HitchHIker DRT Use and Basic Function

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Yo-Yo Man
Why not attach the biner onto the Pinto becket instead of the ring? That way, the standing side of your rope will be out of the way.

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I did a video about how I'm changing over SRT to DdRT but at 13:15 mentioned the becket. I don't know if the video is worth another thread about changeover.
Thoughts and advise? Some of this maybe common practice and I have just not seen it before.

Using the becket with the Hitch Hiker to create a V-rig system


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Yo-Yo Man
Why not attach the biner onto the Pinto becket instead of the ring? That way, the standing side of your rope will be out of the way.

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That is an excellent technique OldMillTreeCare1, what you describe there is exactly how the CELanyard is set up and I do like that.
With my climbing style I go to a V-rig most often to get where I want to go. ...

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A better picture of what I'm working on.

IMG_1741_small.JPG
 
In your video, you referred to a scaffold knot and how it could interfere with your hitch. You COULD employ a figure eight knot with a longer eye (like the eye splice on the other end) and use a rubber band to create less slop at the attachment point. With that system, you'd have something as predictable as the eye splice.

Pretty cool setup, YoYo.
 
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In your video, you referred to a scaffold knot and how it could interfere with your hitch. You COULD employ a figure eight knot with a longer eye (like the eye splice on the other end) and use a rubber band to create less slop at the attachment point. With that system, you'd have something as predictable as the eye splice.

Pretty cool setup, YoYo.

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Thanks,
Does that attachment to the carabiner need to be a "clinching" or "cinching" knot according to ANSI?
If I use the figure 8 can a corner capture fit that requirement to keep it from moving around on the carabiner or as you suggest a rubber band?
Good feedback, again, thanks!

P.S. And not that I'm in an environment that I need to comply with such standards, just want to do what is the safest for my climbing style.
I like your suggestion.
 
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In your video, you referred to a scaffold knot and how it could interfere with your hitch. You COULD employ a figure eight knot with a longer eye (like the eye splice on the other end) and use a rubber band to create less slop at the attachment point. With that system, you'd have something as predictable as the eye splice.

Pretty cool setup, YoYo.

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Thanks,
Does that attachment to the carabiner need to be a "clinching" or "cinching" knot according to ANSI?
If I use the figure 8 can a corner capture fit that requirement to keep it from moving around on the carabiner or as you suggest a rubber band?
Good feedback, again, thanks!

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Well, the long eye splice is essentially non-cinching without the rubber band to create a smaller closure at the end of the splice, so I'm just thinking you could set up something similar using a figure eight knot with a long eye and a band.

ANSI wants the cinching effect to keep an eye from rotating around the connector, such as a carabiner gate, etc...The knot can have a long eye as long as a band holds it in place like a tight eye.
 
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In your video, you referred to a scaffold knot and how it could interfere with your hitch. You COULD employ a figure eight knot with a longer eye (like the eye splice on the other end) and use a rubber band to create less slop at the attachment point. With that system, you'd have something as predictable as the eye splice.

Pretty cool setup, YoYo.

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Thanks,
Does that attachment to the carabiner need to be a "clinching" or "cinching" knot according to ANSI?
If I use the figure 8 can a corner capture fit that requirement to keep it from moving around on the carabiner or as you suggest a rubber band?
Good feedback, again, thanks!

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Well, the long eye splice is essentially non-cinching without the rubber band to create a smaller closure at the end of the splice, so I'm just thinking you could set up something similar using a figure eight knot with a long eye and a band.

ANSI wants the cinching effect to keep an eye from rotating around the connector, such as a carabiner gate, etc...The knot can have a long eye as long as a band holds it in place like a tight eye.

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Good points! I have heard of guys taking that long eye and girth hitching it to the biner too, maybe same could be done with the 8?
 
Video is private?

Just got my HH this week, played around with it this afternoon for a bit on tachyon. Does that 10mm beeline have a bit of a break in period? Going up with a foot ascender and hand ascender with foot loop, there were occasions where both that MT would not grab, and played with a VT a bit. The cord would "spring" open, and provide no friction on the rope. Dont know if I was imagining it, but seemed the angle the legs of the hitch were at when the dogbone was fully released played a part in it.
 
The 10 mm beeline definitely has a break in. For ascent it will need to be really tight at first... Get some HRC, it is way better.
 
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...Get some HRC, it is way better.

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Eight millimeter Armor-Prus also works great on Tachyon.
 
I have had no trouble with 10 mil Bee Line, just be sure to wrap it TIGHT the first time(it will feel way too tight), then set all your weight into it hard until the bottom coil extends a bit, then pull all the slack back through the Dogbone and retie the stopper knot even tighter - good to go - seems like a lot of messing around, but once you get used to it and know what to expect then it's really not that hard.


How long before we see a HitchHiker/HitchClimber hybrid?

The perfect tool with the great DdRT slack tending and three hole versatility of the Hitchclimber, combined with the added friction of the HH enabling SRT ascent and positioning?

Holy grail here we come!
 
Raven, unfortunately you cannt have a connection point for your Drt rope on the HH. Believe me I do tree work daily and flip flop between Srt and Drt all day long. It would be sweet to have a cleaner setup but it just plain doesnt work. What I love about the HH is it adds friction dependent upon the load which is exactly why it works for Drt and for 120lbs climbers and 340lbs climbers. However if you put an eye for Ddrt on it then 100% of the load is still seen so it puts on as much friction as it would single. Bottom line is you cannt move.......

If we could put the load to the biner it would work..... Ive thought about a rated advancing tether but it gets very sketchy with liability ....
 
Did you try that Paul, did it work for you? I just used an eye and eye hitch cord to test it out and it didnt seem to work, but I never left the ground..
 
I didnt try it extensively and never climbed on it but it seemed to work. For me on a Sequia it really isnt such a big deal clipping a second biner to the bridge so I quit the pursuit.
 
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If we could put the load to the biner it would work..... Ive thought about a rated advancing tether but it gets very sketchy with liability ....

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In my experience it does not work too, its not possibe to pull rope through the device when its loaded.
 
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