Rock Climbing Rope

SoftBankHawks

SoftBankHawks

Branched out member
Location
Japan
I want a really stretchy and thin rope, obviously this points towrds rock rope. I will set it into a RADS with grigri or eddy. Pro's and Con's anybody?
 
I climb on a single line and usually with a trunk belay and with a Unicender. My unicender is in for repairs and I thought that I would play around with S T R E T C H Y and skinny ropes while I use the RADS as the grigri can take a thinner line. I know nothing about rock ropes and I wanted to know....
Thier melting points?
How they deal with being wet?
Can the covers take cams OK?
 
The stretch would be a hassle every time you unload the rope and settle back into it. Our ropes are for the most part under tension until you reposition and therefore you'd be readjusting.

Not sure what advantage there would be at all.
 
I'm all for stretch as I set my top anchor from the ground nearly every climb and there is a higher chance of something snapping above me as I start climbing.
For example, English Lime tree's have an absolute MASS of naturally occuring epicormic growth in the centre of the tree so it is hard to see let alone set the line well. One day my top point gave way and I dropped around six foot, (I climb on Tachyon)the line was trunk tied and the fall was comfortable. I was happily surprised.
I do not know what the advantage of dynamic rope would be either...yet...but I plan to find out.
I just need a few safety pointers to start me off.
 
Dynamic rope ain't all bad it's just not very efficient. It would be more interesting for rec climbing. I used an old rock rope to ascend SRT frog style for a while... it's great exercise.

I don't know new rock ropes but mountaineering rope is treated for use in water and ice. There has to be lots of 9mm dynamic ropes available, probably even 7mm and 8mm. They wouldn't comply at all with ANSI Z133 rules though, you'd be in research territory.

You are talking about rec climbing, right?
 
I guess in the UK the Z133 doesn't really matter much, eh? I should've noticed. I'm not the safety police type anyway.

I was always partial to Edelweiss. They have an 8.5mm edge resistant Everdry rope. Dynamic ropes are rated according to the number of falls they can safely sustain at a given impact force. I don't know how you would relate that to lifelines and breaking strength.
 
I was hoping for a translation of just that, I mean the number of falls to breaking strength, you know its just gotta be so tough, rubbing on granite and then taking a shock like they do.
I've been day dreaming about the ease of paying out a 8-9mm line through the grigri while moving around the crown.

you know those crazy old folks used to climb on 3 strand...if we were to break the virtues of that down....!
 
I just found some old data (1980) in Wilderness Search and Rescue by Setnicka.

Both Dacron and Nylon 11mm kernmantle ropes rated about the same in static breaking strength at 22.2Kn; 13mm at 26.5Kn. Both were 6 fall ropes. That's old data but the ropes were modern construction with polyester materials.

Body weight elongation of 2-5% is unlikely to strain a 6 fall rope at all since a leader fall can result in 40-70% elongation.

I'm starting to think heat may be the bigger enemy. Nylon is easy to melt.
 
The heat thing. I've certainly melted my fair share of nylon loop runners while rigging, dont fancy melting my life line but as you say ....a leader fall can result in 40% - 70% elongation....which no doubt is running with a tight bend radius over a snap krab. I'll be using the grigri and not a rope hitch so....?
What is Dacron? High stretch and low melting point too I suppose.
Thanks for the thoughts Blinky.
 
Using true dynamic rope for tree climbing would work but the stretch would be noticeable. There are tree-ropes that have good dynamic characteristics and would absorb a lot of energy.

Since HSE sets standards you should find a rope that meets those standards.

If you use a trunk wrap anchor for SRT you'll have a lot of rope in your system to absorb a fall. You should be able to count on your ascent system to slip just a little too.

Paolo would be a good person to talk to about suitable ropes for SRT.

In one point of developing my SRT system I incorporated a Yates Screamer. After checking on the loads that would be needed to deploy the Screamer I realized that my climbing rope would stretch and absorb enough of the load so I took it out.
 
I think My lead line has close to 18% elongation.....no good for tree work. They are meant to take the "whip" on.

Rock ropes are better designed for cams anywho......wet wont matter. "dry" treated ropes are more for ice climbing where water would freeze the rope into cable
 
Interesting thread,

I've long contemplated building a screamer into my saddle or line. But I still like the idea because I think it would greatly reduce shock in a 6'-8' factor 1 fall. I figure this is my most likely scenario. Falling on my tip after standing on it.

One heads up, I've had very little luck with the grigri on small lines. I would switch to a cinch for anything under a 9.5. I have a 9.4 that experienced friends assure me it works on, but its a bit spooky.
 
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