Kick-Back

[Mark Chisholm]

On Monday, I had a bit of a painful afternoon. The last job of the day required the removal of three pitch pines(Pinus rigida). Nothing too technical, and only 65' and 75' tall. The tricky part was that two of them had been struck by lightening and were now dead.

All things went well until I went to fell the second trunk. It was about 25' tall and maybe 20" dbh. No big deal, routine even. I carved my face cut, and started my plunge cut. After I got the tip started safely, I turned my trigger hand over and resumed using my thumb to control the throttle.

Just then (like a streak of lightening) the saw kicked with ferosity. My body position was good so it never moved more than 5 or 6 inches. The problem was that it had jammed back my thumb probably 5 or 6". Wow did that sting. It swelled up and started to ache immediately.

I went to the truck and got some hockey tape and some wooden splints to make do. I was one-handed for the remainder.

Turns out that my 460 had caught a piece of steel just inside the tree. Not too uncommon, but thankfully it usually does not result in a kick-back like this one had.

It has been three days now and I am able to start squeezing again. Although last nights hockey game was very painful, I think that it has helped (not to mention that we won our semis and will be in the championship next Wed!).

Just goes to show you that good body positioning is key even for simple and routine cuts.

 

[treeclimber165]

I always try to remind myself of potential foriegn objects in trunks, typically in the first 10'. I've never done a lot of plunge cutting on hinges, but am comfortable doing so if necessary.
Thanks for the reminder. Getting too comfortable and forgetting the basics is what leads to major injuries for those of us with many years experience. Glad your thumb is better.

 

[MrPez]

No safety issue there - with the bar tip buried in the wood, you were unlucky enough to suffer about as serious an injury as is possible. I normally crouch resting my forearms/elbows on the knees. The saw can be driven home when boring with the right knee braced behind the right elbow - if the saw kicks back, the knee takes the force rather than the thumb. I see a lot of pictures in american arb literature of arborists felling trees at waist height - Fell them low as poss. This gives more control over the saw, and allows most trees upto 25" diameter to be levered over with a forestry felling bar - just place lever between crouched knees and stand with a straight back.

Unlike yourself Mark, too many operators forget to straighten their wrist by useing their thumb on the throttle. By not doing this, the tendons in the wrist are at great risk of injury from repetitive strain. I got tendonitis in my right wrist 7 years ago when undertaking a forestry contract. Felling, snedding and converting all day every day takes its toll if proper techniques are practiced. In this instance I was gripping the rear handle too tightly whilst de-limbing conifers. Professional forestry teaches great saw handling skills!

Is that ice hockey you're talking about Mark? Hope your thumb heals OK.

[ August 30, 2002: Message edited by: MrPez ]