Rigging block sizing and slings

[RajElectric]

+1 on the 1/2 inch rope, it can do a lot of work, especially running through a pulley. Don't count yourself out of buying some tenex and making your own slings, there's great instructions, advice and people who like to help.

Knotless is nice, but IMHO being able to tie working knots is essential.

 

[TreeLogic]

That will depend on the size of the trees you typically do, but I always like to have a 200 footer on hand. With a 150' line you're limiting yourself to approximately 65 foot working height more or less by the time you tie your rigging knots on one end and feed through the portawrap on the other.

X2. And when you have only enough rigging line to go up through the block and back down to the ground, there's a much higher potential for the rigging line to go zipping up through the block when the groundie unties it. Of course I'd imagine some X Rigging Rings might help with that problem.

 

[Mark13y]

Bump it up a couple hundred and get the DMM impact block...its shineyer or get a custom sling with dual beast XRR's on the end.

180' would be my minimum on my primary rigging line with redirects and what not.

 

[MikePowers321]

200 footer I think is the way to go. You might use that rope in long speed lines or to pull trees over as well. I think I would only dabble in the 150' range for thicker ropes, usually rigging down spars.

 

[JeffGu]

I've read that if the blocks too big it flattens out the rope.

That seems to be true when you jump more than one size. I've found the 5/8" rope works well in a 3/4" block, and the 1/2" rope works well in a 5/8" block, but the 1/2" rope definately flattens out a bit in the 3/4" block.

 

[TreeLogic]

I think the original block you mentioned, the 5/8 small ISC, would still be a good choice.

Can't speak for the DMM (though they're obviously very nice) but I've been very happy with my 5/8 ISC.

 

[JontreeHI]

X3 on the dead eye slings, after loaded loopies and whoopies are hard to break and IMO way more a pain than just tying cow hitches. A co worker of mine commented that bosses really like knot less, but employees tend to prefer knots.

 

[Leroy]

bosses really like knot less, but employees tend to prefer knots.

Yep

 

[Boomslang]

Bosses only like knotless because it's easier to pull some tweaked out meth head off the street and train them in 5 minutes.

 

[TreeLogic]

Bosses only like knotless because it's easier to pull some tweaked out meth head off the street and train them in 5 minutes.

Yeah, there's that. But I also like having a limb girthed and ready to go when the the rigging line gets back up to me.

 

[Leroy]

Bosses only like knotless because it's easier to pull some tweaked out meth head off the street and train them in 5 minutes.

I have a five minute meth head training program in place for my dog leash company, it's working great so far.

 

[TreeLogic]

I have a five minute meth head training program in place for my dog leash company, it's working great so far.

Please make sure they only do dog leashes and not lanyards or climbing lines

 

[monkeylove]

Hey there's a rabbit. Sorry I get distracted easily.

 

[Leroy]

Please make sure they only do dog leashes and not lanyards or climbing lines

There's talk of big cats and alligators too. We'll see if Jon's really got the skills

 

[JTree]

If you haven't made your purchases already, I'd recommend the following:
5/8 block (your choice on brand and make)
5/8 tenex (splice your own slings)
1/2 or 9/16 line (you are looking to work pine, so everything is going to be lighter than it looks)
Either a porty or splurge for a stien rc 2000

Keep the pieces on the small side on the spar. Pines are pretty tall, so go 200+ on the rigging line. Consider a tag line if the landing zone is small.

That's what I usually take to a pine site. If you want more versatility, use 3/4 for the porty/stein. That way when you are ready to start doing larger portions of spar, you can just upgrade the rope, block, and block sling.

 

[JTree]

Oh, and Whoopie on the ground, dead eye in the tree. Idk if I'm the only one, but I actually find it faster to tie in the tree than deal with all that extra sling in an adjustable.

If you are wanting to speed things up, as soon as the load hits the ground, yard up the other end and get to tying. You can still wait on ground ops sometimes that way.

Also, consider a whistle around your neck or on your harness/suspenders. I get tired of yelling all day from the tops of tall pines. One day I will be able to afford helmet radios, but today ain't the day.

 

[JTree]

'Course I'll be the first to say that I too am green as grass compared to these other cats. I had to teach myself to rig (meaning I learned from books and this forum....thanks y'all). I'm still not comfortable with huge pieces. Big, yes, huge, no.

 

[theXman]

(I'm NOT referring to any particular post, just almost all of them on rigging rope size and hardware). Have any of you ever broken a rigging rope at work? I have not, 21 years in tree service business and I have never broken a rigging rope during work. In my mind, that is the way to be. Don't be cheap and don't complain about rope weight. Also, make your slings the strongest in the system; like you originally thought.

 

[JeffGu]

Also, make your slings the strongest in the system; like you originally thought.

I'm a firm believer in the system strength going top down... toughest, strongest at the TIP and anything weaker further down the line, closer to the ground. If it's gotta break, I'd rather the shit didn't fall any further than necessary. But then, I take a 1/4" or 3/8" haul line and a pulley up with me when I climb to set anchors, and just pull up what I need or even have a ground crew member pull it up for me, if it's heavy. Safer for them to do it, usually. I don't care that much what the stuff weighs, if I need to move the TIP, it's not like I've got to haul it all the way across town, or something. If it's a heavy setup, I just hook it to my little haul line, lower it to the ground, move to the new TIP and pull it back up. It ain't rocket science, and it might take a couple of minutes longer, but it's safer and easier than trying to load my harness up with the stuff and trudging around in the tree like an overloaded pack mule.

Wait a minute... did I just agree with theXman about something? Oh, crap.

 

[JTree]

I feel ya and I agree. 1 size up on slings seems appropriate, and a shorter life span on slings than rope (without a fail inspection/damage to rope, of course). I've never broken a rope, either. Never broken a sling. Never broken a single piece of rigging gear really. If I have doubts I go overkill on gear size. Might be goofy looking, but I don't want to be "that guy who..."