Prevent the fumbles

[opposablethumb]

I've been trying to work on a procedure for a smooth transition from secured footlock to DdRT in the tree. I'm always worried a biner, split tail, or pulley is going to go careening down to the ground as I'm trying to get setup.

Here's what I've come up with. Not genius, but it might be helpful to someone, or someone might have some helpful criticism. Hope all my rope terms are right???

1 - Isolate crotch and install climbing line in tree
2 - Attach Hitchclimber pulley to running end; clip biner into top or middle hole of pulley; clip biner to splice on working end
3 - TDS footlocking prusik, clip to 2nd biner on bridge and ascend to target spot in tree; tie in with lanyard
4 - Pull down on standing part to pull biner and HC pulley up to you; pull out any slack in the standing part that hasn't already run itself out; attach running end to saddle (I midline clove hitch it to caritool) to keep the biner and HC pulley from being pulled up out of reach by the weight of the running end
5 - Unclip footlocking prusik from biner on bridge, untie and store
5 - TDS friction hitch and clip into 2nd biner and HC pulley.
Note - The 2nd biner never has to come detached from bridge. My DMM ultra O can rotate all the way through my bridge ring (the biner gate fits through the ring) so that I can flip it upside down after I've clipped in my friction hitch.
6 - Untie running end from saddle and go to work

This way, the only thing that comes detached from the saddle at any time is your friction hitch cord, which seems to be the least fumblable thing in my kit.

Like I said - not rocket science, but it works for me.

 

[TimberJack]

I just leave my hich climber all set up on the one end of my line with hitch tied. Put the chain saw on the terminating krab. then foot lock to destination on prusic. Pull chain saw up set Ddrt system. Untie and store foot locking prusic then work the tree.

 

[Coconut]

I started tieing my VT to one leg while still on the ground. Pull it up and clip in it saves time and no way to drop any thing.

 

[classictruckman]

Here's a thought, what if you tie your VT and clip it into the hitchclimber on the running leg, TDS your FL loop below the VT but on both legs, clip your chainsaw on the working end, footlock up, remove your FL loop, then pull th slack through the VT until your saw and working end are ready to clip to your saddle.

the only concern I have is that the friction on the working side might burn a bit on the VT because the FL loop will be holding both sides together.

I don't know I've never tried it.

 

[GibsonTreeCare]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jiZIIm5a-WI

or try this

 

[classictruckman]

How do you retrieve that system after you have decended from it?

 

[Jeff_Cochran]

there is only one alpine butterfly

 

[opposablethumb]

I've never used a secret weapon, but that'd definitely solve it for me...

Right now, I'm typically using one rope as both an access line and a working line, so I'm trying to figure out a smooth changeover in that scenario...

cheers

 

[Worthaug]

[ QUOTE ]
How do you retrieve that system after you have decended from it?

[/ QUOTE ]

I am curious too. I would assume you would descend on the OP secret weapon, down the doubled rope not with the Ddrt system.

 

[opposablethumb]

Check out Tony's setup on this thread .

His post is partway down the page and has an attachment with pictures/explanations that would seem to apply in this situation.

 

[Worthaug]

Different set up but I like the way Tony thinks

 

[opposablethumb]

Ah yes...As I was unloading the dishwasher it struck me that I was way off. You beat me to replying before I could delete my post! Oh well...consider it deleted.

And it's a cool setup that Tony has anyway...

 

[GibsonTreeCare]

You just descend on the SW like you would a normal DRT system.

or you could put in an "8" and back it up with the SW

 

[GibsonTreeCare]

[ QUOTE ]
there is only one alpine butterfly

[/ QUOTE ]

yeah, it was there to show where you would do it, but it was too cold at -34 to tie it with 2 legs, the rope was too stiff

but I purposely slid and did quick stops a few times closer to ground level and the SW does not budge at all.

Doing that meant footlcoking back up to it, but that was okay for testing purposes

 

[classictruckman]

so you have to go back up and retrieve the DdRT before you can decend on the DRT?

 

[GibsonTreeCare]

pretty much, that is why i personally would not use it unless I wasn't working too far from where the SW was locked on.

where the SW shines is using SRT to ascend, the switching over to DdRT off of the SW at any point in the ascent, the you can descend on your DdRT, and pull the SRT line out easily from the ground.