Problem with Tree Motion quick release waist buckle solved

[moss]

I've had a continuing problem with the quick release waist buckle on my TM, it slowly loosens while I'm climbing and it can't be tightened very easily when I'm on rope, has to be unbuckled to tighten up. I would sew the tail of the waist strap down except it needs to be adjustable when I wear layers in cool weather.

I finally became fed up and replaced the buckle with a simple sliding bar buckle, same type as used on New Tribe harness waist closures for many years.

I've been climbing on it and it is freakin' awesome. I can tighten it up while I'm hanging on rope feet off the tree and the harness feels like it's part of my body, what a difference. I didn't completely realize what I was putting up with until now. The TM Super Light waist belt system is excellent but doesn't open up all the way, actually not a problem for me, if I had to do it all over again I'd buy the TM S Light.

I've got 1.5" of webbing overlap holding the buckle which is lock-stitched using 70 lb. waxed nylon thread following a life support quality webbing stitching pattern recommended in high-angle guidelines I've looked at.

The webbing tail is tucked back through the buckle as a backup and to prevent slipping say for example if the buckle had hard contact against a limb.

-AJ

 

[moss]

Probably the most challenging part of the project was removing the single bar tack which held the stock buckle in place. Had to be careful work to avoid damaging the webbing.
-AJ

 

[TJG]

I have the same saddle my problem is just the opposite I can't get the thing to loosen or tighten without a battle. Where did you get the thread I was looking around for black tread like that.
Ted

 

[moss]

I have the same saddle my problem is just the opposite I can't get the thing to loosen or tighten without a battle. Where did you get the thread I was looking around for black tread like that.
Ted

It's a trick you'll figure out, work the webbing from one side or the other to loosen up a little slack at the buckle. When you reset it pin the side you don't want to move by angling it against the buckle with your thumb as you pull the other side tight. If that makes sense.

I don't recommend doing the mod unless you have strong life support sewing experience. I'm presenting it as a prototype solution and ultimately hoping that Teufelberger will improve it.

I'll dig up the thread spec, it's useful stuff. I did a bunch of sewing projects for years on non life-support gear like footloops etc. and then observed what held up well and what didn't under heavy loading and general tree climbing abuse.
-AJ

 

[moss]

I have the same saddle my problem is just the opposite I can't get the thing to loosen or tighten without a battle.

Here's how I adjusted the waist belt tightness on the stock buckle, work a loop up from one side, then bend the webbing tight and pin down with my thumb. This holds the new adjustment in place while I pulled the slack out on the other side:

 

[TJG]

Thanks that looks like it will work. I wasn't thinking of doing the mod. I have allot of webbing in a roll was going to try to make some slings. I would way over load one before using them. or send one to Tee Stuff for a break test. Will that thread work a regular sewing machine or is it hand stitched?
Ted

 

[moss]

Thanks that looks like it will work. I wasn't thinking of doing the mod. I have allot of webbing in a roll was going to try to make some slings. I would way over load one before using them. or send one to Tee Stuff for a break test. Will that thread work a regular sewing machine or is it hand stitched?
Ted

Here's a link for 415 waxed polyester thread thx to Buzzer "gmcttr" in the "Documenting my sewn eye process" discussion in the splicing forum:
http://www.thethreadexchange.com/mi...ode=TTE&Category_Code=WAX415#product-selected

415 weight thread will not work in a normal sewing machine. And waxed thread will not work in any sewing machine industrial or otherwise. Yeah, you'll ruin a good sewing machine fast trying to sew webbing, been there done that.
-AJ

 

[moss]

Thanks that looks like it will work. I wasn't thinking of doing the mod. I have allot of webbing in a roll was going to try to make some slings. I would way over load one before using them. or send one to Tee Stuff for a break test. Will that thread work a regular sewing machine or is it hand stitched?
Ted

No, 451 weight thread will wreck a home sewing machine of any quality, been there done that, it only took a couple of minutes to create a nice door stop out of my machine. Waxed thread can't be used in any sewing machine industrial or otherwise as far as I know.

Look up life support hand sewing patterns for webbing, caving people have some of the best documentation of the techniques and testing. Consider using the Beer Knot for making slings https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beer_knot
-AJ

 

[TJG]

I don't think my webbing is hollow I will have to dig it out and look at it there is always the water knot. Thanks for the links I found some U-Tube vids that were interesting from that Wiki page.
Ted

 

[DSMc]

...I don't recommend doing the mod unless you have strong life support sewing experience....

Andrew, do you think it really is necessary that the waist belt buckle strap needs a life support rating? With any of the approved rings loaded there is no load on that buckle or strap. If there were, they never would have gotten that style of buckle approved in the first place.

Nice fix by the way.

 

[moss]

Andrew, do you think it really is necessary that the waist belt buckle strap needs a life support rating? With any of the approved rings loaded there is no load on that buckle or strap. If there were, they never would have gotten that style of buckle approved in the first place.

Nice fix by the way.

Good point, you want it pretty strong though. Just being cautious when I say people should have sewing experience with this sort of thing. The TM mod shouldn't be a first-timer sewing project ;-)

You'll notice that when you sit back in a typical bridge style harness that the waist belt in front usually slacks a little, the climber load is on the back of the belt and leg straps. The waist belt strap in front just keeps the harness from falling off you when the rope is slack and you're standing on a limb or walking around on the ground.

On the TM harness you'll also notice that the webbing strap that supports the bridge hardware has two bar tacks per side compared to only one bar tack on the waist buckle. Clearly the bridge is taking much more load and needs a higher strength rating.
-AJ