Need some advice

[Joel_Mazza]

Hey all,

I have a tall relatively skinny (I think it's a maple?) that had some cracking in the trunk bark. It was here before I moved in 2 years ago but I believe it's pretty young. I cut around the split and am waiting for it to heal but it appears the innards are starting to crack as well. Looking for some advice to save the tree... Is a tree wrap worth a try? The leaves also appear to indicate the tree may be diseased. I've attached some pics. Figured pro arborists could provide the best insight.

Thanks !

-Joel

 

[guymayor]

The old trunk wound is closing poorly--roots need help. Unrelated to harmless leaf spots.

 

[Joel_Mazza]

The old trunk wound is closing poorly--roots need help. Unrelated to harmless leaf spots.

Roots need help....like over/under watered? Fertilizer? The soil around here is pretty clay dominated.

 

[cerviarborist]

Joel, you should have the tree evaluated in person by an ISA Certified Arborist with advanced knowledge of tree and site evaluation techniques and plant health care. Go to www.isa-arbor.com and use the "find an arborist" tab to find practitioners in your area. It'll be a paid consultation. Afterward you should be significantly better informed about the condition of your tree, its suitability for retention on the site and what options you have for improving the trees ability to live in the site in which it's planted. Then you'll be making informed decisions about how to manage your property and trees. Good luck!

 

[Winch]

Just a guess, here, but I think that may have been an old scratching post for the last people's pets who lived there. Same thing happened to a ginkgo tree and a southern magnolia in my backyard. Of course, as soon as I saw the damage starting, I wrapped it in chicken wire and I think the problem has stopped. Lotsa feral cats in the neighborhood.

Looks like a young tree - you can't fix decay, but the crack is probably going to be a non-factor if the tree starts to compartmentalize.

 

[Tree_Frog]

The trunk appears to be sun scalded. This usually happens at the time of planting after getting pulled from the shade at a nursery. It can also happen during the winter if there is a lot of freeze and thaw during the sap flow.

It appears that you have rock mulch. This is bad. I am assuming that there is a weed mat under the rock. This is bad also. No water to the roots. No air and nutrients to the soil. Rocks create a heat sink. Shallow roots will be a problem under the weed mat. Weed mat has a history of creating surface roots and infastructure root damage.

Planting depth unknown.

Sun scald damage is large with horizontal cracking exposing the heart wood. There is no CODIT for this and exposes the heartwood to decay. This could pose serious problems in the future for a hollow tree or failure.

Leaf scald could be associated with a poor root zone. Too many variables to be sure.

Call a Certified Arborist as recommended above. Plan for a remove and replacement of the tree.
-Remove the rock mulch and replace with a mini pine bark (1 inch or less). This help nutrient cycling as the mini's break down.
-Get a soil sample conducted for optimal amendments.
-Have the soil amended as required by the soil analysis and the recommendations of the Arborist.
-Removed and replace the chip debris from stump grinding with clean topsoil . The chips will steal nutrients from the soil for a few months as they decay.

Hope this helps.

 

[Daniel]

the bark damage may be mechanical as well. Seen plenty of scalded bark from burning brush too close to the trunk as well.. the crack is just a check from the "dead" wood drying out... there is nothing you can do to "heal" the wound.. the tree will decay all the wood present when he wound occurred. the wood that has developed since the wound will put on new growth every year, leaving that tree to become a hollow tree.. the new wood may be strong enough to support the tree structurally and there may be enough vascular tissue in tact to keep the fluids flwoing up and doown the trunk in order to help the tree survuve and thrive.. there will always be structural compromise and the threat of failure though.... water it in the dry weather and send it loving thoughts... tell it how much you appreciate it and how much you want it to live... OFTEN!

 

[TreeLogic]

It appears that you have rock mulch. This is bad. I am assuming that there is a weed mat under the rock. This is bad also. No water to the roots. No air and nutrients to the soil. Rocks create a heat sink. Shallow roots will be a problem under the weed mat. Weed mat has a history of creating surface roots and infastructure root damage.

X2.
Every time I see rock listed as a potential mulch I can't believe it. There are so many qualities in a good mulch that rock doesn't even come close to, on meeting the specs. Rock might hold some moisture and provide some protection from temperature extremes but that's about it. It won't break down into a compost and feed the plant. It definitely won't help with compaction issues. And the sharp edges won't make a happy environment for tender tree roots.

I'd be surprised if that damage was only sunscald. I don't think it would be as defined as it is. Looks more mechanical to me. Just my 2 cents though.

On thing's for sure, as young as this maple is, it's definitely not done for just yet. Take care of the soil and mulch issues, make sure the remedies do not bury the root flare, and maintain proper soil moisture. That wound will probably be compartmentalized in a couple of growing seasons.

Is that a Freeman Maple, Guy? The sinuses seem too deep for Red Maple but too shallow for Silver Maple.

 

[TreeLogic]

That scar could also be damage from whatever strap someone wrapped around the trunk during transport and planting.