Proper Pollarding or ?????????
- Thread starter Eric_E
- Start date
guymayor
Branched out member
- Location
- East US, Earth
Callus knobs look plump and strong.
- Location
- Netherlands
The trees Nathan posted look like London Plane to me. They are very good as pollard to and in France/belgium you see um a lot pollarded. Ill try to make some pics of willows, poplars, ash trees pollarded we have in our region.
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I always find that if I bring this kind of thing up at work everyone has something to say about it. Don't know how creditable the guys are but they sure do have a different take on nearly every topic.
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I was just wondering if we might be at the same company, your description sounds familar.
What part of the globe do you come from?
I always find that if I bring this kind of thing up at work everyone has something to say about it. Don't know how creditable the guys are but they sure do have a different take on nearly every topic.
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I was just wondering if we might be at the same company, your description sounds familar.
What part of the globe do you come from?
Guys,
lets call it like it is. Topping. OK. We all know topping is the sure sign of someone who either wants to make a quick buck regardless of the tree's future, or someone who just doesnt know any better. I dont mean to insult anyone who may find this insulting. Please, dont take it that way. But, go ahead and dig into some ISA literature or seminars, or TCIA literature or seminars and you'll find that "pollarding/topping" isnt even being discussed. Also, mention "pollarding/topping" to a true doctor of trees, such as someone with a PhD in arborculture, tree pathology, horticulture, or urban forestry, and watch how they frown. We as arborists need to know better than to be doing that crap.
lets call it like it is. Topping. OK. We all know topping is the sure sign of someone who either wants to make a quick buck regardless of the tree's future, or someone who just doesnt know any better. I dont mean to insult anyone who may find this insulting. Please, dont take it that way. But, go ahead and dig into some ISA literature or seminars, or TCIA literature or seminars and you'll find that "pollarding/topping" isnt even being discussed. Also, mention "pollarding/topping" to a true doctor of trees, such as someone with a PhD in arborculture, tree pathology, horticulture, or urban forestry, and watch how they frown. We as arborists need to know better than to be doing that crap.
Tucker943 welcome to Treebuzz.
The difference between topping and pollarding is a small but very important one and that is the area of the branch that is cut. Pollarding being the better of the two as it takes into account the future growing trends / pattern of the tree. Pollarding reduces the amount of dead wood after the pruning cut by cutting just above the bud. Pollarding is just one technique that arborists have to manage trees. If pollarding is done on the right species at the right time and in the correct location pollards can maintain the tree at a desirable height and size for centuries. This has been proved and can be seen in Europe on many street trees. I agree that it would not be my first management tool if I had my choice, but if managed correctly pollarding can work in some situations.
The difference between topping and pollarding is a small but very important one and that is the area of the branch that is cut. Pollarding being the better of the two as it takes into account the future growing trends / pattern of the tree. Pollarding reduces the amount of dead wood after the pruning cut by cutting just above the bud. Pollarding is just one technique that arborists have to manage trees. If pollarding is done on the right species at the right time and in the correct location pollards can maintain the tree at a desirable height and size for centuries. This has been proved and can be seen in Europe on many street trees. I agree that it would not be my first management tool if I had my choice, but if managed correctly pollarding can work in some situations.
- Location
- Home of the New Jersey Devils
I believe there is a difference. One easy one is that pollarding fits into "topiary" and topping would not. Dr. Ed Gilman will also tell you that topping gets worse with larger cuts. A 2" dia or less cut will have far less negative effects on a tree than a 4" or larger.
- Location
- Madison, Wi
Pollarding is where you hit the correct "targets"for pruning topping is indiscriminate, Topping can also cause massive quantities of decay, pollarding if done correctly does not.
- Location
- Netherlands
- Location
- Netherlands
- Location
- Netherlands
- Location
- Netherlands
- Location
- Seattle, WA
For some excellent examples of proper and improper pollarding see Shigo's book "Tree Pruning" and Harris Clark $ Matheny "Arboriculture", also Cass Turnbulls "Guide to Pruning" - this book has great information that many pruners are blissfully unaware of.
IMO pollarding is not topping and is a legitimate method of maintaining trees that has been around for centuries. It's uncommon to see well maintained pollards in the US but they are out there.
Trees pruned to pollards must be started as young trees. Every year to three years when you cut the shoots off take care not to injure the pollard head.
Scott
IMO pollarding is not topping and is a legitimate method of maintaining trees that has been around for centuries. It's uncommon to see well maintained pollards in the US but they are out there.
Trees pruned to pollards must be started as young trees. Every year to three years when you cut the shoots off take care not to injure the pollard head.
Scott
- Location
- Netherlands
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Trees pruned to pollards must be started as young trees. Every year to three years when you cut the shoots off take care not to injure the pollard head.
Scott
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I second that those trees must start young. Here pollards started before 15-20 years after planting a tree will work, most pollards are simply made by 10 feet long branches cut in autum, put with the feet in a creeck or pond during winter and planted in spring. Pruning seems best every 6-8 years. Within that time some thinning the pollard every second year. That 6-8 years should also be the point were its most efficient to do in labor and for the environment (in fuel/energy consumption for the labor).
Trees pruned to pollards must be started as young trees. Every year to three years when you cut the shoots off take care not to injure the pollard head.
Scott
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I second that those trees must start young. Here pollards started before 15-20 years after planting a tree will work, most pollards are simply made by 10 feet long branches cut in autum, put with the feet in a creeck or pond during winter and planted in spring. Pruning seems best every 6-8 years. Within that time some thinning the pollard every second year. That 6-8 years should also be the point were its most efficient to do in labor and for the environment (in fuel/energy consumption for the labor).
That's a nice bay foundation bred is it? I really like the old bull dog build.
I found myself doing some really nice topping here in NJ. I never got to do that sorta thing back PA we knew better. I found that the stick saw made quick work of it and then I just went in and made some really nice chainsaw cuts to clean it all up real perty like. I would have used a hand saw and pole clip but we don't have any of those fancy pruning tools on our crew. Christmas only comes but once a year.
I found myself doing some really nice topping here in NJ. I never got to do that sorta thing back PA we knew better. I found that the stick saw made quick work of it and then I just went in and made some really nice chainsaw cuts to clean it all up real perty like. I would have used a hand saw and pole clip but we don't have any of those fancy pruning tools on our crew. Christmas only comes but once a year.
