Matching cuts, Back release, Side leaner

R

Reg

Branched out member
Location
Victoria, BC
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Excuse the lack of clarity and eloquence in the speaking, none of it is planned or pre-rehearsed. Its just that I make a habit of trying to explain my actions on a job so's the next time people know what to expect and are all on the same page. Most of the time it pays. 3 seperate trees in this instance, and a couple of the techniques discussed. Hope its not too dull. Thanks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kl_jogiuO94
 
Reg, you have gone full-on PNW logger on us! That could have passed for a video excerpt from Gerry's book with all the humboldts and snipes...

Lookin good.
 
Reg, nice video. What do you have going with your face cut on the last tree and why? It looks like some specialized intentional dutchman.
 
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keep doing that back release like that and your saw is going to get jerked out of your hands and maybe smashed

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Hasn't yet happened in 23 years Jeff....I wonder why. Please explain. Thanks
 
Norm its an oregon bar, much skinnier than the huskies.

Out door crazy, its a block-out face, or gapped humboldt....for better holding wood.

Thanks
 
Reg, the side leaner was guyed at 150 degrees to the lean..at what angle did you aim your face cut at? It looked like 75 to 90 degrees. Great video, thanks. Lonnie
 
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keep doing that back release like that and your saw is going to get jerked out of your hands and maybe smashed

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Happened once to me in 18 years. Tossed a 66 about 20 feet. Anytime a kerf is created in the piece that is leaving, the potential exists for the chain to get caught.

It is only a potential, not a promise.

Nice hinging wood to play with.

Good job with the instruction.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
keep doing that back release like that and your saw is going to get jerked out of your hands and maybe smashed

[/ QUOTE ]

Happened once to me in 18 years. Tossed a 66 about 20 feet. Anytime a kerf is created in the piece that is leaving, the potential exists for the chain to get caught.

It is only a potential, not a promise.

Nice hinging wood to play with.

Good job with the instruction.

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Well, for starters, that’s a full sized, straight grained tree in the video, so the action down at the cut is always going to be very slow while the face closes....the taller the tree the slower the action, everybody knows that right?
There’s no fast jerky action as Jeff described it from me or tree at that point. Watch the video again and notice how easily I’m able to slide the bar out as the cut opens, with all the time in the world. A short log with knotty grain might be pushing it, but then there would be no need for a back release on a short log anyhow, and that’s not what’s in the video.

Furthermore and very importantly, the release cut is angled, so the weakest part of the wood is always in front of my bar as it advances... no matter how fast I make the cut, that’s where it’ll break in a perfect line.

Perhaps a little more attention to detail needed, and a little less haste to jump on what is perceived to be a mistake....unless you really are concerned about my saws Jeff, in which case, thanks buddy.

It was about 90 degrees lonniels.

Thanks again.
 
BANG ON REG... BANG ON!

Thanks for bringing your vids full circle, explaining what you do and how you do it, and sharing it with others to boot! I have seen these techniques used in many of your previous videos, the commentary now is just a treat.

Wish you would put more up more often... whatever you do don't delete any, just keep them stored somewhere safe. Thanks for sharing Reg.
 
This slanting release cut is new to me. I don't understand the mechanics of it. I've always heard to release from below the bore cut, or maybe dead even with it.

Do you think that is any danger of saw snatching if the cut were made higher/ too high, or with a heavy leaner, rather than this case of a slow falling spar?
 
Think about why a snap cut releases far easier when pulled in one direction as opposed to pushing in another?

Jomoco
 
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Do you think that is any danger of saw snatching if the cut were made higher/ too high, or with a heavy leaner, rather than this case of a slow falling spar?

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If you go looking for touble in a disrespectful ilogical way, however simple or complex the task, chances are you'll find it somehow.

I generally aim the angled cut to come within an inch of where the bore-cut ends....anything more would be pointless, unless I was trying to miss a nail or something.

Cutting below as is generally what you'd find in the textbook is just fine....its just that I personally find it a lot less ergonomic, especially with the 3120. Where's with the angled cut I can just just reach out and rest the saw in the kerf and get a better view of whats happening up top at the same time.

Thanks again.
 
That was a good learning vid. Was asking about the angle of the release cut( I do the cut straight in).



was wondering the same on the leaner with the thick chunks.Question for you or anyone else, if you gut the vertical then the wedge shape with the saw. Or is the width of the bar to wide to make that cut? Or this how wide do you make the chunk at the end of the the wedge for holding wood?

All in all nice vid. I have a couple of spars that need knocking down will use that info thanks for posting keep up the good work.
 
[ QUOTE ]
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Do you think that is any danger of saw snatching if the cut were made higher/ too high, or with a heavy leaner, rather than this case of a slow falling spar?

[/ QUOTE ]

If you go looking for touble in a disrespectful ilogical way, however simple or complex the task, chances are you'll find it somehow.

I generally aim the angled cut to come within an inch of where the bore-cut ends....anything more would be pointless, unless I was trying to miss a nail or something.

Cutting below as is generally what you'd find in the textbook is just fine....its just that I personally find it a lot less ergonomic, especially with the 3120. Where's with the angled cut I can just just reach out and rest the saw in the kerf and get a better view of whats happening up top at the same time.

Thanks again.

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Whoa, seems like you may have taken offense where none was meant.

I wasn't suggesting that you'd cut it up too high, but for someone with lesser saw skills, they might be more prone to this happening.

I was just wondering about the benefits.

Seems like a mill log would have to be cut shorter as a result of the angled backcut. You were mentioning the benefit of the humboldt cut for the face with regards to a mill log to avoid this problem.

Wonder if the angled cut below the bore cut would be any better or worse, or for the sake of discussion, intending for the release cut to meet right at the bore cut.

I haven't tried your technique, and was just thinking about it. I'll give it a try. No judgments on the technique, just questions.
 
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