to roof anchor at ridge (using its d-ring as pulley), back to a prusik loop on my climbing harness. Then move my "body" prusik loop down a foot on my static rope, then take a step down while belaying the board downward from prusik on my harness, lather rinse repeat until at eave, then transfer/throw board onto scaffolding.

Well, that's what I ended up doing, except I put an Alpine butterfly loop inline on my top rope, clipped a biner to that, and used that as my "pulley" for the rope holding the board. Felt a little strange and took some careful small-step moves, but I got the board down alive without scarring up the new roof too much...