Portawrap minimun wrap, add'l wrap nomenclature

southsoundtree

Been here much more than a while
Location
Olympia, WA
How do you describe the various amounts of wraps?

Re-direct sling on the top of the POW for minimum friction...poor pic.
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We work on very uneven ground so preventing losing a 1/2 wrap over a fairlead where the rope does a partial 180⁰ around the POW top, ring instead of the barrel, lockup action is extra important. The roper may be uphill, downhill, or horizontal to the POW.

I expect floppy POW are a leading cause of fouling or unintentionally loss of wraps. A $3, multipurpose ratchet strap works great.



P.S. Ignore the 9/16" stable braid in that size POW. It's just my small Rig-and-Rig, that was handy.
 
How do you describe the various amounts of wraps?

Re-direct sling on the top of the POW for minimum friction...poor pic.
View attachment 102360View attachment 102361View attachment 102362View attachment 102363



We work on very uneven ground so preventing losing a 1/2 wrap over a fairlead where the rope does a partial 180⁰ around the POW top, ring instead of the barrel, lockup action is extra important. The roper may be uphill, downhill, or horizontal to the POW.

I expect floppy POW are a leading cause of fouling or unintentionally loss of wraps. A $3, multipurpose ratchet strap works great.



P.S. Ignore the 9/16" stable braid in that size POW. It's just my small Rig-and-Rig, that was handy.
Picture two, no wraps. Picture three, half a wrap.

We don't use a sling to hold up the Port O Wrap, we've never needed to use a sling to keep wraps on either, but our terrain is a little less uneven than yours.
 
Picture two, no wraps. Picture three, half a wrap.

We don't use a sling to hold up the Port O Wrap, we've never needed to use a sling to keep wraps on either, but our terrain is a little less uneven than yours.
I also call that third pic a half wrap, but to distinguish easily "no wrap" from "no porty", I call out "just hook it up".
 
Side question: who has fouled or lost some wrap a droopy POW, particularly negative rigging, particularly longer pieces, I'd think?
I have, and only once. I was running the rope, and didn’t pull in the slack for the fraction of a second it was in free fall. I learned instantly from that, and have never lost a half wrap since. I also managed to stop the 10’ long 16” fir log before it hit, but scary.
 
Side question: who has fouled or lost some wrap a droopy POW, particularly negative rigging, particularly longer pieces, I'd think?
I have, yet there was an element to it that was operator error. I changed my technique and the issue ceased along time ago.

Sure it can be good to have a little belly in the line to reduce shock load but with topo and site specifics this can cause a half wrap to jump.

Technique changes are to hold snug, pulling out on the porty and lean into the line with butt belay stance. As the weight shifts loading the line let your weight off the butt friction and line run.
Switch ends of the rigging line and take the wrap in the most favorable clockwise or counter clockwise that the site allows.
Go bigger and go heavier, or go smaller. This is allows for a full wrap using the skyward peg or no wrap.
Orrr old school partial trunk wrap and a groundie that knows a ‘feel’

A friendly stub or two, this allows a little extra friction. If the porty is at 6 o’clock leave a stub at 12 o’clock When the line is tied off but before it goes through the porty the groundie can flip their half of the line over the stub and then into the porty with no wrap. This stub kinda acts as your half wrap. This also can work well to change the rope angles on leaning spars and keep the groundie’s end up tight to the trunk limiting fouling with the load.
 
I have, yet there was an element to it that was operator error. I changed my technique and the issue ceased along time ago.

Sure it can be good to have a little belly in the line to reduce shock load but with topo and site specifics this can cause a half wrap to jump.

Technique changes are to hold snug, pulling out on the porty and lean into the line with butt belay stance. As the weight shifts loading the line let your weight off the butt friction and line run.
Switch ends of the rigging line and take the wrap in the most favorable clockwise or counter clockwise that the site allows.
Go bigger and go heavier, or go smaller. This is allows for a full wrap using the skyward peg or no wrap.
Orrr old school partial trunk wrap and a groundie that knows a ‘feel’

A friendly stub or two, this allows a little extra friction. If the porty is at 6 o’clock leave a stub at 12 o’clock When the line is tied off but before it goes through the porty the groundie can flip their half of the line over the stub and then into the porty with no wrap. This stub kinda acts as your half wrap. This also can work well to change the rope angles on leaning spars and keep the groundie’s end up tight to the trunk limiting fouling with the load.
This is exactly it. I don't have time right now to type out the details, so thanks Evo for clarifying
 
IIRC someone posted a chart of tension ratio (weight of log / pull force at groundie's hands) for different porty wrap configurations. It goes up rapidly/exponentially with the minor extra constant of the two 90's over the rods where they meet the barrel. The rod 90 bends count a little more because they're smaller diameter bends.
 
We would say to put the rope in the device or 'just a bight.' half wraps and full wraps after that. Pretty much always pretension the device with body weight before any piece is cut, helps avoid the fouling.
 
If fairlead pins were longer or , they would work better, from my armchair.
IIRC someone posted a chart of tension ratio (weight of log / pull force at groundie's hands) for different porty wrap configurations. It goes up rapidly/exponentially with the minor extra constant of the two 90's over the rods where they meet the barrel. The rod 90 bends count a little more because they're smaller diameter bends.
I recall that and would love to see it.

Treespyder????
 

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