Proximity to the lowering device

Ding ding ding... we have a winner,, an apparently only one....

standing close to the porty allows so much more control when needing to let the piece run.

If you stand 20-30 feet back you can actually take a wrap off because there is so much more drag on the rope. though I never figured out exactly why.. seems like it shouldn't matter that much, BUT IT DOES....

Anybody that says different doesn't know. And that seems to be the majority here.. about as much knowledge as the clowns on facebook... on the bright side, this is one of the very few times that evo and I are on the same side of an issue.

I generally keep the porty on the back of the bucket truck and use a mid level redirect set in the tree at 10-30' to keep from side loading while allowing the ground crew free movement around the tree. Rope man can stand right next to the porty and be well out of danger and not have to crank his neck to look straight up all day...

If the LD is set on the tree, I'll try to set up a rigging point with multiple blocks or a satellite rigging point to make sure the wood is coming down on the other well away from the LD. pretty simple
rope weight silly...
 
I'm comfortable running ropes anywhere from 6-20 feet from the bollard, basically standing wherever gives me the best visual of the climber/bucket operator, the piece being cut and a shadow to keep the sun out of my eyes.


I'm much more leary of being in the drop zone than close to the bollard, as I will release the rope if I cannot control it. Property isn't worth an injury. I'll add to that, that my favorite lowering device is the bollard on my bmg. I can park it anywhere out of the drop zone and often will not redirect over to it. If we are rigging heavy enough that the rope coming out at an angle could cause a failure, then we are choosing a strong enough rigging point to handle it. There's too many options to choose a weak anchor and then rig big off of it.


In correlation with this thread, just last week removing a silver maple. I was negative rigging wood on a leaning trunk. The wraps on the Porta wrap was misjudged and the ground guy got pulled forward, almost into the path of the swinging log. Should have just let go of the rope, we were only protecting grass. Luckily there wasn't any injuries.
 
Seems like standing 20-30 feet back with one less wrap gives the exact same control.

As for why it makes a difference, it's because of the rope weight adding extra holding friction on your side of the bollard. Similar how on a long pull, you start to get some pull before the rope is tight.
Seriously. Learn to gauge needed wraps from a safe distance. Lots of good reasons to not stand close to the PortOWrap when $hit is dropping.
 
Like @southsoundtree sentiment, calibration is important here. This is not a one size fits all thing either, but I er on the side of safety and space (for either myself, or device operator). Also, I prefer the RC style drums over the “port a wrap” I think it’s easier to dial in finite friction, and better for lower weight material. A struck by would not be good, nor would a degloved or crushed hand be from entering the device.
 
I like communicating how many wraps to my groundie. It saves a lot of drama. “Hold by hand, half wrap, full wrap, two wraps, three wraps”
But then you gotta wait for that....I def agree with you to do this when the rope man is not experienced or you haven't worked with them much. But a good combo is when you tie it on and move to the cut and look down and he's ready...simple head nod from him and send it
 
Mind the surface that the roper is standing on.

I surfed across wet grass one time a good distance, as my boss decided to start with good-sized pieces without starting with a smaller one to calibrate wrapping/ hold-back.
If and whenever possible I always take a half or full wrap less than expected, but find a near by tree and take a 1/4 turn around it. It’s more than enough to calibrate on the fly but not so much extra you have to worry about burning the bark or rope.
 
Would stand ready to take wraps external to Porty, on trees etc..
Part of reason for some lead between 'tailer man'(capstan) and Porty.
Sometimes start there and back off extra frictions after /during fist hit.
Let the metal take the brunt, be a heatsink and added bark frictions the just trim the left overs.
Great time to be wearing leather gloves.
 
But then you gotta wait for that....I def agree with you to do this when the rope man is not experienced or you haven't worked with them much. But a good combo is when you tie it on and move to the cut and look down and he's ready...simple head nod from him and send it
Comm units, no waiting.
 
When I was on the ground and roping a lot there was no communication and head nod BS. If you weren't ready and something went wrong it's all your fault. You would still definitely hear about to!
 

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