Isolating a static line in the canopy

Fairfield

Participating member
Not sure what you have come up with for isolating a static line in a canopy. I have found that when I tie the line around the throw line that if it takes a few tugs to get through a crotch that the knot will start to open up ( giving it a chance to untie its self). I have tryed diffrent knots but find the same issue with each one. Just to add to the knot opening, even when it doesnt open the bight will open just enough to grab the throwball.

A fix to this I have come up with (one of a few but best one), I had a Kong Frog sitting around collecting dust. I clip the Frog into the throw cord and the biener into a eight on a bight. Have had no problems thus far with it opening and droping the cord/ball, plus have had not had to worry about the static line opening due to tugging going through a crotch.
 
Well to start what throw line are you using? Larger ones will may not sit well as lets say a zing it. I have used a slip figure 8 or figure 8 on a bight is what I called it in this video. Then others suggested doing a few wraps up then cinch it on a bight/ slip knot. This works really well

It has worked well for me.

Video I put together awhile ago

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ynxvy0HxNrw
 
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I will have to put a pic up as to show what I am talking about.

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Ok I re-read it. I see what you are asking. I will wait to see your pictures.
 
Here is a pic, keep in mind you have the throw line in the tree and now you are going to isolate it ( I dont use the throwball on each end of the cord technique).
 

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Tie multiple clove hitches with the throwline along the static line with the last (first) one right at the end/tip of the static line.

-Tom

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+1 yup!
 
When you look at the pic imagine that the ball and static line are going to be pulled through the crotch. Then I will let the throwball come back down to the ground following the same path it came up (Isolating the line from other leads/branches). Not worried so much about how to just get a line into a tree. Im thinking that this is just not being explained to well on my end.... Keep in mind my line when done being set in the tree will only have the lead that it is on between both ends.
 
I think I get it... Like setting a FS, but instead a static line?

My answer to that would be, just set the line, bring it down, and add an alpine b-fly. Am I still missing something?

-Tom
 
I think you're making too much work for yourself there Fairfield. Way easier to just isolate the throwline first with any number of tricks then tie on the rope with pile hitch, set rope and then send up a running bowline (w/Yosemite tie off), or midline Butterfly.

What you're trying there is actually an older trick that IS possible given the right branch union/dangle angle, but should be well practiced BEFORE you try to show it off to a homeowner or production foreman.
 
Raven and I agree, isolate the TIP first then set the rope.

I would never use a system like you showed unless the tip was a HUGE u shaped union. Too many things in yours to snag or jam.

Once the throwline is set and it's time to install the rope I use a Pile Hitch to attach the TL to the rope. The PH is in The Tree Climbers Companion. Follow it up with a marl or two right to the end of the rope and it will
Slither through most unions.

Here's one variation on the Bottle Trick. Take a plastic drink bottle and. UT of the bottom. My fav is a Gatorade bottle with the round top and two rings at the top of the sides . They are tough and they roll a little too. Tie a stopper knot about a foot or some formyour rope end. Feet the throwline through the bottle mouth. Tie the TL to the rope using th Pile Hitch real close to the pile hitch. Pull the TL/rope through the neck of the bottle. When the bottle gets up to the union it will lift the rope up and allow you to jump the bottle/rope through. You might need to pop it back and forth to get the setup to jump. There are several other refinements to the Bottle Trick too
 
A glorified stick trick.

Isolating one crotch when the throwline is thru multiple crotches.
About the best use Ive seen for the Frog, but like Tom said I wouldnt risk pulling it into and thru the tree, its begging to get stuck.
I use a small rapide mallion link (the fast opening ones) tied to the end of the rope(actually in an eye splice). Drop the TL into it so the bag butts up against just like youve done with the frog. Pull it up thru the first crotch and let the bag down, install a stick or biner on the othe leg of the TL and pull it up till it catches the mallian link and pull it back down, isolating the crotch.
 
Tophopper, You have hit what I am doing here. The issue I have ran into without using the Frog is that I dont use a line with a spliced eye. So I have been tieing a bowline around the throwline. The bowline bight opens to the point that it snags the ball from freely returning to the ground.

I have thought the same thing as all of you about the Frog becoming snagged too much on the tree on the way up or in the crotch, But after doing it this way for a few days now and a hand full of trees it has yet to be a problem (ya great I said it, now tomorrow it will be nothing but issues...). As for the real tight unions in trees (like a locust) I just would not use this setup... Normally I just set a line in a differnt spot and move from there to where I would like to be. That always seemed to me to be the easyer way to go in tight trees as not to waste time or give myself a headache thats not needed. Well a million ways to skin a cat right.. Thanks for the good advice, always great to have a group to brain storm with.
 
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I use a small rapide mallion link (the fast opening ones) tied to the end of the rope(actually in an eye splice). Drop the TL into it so the bag butts up against just like youve done with the frog. Pull it up thru the first crotch and let the bag down, install a stick or biner on the othe leg of the TL and pull it up till it catches the mallian link and pull it back down, isolating the crotch.

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Ahh nice! I finally get it. Very workable, even for the most challenging situations. What I like is the way it gives you a chance to back out if needed, and try and jump through a tough spot, and it should work really well in the situation where you'd normally have to work the throwbag/throwline blind for example in a tall conifer. Mini-rapide mallion is now going into my climb kit.

Most of the time a bag can be safely pulled and dropped through the crown of a tree to isolate but... it's gone wrong enough that I'll be playing around with this technique.
-AJ
 

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