Is this setup safe?

[Murph]

The only thing I'd want to be absolutely sure of is that the pulley prussik (the dyneema sling) couldn't pull a bight of snakebite through the figure 8. With some of my custom ropeguides this has been an issue if the prussik wasn't sufficiently large to prevent being pulled through. In that case it simply choked on the stem and made retrieval impossible. With long legs such as yours it could result in a long fall before stopping. As others have mentioned an alpine butterfly or marlin spike below the figure 8 prussik is also a must.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

[ QUOTE ]
The OP never asked about either of these things, did he?

[/ QUOTE ]

Banjo mentioned the added load of an SRT setup.

If a TIP is chosen it should have a 10:1 safety factor. One that is good for DdRT should be strong, one for SRT, stronger.

The concern about the added load of SRT should be easy to accomodate. It might mean a compromised safety factor if the same TIP is used that was good for DdRT. Too often a TIP is chosen with only a marginal safety factor. In other words, one that will hold the static load of a climber but my be sketchy for a fall or slip. If that's so then the TIP is NOT up to spec. The same TIP for DdRT would have a 10:1 SF but would still have a 5:1 SF if used for SRT. If a marginal TIP is used with only a 1:1 SF then it is already too weak.

I've chosen SRT TIPs with less than 10:1 SFs if I the climb is not going to involve ANY lateral movement or slack in my rope. This is all part of the risk analysis of a climb.

 

[peder-d]

[ QUOTE ]
The only thing I'd want to be absolutely sure of is that the pulley prussik (the dyneema sling) couldn't pull a bight of snakebite through the figure 8. With some of my custom ropeguides this has been an issue if the prussik wasn't sufficiently large to prevent being pulled through. In that case it simply choked on the stem and made retrieval impossible. With long legs such as yours it could result in a long fall before stopping. As others have mentioned an alpine butterfly or marlin spike below the figure 8 prussik is also a must.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks, Murph.
THAT is a mayor concearn! I haven't thought about that!
I'll back it up with a figure 8. The good thing about the figure 8 is, that you can still footlock the acces rope from the ground, in case of an emergency.

 

[peder-d]

...and I'll shorten the legs. Just bought some 30 and some 60cm slings. Think the 30cm will do.
Can you make it work with an alpine butterfly, or do you also use a ring on a prusik?

 

[banjo]

When I use this system I use a pinto spliced onto allgears' tech chord(16 strand hollow braid). To avoid the issue of the prussic slipping through the alpine butterfly I use a ten wrap prussic. (five wraps up and five down, maybe its a five wrap prussic, I dont know.)

 

[Tony]

Banjo,

For the record, your knot is:

Five wraps, Ten coils

Now you know!!

Tony

 

[peder-d]

[ QUOTE ]
When I use this system I use a pinto spliced onto allgears' tech chord(16 strand hollow braid). To avoid the issue of the prussic slipping through the alpine butterfly I use a ten wrap prussic. (five wraps up and five down, maybe its a five wrap prussic, I dont know.)

[/ QUOTE ]

Good idea! Have you got a picture of the setup?

 

[banjo]

I actually have my gear home for once, hear it is!

How do I embed photos??

 

[banjo]

Second try.

 

[peder-d]

Cool, Banjo.
That seems pretty straight forward to set up.
Take care

 

[banjo]

No worries. It is a simple system, however as with every climbing system it has its time and place. Good luck with it, let us know how it works for you!

 

[peder-d]

Here we go again.
I have attached the carabiner with an alpine butterfly. Pulley is on a short sling through the ring. The reason for the carabiner is to prevent the thing from being pulled through the ring.
It seems to work fine. And to be safe.
Any opinion on that ??
Would love to get some feedback.

 

[peder-d]

Is there a problem with (sort of) jamming the carabiner against the sides of the ring? I meen, it might create kind of a bending on it. And is there a chance of opening the carabiner when it moves along the ring, when you are climbing on the system?

I really enjoy the setup. Sometimes I use two petzl revolvers on the access rope instead. But it seems to give me a lot more friction, that the system showed on the picture.