Loose D-shackle on BF2

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The bottom line is, if you want to customize the fit of a harness, and want to replace worn parts, this facility will be appreciated.



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You can still undo a nylock nut and replace a worn part. If you as a manafacturer can choose for extra safty by using a longer bolt and a nylock nut why don't you?

take for instance the dynema but strap that ART sells.

Nothing is dummy proef but if you have the option....

jelte
 
I have come accross a single loose shackle during inspection of equipment in the uk. It turns out that the individual in question had replaced the bridge on the BF11 a few days before the inspection (he had caught it with his silky saw), and thankfully it was noted and potential disaster prevented. As it has been said many times before there is no substitute for a pre climb inspection of your kit.
 
Yes, of course, I take your point Jelte.

But the person who forgets to tighten the bolt, is the same person that fogets to tighten the nut, or put it on, or loose it and carry on...and on...

I'll mention it with the TFX team and see what we come up with.

Cheers
P.
 
I have encountered this problem too. The first time that I noticed that the shackle was loose was when I was on my way up an oak and I looked down at my saddle and it scared the hell out of me. I was never warned and never gave it any thought. I check it all the time now.
 
Nylock nuts are supposed to be replaced after each use if I remember what the mfgs. directions say. Over the years I've reused them but I have no clue how much of a risk this is.

Using a jam nut or plain nut tightened up to the threaded side of the shackle would work too. Tightening the two against each other puts a heck of a lot of torgue on the threads.

Nylock nuts or double nutting is pretty common on chipper knives. With the right amount of torque it's very unlikely that any nut will come loose.
 
the shackle kind of freaks me out too. i used lock-tite, check before, and sometimes during every climb, and keep an allen wrench in my gear bag. Never had one come loose yet though. I liked the old style, never minded tying rope for a replacement bridge. the knots actually kept my biner from sliding over the rings. what about using a small posi-lock biner in place of the shackles? might be too bulky, but just a thought.
 
I have found my shackles to have come loose slightly, meaning that I was able to tighten them when I went to inspect them. I also felt that for a shackle of such importance it would be wise to have a double locking system. We do for our caribiners right? I know that that ART pulley has a double locking system that I appreciate. Are there shackles available that do have either a second nut or a screw like the ART pulley does?
 
Thanks for the heads up, I have the BF2.
I removed the two shackles to take that small ring off
of the bridge and replace it with the larger of the two rings on the Cambium saver. Easier for two caribiners.

I used the red locktite for gluing in upon replacement of shackles.
 
Nope, sorry...i didn't mean for it to be taken like that. I swear I know nothing of the sort.

Maybe it's just wishful thinking on my behalf. For a long time I've been wanting a tiny connecting device that would be double auto locking, could be used to connect bridges to saddles, and maybe also be the small ring of a friction saver, or at least be the small connector between a pulley and a home made friction saver.

If there's a few incidents, someone will come up with something. It will scare itself into the market.

love
nick
 
I don't like the idea of the nylock nut on the shackle for thie application. It'll snag on things.

I think we should use the idea that ART uses on the rope guides Basically drill into the inside of the end of the bolt on the shackle, thread it, then have a smaller little bolt that'd get threaded into the end of it.

Any thoughts?

love
nick
 
I don't know why they don't just use one shackleon the II, since you can girth-hitch your bridge to a ring on the other end, and still have it be replaceable. (That's how I modified my BF I, and I figure the likelyhood of failure is 1/2 as much as if I had 2 shackles.)
 
to properly apply loctite, clean the threaded areas with Acetone and a clean soft rag. let dry for about 5 seconds and apply a drop of red loctite to the threads. Rethreead the pin, torque to spec and let it sit overnight before use. And as others have mentioned....CHECK YOUR GEAR DAILY!, this means a full inspection of your ropes from END TO END,cleaning and lubing all pivot points on the biners, inspecting for wear in slings, lanyards, whooooopies etc etc etc.

nuff said
 
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