I would echo many of the comments above, particularly about not getting in over your head, and about pruning dose/not letting the client dictate arboricultural standards.
However, since I believe in training by doing things outside one's current skillset, and because I didn't listen to the old bulls' good advice when I started, and because I faked it til I made it (my first removal on spikes was a 65' maple with a nearly equal spread, 28" dbh, right next to an above ground pool, on a trial day with a new company. I started the day trying to put my spikes on the wrong feet, gaffs on the outside.), and finally because I expect that the OP is going to try to do this tree anyway, if he hasn't already, here's my advice:
Enter the tree low, by ladder, the roof, by setting your line with a polesaw, or some combination of those three, or with a throwline low down, at a branch union that will hold you.
Advance your tie in point using the alternate lanyard technique, as described in the tree climber's companion: climb to your TIP, and then install your lanyard either in that same union, or one adjacent. Transfer your weight to your lanyard. If doing so is going to hang you out in space, reposition your lanyard to your lower dees or your bridge before transferring your weight to it, or prepare for discomfort. Once your weight is in your lanyard, and you've verified it's safe, remove your climbing line from the your current TIP, and advance it to a higher union, either by tossing or using a polesaw. When you install your line in the higher union, take heed of the advice of previous posters, and install it around the parent stem or trunk, and above the branch. This is always good practice, but it will allow you to (relatively) safely climb out of a union where the parent stem is large enough to support you, but the branch is not.
Once you have advanced your climbing line, transfer your weight to it, remove your lanyard if necessary, and climb to your new TIP. Rinse and repeat until you have attained your final TIP. It is not always necessary to advance using your climbing line if there is an appropriate union within reach of your lanyard, but if nothing is, you'll have to secure your position with your lanyard and advance with your climbing line. You should always try to climb the tree rather than the rope if possible, as it is usually faster if you don't already have a high point. A great video of this technique is at
. He doesn't cover advancing with a pole, but it's covered in the tree climber's companion. Basically, you tie a figure eight or nine on a bight or a monkey's fist in the terminal end of your line, feed out enough slack, and then push the knot through the union with the hook of the pole saw, and then pull the knot back to you with the hook. Untie the knot, clip back in, tend the slack, secure the pole, and resume climbing. With a 12' pole, you should be able to advance 14' or more.
Advancing your line by toss or pole is literally the fundamental skill of tree climbing. You have no business setting SRT/SRS anchors, cinching your climbing line, using spikes, or alternating webbing footholds, or throwing a throwline into the upper canopy, until you have mastered this skill. There are plenty of appropriate unions in that tree to get to the top, if you advance this way. You get a close inspection of each TIP before committing to it. It is simple, safe, requires nothing but climbing gear and perhaps a polesaw, and is frequently faster and more efficient than more advanced techniques, including throwlines. And, I will bet my next paycheck that if you can't access the tree using this technique, you will also not be able to successfully perform what I will generously call the "retrenchment pruning" called for in your scope of work.
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Before I'm accused of being a Luddite, I climb SRS 75+% of the time and use a throwline every day, frequently with a big shot. I dance my fat ass out in the tips. We're not talking about me, we're talking about a novice.
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