Rigging Gear purchase

ATEC15

ATEC15

Location
Hawaii
So I'm looking to purchase my very first rigging setup in the near future. I would like to get the dmm impact block(5/8") and also the medium port a wrap(5/8"). I know by purchasing the 5/8" impact block, I will have to use a rigging line that's 5/8" or less, but what size can my whoppie, loopie, or dead eye sling be? I've searched online at treestuff and wesspur...if everything in this setup will be 5/8", then every piece of rope will be the color red, which is odd. I don't know why they would make all 5/8" rope/slings red. I'd rather have assorted colors to label which rope goes with the block and which one goes with the port a wrap(the color is not a big deal though). Also would you recommend a whoppie, loopie, or dead eye sling over the other? I was thinking about just purchasing 2 eye slings over the "oopies" being that you have to literally tie an cows/timber hitch to lock it down rather than girt hitching with the "oopies". Any thoughts?
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On the block, the anchor sling (top sheave on block) can be up to 3/4. The bottom sheave for the working (rope) end is max 5/8. The anchor sling on the block should also theoretically see close to double the load that the anchor sling for the porty sees. So your block anchor sling should be a size up in diameter from your porty sling. Porty slings are also typically much longer as well. Hope this helps
 
N.e.Tree said:
On the block, the anchor sling (top sheave on block) can be up to 3/4. The bottom sheave for the working (rope) end is max 5/8. The anchor sling on the block should also theoretically see close to double the load that the anchor sling for the porty sees. So your block anchor sling should be a size up in diameter from your porty sling. Porty slings are also typically much longer as well. Hope this helps
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So I should purchase a 3/4" dead eye sling for the block, a 5/8" dead eye sling for the port a wrap, and either a 9/16" or 5/8" rigging line....correct?
 
If you don't have much rigging experience, I think you should start off with some 1/2in rigging line such as true blue, poly, or stable braid. The rope should always be the weakest link.

9/16 is pretty close to most 1/2 lines, just heavier and you don't need it most of the time.

5/8 is rarely necessary, unless you work on huge oaks a lot. And HEAVY

But IMO for you first purchase, I would go with Samson true blue, 200ft. A very forgiving and well wearing line for anything you come across.
 
Wouldn't it be better/safer going with 5/8"....knowing that if it can handle huge oaks, then it should handle anything else I come across with. I don't want to buy a 1/2" setup and later get in to bigger rigging situations which will need bigger diameter ropes. I figured just spend the money with the bigs
 
You will rarely use the 5/8. Trust me. If
You buy the 5/8 first, you'll end up buying a 1/2 shortly after. You'll be amazed at how much you can do with 1/2 rope.

Personally I've never ran into anything where I needed 5/8, however I have coiled a 200ft 5/8 rope before. I don't wish that upon anyone to do after a long day of working.
 
So basically I should get the same products as mentioned above but have the rigging line be 1/2"?

3/4" dead eye for block
5/8" dead eye for port a wrap
1/2" rigging line
 
Correct. If you ever find a job that requires a 5/8 line when bidding, it'll more than pay for the rope when you need to buy it. But I don't foresee that happening anytime soon. If you want a rope that is a bit stronger than true blue, Yale polydyne is great from what I hear, just a bit pricier. I have no personal experience with it, however.
 
I have stable braid, it's a good rope, however I don't think it's the best all around first rope. If I could only have one rigging rope to start with, I would take either true blue or polydyne. Heres why:

Stable braid has little stretch. Static ropes are bad for negative rigging, they don't elongate much to absorb the impact. The other two ropes are much better at absorbing impact, and most rigging ropes see impact of some sort.

This being said, stable braid definitely has its niche, such as when you have a tight drop, or need to do some lifting, or pulling trees, etc.
 
If you're tight on budget you might not need the DMM block, those are pretty pricey. My boss has the cmi 5/8 block and I was impressed with it.

Personally I'm waiting on the sherill safe bloc to start shipping, I really like the idea of aerial friction reducing the force put on the spar. Really cool concept imo, eliminate the porty all together for most rigging.
 
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