retracting reels

Tree-Taylor · Apr 12, 2018

treebing said:
none of the ascenders I have tried take any where near two lbs. its usually more an issue of working it past harness jumble and bridge dangle etc and clothes and mess leaves and twigs in the path that it needs to have the oomph to push through. stronger also does not mean faster.

I was actually thinking about this today. I wonder if the best spot for the reel would be located on the ascender side. That way the slack is being fed directly into the reel instead of dragging along clothes and gear.

Strength + Velocity

treebing · Apr 12, 2018

It could be. I found it to bang around a lot , and was not and not be as protected mounted on the ascender. that was my first try. I just used zip ties though and felt that it was going to fall apart.

MikePowers321 · Apr 12, 2018

But if an ascender was specifically designed to have a strong reel built in on the backside, specifically for this application, could be sweet

treebing · Apr 12, 2018

agreed

Santiago Casanova · Apr 13, 2018

MikePowers321 said:
But if an ascender was specifically designed to have a strong reel built in on the backside, specifically for this application, could be sweet

Quick, I smell a patent.

treebing · Apr 13, 2018

the reel would then have to pick its own weight up. which would counteract some benefits.

MikePowers321 · Apr 13, 2018

Be cool to use one of these cam cleats as an ascender. 2.5oz, 300 lb. swl, up to 1/2" rope. I have been looking at smaller versions to use for 2-3mm throwline. Probably wouldn't work too well for this application tho

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Harken-150...ash=item25f32fd25e:g:DHEAAOSwRLZUFMZE&vxp=mtr

evo · Apr 13, 2018

Didn’t Yo-yo go build a custom prototype reel version of the SAKA? I though he was looking into having custom fabbed units. This was about the same time when he had custome ascenders made for the SAKA. I guess something got culled durning the R&D phase. I assumed that it was a design not only to improve but to differentiate from the haas

treebing · Apr 13, 2018

someone told me there was a video on that and I have been searching high and low for it. I imagine it would be a great product.

treebing · Apr 13, 2018

MikePowers321 said:
Be cool to use one of these cam cleats as an ascender. 2.5oz, 300 lb. swl, up to 1/2" rope. I have been looking at smaller versions to use for 2-3mm throwline. Probably wouldn't work too well for this application tho

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Harken-150...ash=item25f32fd25e:g:DHEAAOSwRLZUFMZE&vxp=mtr

you will be very happy in a few months

MikePowers321 · Apr 13, 2018

treebing said:
you will be very happy in a few months

Really?! Good for you kevin.

treebing · Apr 13, 2018

not much to do with me.

treebing · Apr 13, 2018

this "bridle" string from the kite store is the best. its an abrasion resistant sheath and a spectra core. stiff and tough. its what they use at the kite itself. spectra alone self abrades especially in knots and drastically loses strength. this stuff is just a hair more in diameter than the stainless cable. runs very smooth. really hard to ✂

DSMc · Apr 13, 2018

treebing said:
There was some discussion in the other threads regarding the knee ascender and using a retracting reel. I definitely think it is the way to go at this point...

I have been reading this thread, trying to understand exactly what the advantage is with this. It has replaced the bungee, I get that, but it is also just like the older style knee ascenders in all other respects. Technically speaking they worked great for going up. But they were too delicate to leave on after the climb because they would snag on everything. For tree work, it is almost never, up once and done, so that means taking it on and off many times as you need it.
The two things I like about the HAAS Velox is that it can be left in place for long periods of work for quick reattachment as needed without snagging anything and when it is taken off, it does not need an extra storage bag but can instead be quickly hung from your saddle.
So, what am I missing?

Brocky · Apr 13, 2018

Having the knee ascender loosely attached to the leg, or made to be easily attached, would allow it to remain in place after unclipping the reel. If you wanted to take off the knee ascender and footloop, there's much less to store on the harness.

treebing · Apr 13, 2018

the whole thing fits in my pocket. 64 grams total. I find myself just leaving it on.

treebing · Apr 13, 2018

Dave, the question was raised in another thread whether or not a retracting reel would work. I figured that question deserved its own thread to find answers to exactly what your asking. The Haas works excellently at the job. I don't think this is meant to be a bash on the bungee cord. that is has been time tested and proven. It is an explore retracting reels thread. one way or another they are fascinating little tools with multiple applications.

treegongfu · Apr 13, 2018

I did a quick experiment with a reel that is to big and requires to much force to extract.

The thing I liked about it was that, unlike with a bungee, the force was constant. It didn't increase as I stretched my leg.

treebing · Apr 13, 2018

I got the gear keeper in today. way too strong, way to short a draw. amazing strength though. very light and compact too.

Brocky · Apr 13, 2018

@treebing what size of the harness line did you get? There is a choice of 100lb or 140 lb.

There was earlier discussion about the cable, or bungee rubbing against your harness, or needing to stay out of the way of the bridge, or lanyard. Using snaps strategically sewn to your harness, could route the cords to work better. They're small and midline attachable.