IVY root removal

J

jsseattle

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LYNNWOOD
We had English Ivy on our Fir tree, and removed all leaves and cut the bottom of Ivy trunk.

Now I don't want to take any risk of using Roudup or chemical stuffs that may kill 100ft fir tree.

Can you please tell me what to do with this? I'm not sure about the green root, could be the root for the fir tree.

Thanks for your help in advance.
 

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I've been advised before with vines to cut them near the ground, and then use a paint brush to apply roundup directly to the cut stump so that it draws it into the roots of the ivy and leaves your tree alone.
 
Jehinten said:
I've been advised before with vines to cut them near the ground, and then use a paint brush to apply roundup directly to the cut stump so that it draws it into the roots of the ivy and leaves your tree alone.
Click to expand...

Got it. How much should I apply the roundup to the cutstomp of ivy? Anyway I can make safe for kids if it rains? Thanks
 
Jehinten said:
I've been advised before with vines to cut them near the ground, and then use a paint brush to apply roundup directly to the cut stump so that it draws it into the roots of the ivy and leaves your tree alone.
Click to expand...
NOPE. You were advised incorrectly.
Read the RoundUp instructions.

It should be applied to actively growing vegetation. Not stem ends.
It is very effective on broad leaf plants. e.g. wild grape vines, poison ivy, etc.
It transports from the leaves down into the roots.

I used to buy RoundUp concentrate in 5 Gal. containers before dilution.

It won't harm your Fir tree if you don't let it get on the needles.
I've used it on my property for 25+ years.

There are herbicides that can be applied to the stem ends, but you need a licence.
e.g. Tordon
 
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Killing your English Ivy may now take a couple of seasons.
If you cut off all the vegetation, let some of it grow back. i.e. Lot of vigorous leaves.
Then apply RoundUp.
However, the root system is significantly more mature.
Reapply in very late summer, and again next year.
 
JD3000 said:
Glyphosate is systemic through bark as well. Be very careful.
Click to expand...
RoundUp w/ Imazapic - can be a problem, particularly around evergreens, etc.

I am not aware of RoundUp uptake thru bark. do you have a link ?

Roundup® Weed and Grass Killer Ready-to-Use Plus Weed Preventer (1% glyphosate, 2% pelargonic acid, 0.17% imazapic)
The weed prevention claim on the container states that weeds may be prevented for up to four months after application. That is the job of the active ingredient, imazapic. Read the label for specific use instructions and application procedures prior to using this product. These weed preventers will sometimes allow the use of the product under established shrubs and trees, but the desired vegetation must be shielded to prevent injury from the spray. In the case of this product, do not apply to annual beds or gardens, as the imazapic will cause injury to annual and herbaceous perennials. Be careful with these types of products; if placed in the wrong area, it will take many months before sensitive species can be planted.

Link for Above: (very concise)
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/hs1171
 
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Tordon RTU (picloram and 2,4-D) doesn't require a license to buy or use. If you sell the service of applying any herbicide you probably need an applicator's license. Basic Roundup (glyphosate) comes in different concentrations. Look for something over 50% active ingredient. There are herbicides that can kill trees through thin bark ("basal bark method") but I've never known glyphosate to be used this way. Glyphosate is highly non-selective but it doesn't travel far or persist much. Glyphosate is the stuff I'd use near valuable trees that I was concerned about.
 
I also add a herbicide surfactant to my diluted RoundUp. (see Ag store)
It improves contact with the vegetation. (particularly w/ waxy (poison ivy), or very "hairy" leaves, etc)
 
These responses are varied... I'd suggest mechanical means, if you're uncertain at all.

Can you pull it out with roots, using a hitch cord on the ivy and a bumper pull? Can you whack it back for two years?

The roots of the ivy may be connected with the roots of the tree. Triclopyr amine (e.g. brush be gone) or any other herbicide applied to the cut ivy stump may travel to the tree this way. I'd use repeated micro treatments of whatever you use. Don't kill your tree.
 
GregManning said:
RoundUp w/ Imazapic - can be a problem, particularly around evergreens, etc.

I am not aware of RoundUp uptake thru bark. do you have a link ?

Roundup® Weed and Grass Killer Ready-to-Use Plus Weed Preventer (1% glyphosate, 2% pelargonic acid, 0.17% imazapic)
The weed prevention claim on the container states that weeds may be prevented for up to four months after application. That is the job of the active ingredient, imazapic. Read the label for specific use instructions and application procedures prior to using this product. These weed preventers will sometimes allow the use of the product under established shrubs and trees, but the desired vegetation must be shielded to prevent injury from the spray. In the case of this product, do not apply to annual beds or gardens, as the imazapic will cause injury to annual and herbaceous perennials. Be careful with these types of products; if placed in the wrong area, it will take many months before sensitive species can be planted.

Link for Above: (very concise)
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/hs1171
Click to expand...
Personal experience...largely dead the next year and "needle leaf" on a few branches that kind of lived. Glyphosate + surfactant.
 
Just dig it up... I'm not far from you, and have done so many times... It sucks, but it's effective, just don't slam a shovel in to the ground. IF YOU ARE DILIGENT and keep ripping off anything green from the ivy stump you will eventually kill it.
 
JD3000 said:
Personal experience...largely dead the next year and "needle leaf" on a few branches that kind of lived. Glyphosate + surfactant.
Click to expand...

I'd like to hear more details about this. Painting with 53.8% glyphosate with a bit of surfactant and dye is my go-to cut and paint herbicide for vines on trees. I don't know of a safer method that's nearly as effective and efficient. We're careful not to cut into the tree bark when severing the vines and we're not sloppy with the herbicide (we're now using these homemade sponge-tipped herbicide wands). We've saved a lot of trees from English ivy and wisteria and I'm not aware that we've harmed any unintentionally.
 
Well...I was asked over many drinks how to kill a tree covertly...

Ranger Pro at a 5% solution plus Pentra Bark at 3oz per gl mixed solution.
 
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I was merely an advisor and may also have told him how to make a killer Cuban sandwich...It's a little fuzzy.

Sent me pics the following summer which I figured was the usual "what's wrong with my tree" thing I get all week. It was more like a "Hey it actually worked!" kinda thing.
 
JD3000 said:
Personal experience...largely dead the next year and "needle leaf" on a few branches that kind of lived. Glyphosate + surfactant.
Click to expand...
I'm not trying to argue, but my experience w/ Glyphosate + surfactant is much different.

I have 10 acres in "forestry" that I used it on, to eradicated poison ivy.
I literally had a "acre-plus worth of patches" through out the woods.
No negative affects. (~1993 thru 1995; & thereafter)

Many years ago, I also planted 200+ Eastern Hemlock seedlings (1-3 years old; 12" high) along another area of tree lawn.
Morning sun, and open; therefore lots of weed competition.
I used RoundUp to keep the weeds down, until the Hemlocks got a good start (also many years).
I was careful to shield the foliage from any over spray.
Not a single casualty. (from the RoundUp) [deer, etc, destroyed a few]

I also planted 200+ White Pine seedlings, within the woods. Most are now gone.
I did not spray them, but the deer (& rabbits ???) consumed them ! ;-)

Do we have any Ag / Arb scientific types here who care to wade in ?
 
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