Your right, when the Biner rotates and gets side loaded in the slot you can’t tend slack and it’s a pain, and no the pulley doesn’t help in the fact that it will still move in the slot. Pulley only help when everything is lined up properly.
Hitch Hiker
- Thread starter bonner1040
- Start date
rope-a-dope
Branched out member
- Location
- Asheville
I switched to putting mine on kernmaster (with armorpruss8mm). MUCH better tending than on HTP.
theatertech87
Branched out member
- Location
- Rochester
For those of you running a pulley with your bridge ring, I tried it for the first time today. How are you making it easier to attach? by that i mean it's just awkward to line up the rope, the biner, the pulley and the ring all at the same time with only 2 hands. any tricks?
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
Its awkward.
Don't just use your hands. You may have to use your abdomen a bit. Size of bridge ring make a difference.
Been meaning to try it with the larger diameter ring on my MCRS, to test for fit, but haven't had the pulley on hand.
I ordered a DMM Ring, but might have one too small in outer diameter. The pulley rubs my bridge.
Don't just use your hands. You may have to use your abdomen a bit. Size of bridge ring make a difference.
Been meaning to try it with the larger diameter ring on my MCRS, to test for fit, but haven't had the pulley on hand.
I ordered a DMM Ring, but might have one too small in outer diameter. The pulley rubs my bridge.
There is a trick. You need to gently squeeze the side plates of the pulley together until they grip the ring and the pulley will stay on without help. Doing that makes it incredibly easy to set things up.
Jehinten
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Evansville
I saw somewhere, where a climber cut out part of the sideplates of the pulley, so that it could be clipped onto the HH carabiner.
I had fumbles with the fixed side plate pulleys, tried quite a few, found most to be awkwardly short and hard to twist while half on the carabiner getting the rope in and ring on. Tried a lanyard tending pulley with loose side plates, liked the easier installation but still a tad short (rope pinched on bridge ring sometimes due being squeezed in tight by short pulley). Tried an ISC RW pulley was okay but bulky and still a bit fiddly. Bought a Camp Andry pulley for the long side plates and gently straightened the originally curved plates in a vice, rounded off all the shear edges with a chainsaw file.
Two steps and No loose parts. One side stays on the carabiner permanently including while clipping/unclipping the bridge ring, (one step). The extra length and loose side plates makes swinging the free side on/off the rope and the biner real easy.(the other separate step).
Way easier than the ISC pulley to install, about twice as fast which is odd cos the ISC is only 6mm-1/4" shorter from pulley centre to the back of the biner hole but the hole is narrower there so doesn't give as much twist available which makes all the difference. Otherwise the ISC is a good choice as others have already noted earlier, and needs no modification and has much higher load rating..
So far no issues with the rope coming off the side of the pulley when being pulled on angles, wider-flared cheeks at the pulley end would probably increase the odd angle range though.
Attachments
Last edited:
Yes, only for the fact that the bungee neck- chest tether releases the carabiner in the lower slot way better as it's a direct pull in line with the direction of the lower slot :- lifting the carabiner away from the spine. With the HH the other way round the pull can be 90 degrees across the slot so not much disengagement force and a much harder pull to raise the HH. This may not be such an issue if I go get less stiff climbing line, I don't know yet, still experimenting, just trying to get unnecessary energy out of the system.
Last edited:
![20150825_114938-1_resized[329].webp](https://www.treebuzz.com/forum/data/attachments/51/51242-741a159a51d3d91aa7412811cd164969.jpg?hash=uVPqoF8tyk "20150825_114938-1_resized[329].webp")
Muggs
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Canuckistan
I absolutely love my HH2 but the biner will not stop rotating, which binds everything up and then I can't tend slack. So frustrating. I'm running it the fixe pulley below, just like in Dave's picture above.
There is a technic needed with using the HH without a carabiner keeper of some sort. Simply put, it is the combining of movement with slack tending. This is actually how our climbing systems are designed to be used. Introducing slack above the HH is almost guaranteed to cross up the carabiner. Conversely, if as you move about the canopy you keep your line tended and tight by tending slack from under the HH, the carabiner almost never crosses. The same thing for rope walking, hand ascenders above the HH will introduce little ripples of slack that will screw things up.
Even so, I too will get the occasional out of alignment carabiner but it is not often and always self-corrects if loaded suddenly.
Even so, I too will get the occasional out of alignment carabiner but it is not often and always self-corrects if loaded suddenly.
Last edited:
Does the carabiner rotate in either direction or always in the same direction ? If you turn the carabiner so the gate is on the other side still with nose down, does it rotate in the same direction as before or no ?
Taking your advice, this is how I have been running my HH. I weigh about 160 lbs, and like yourself having been running 4 wraps on my hitch. A game changer for me, and it has made a great tool even better.
Last edited:
- Location
- Northern CA
Using the hh2 with a swivel(pulley) has made it so much more better. I use the rook and it's perfect. Also, Sterling flex 8mm has been Great. Thank you Sterling, it's worked with 12.5 16 strand, db 11.7, 11.5, 5 wraps. And thanks @yoyoman for showing that rook/hh combo
Last edited:
shankenstein
New member
- Location
- Twin Cities
I've been running the HH2 for a couple months now and really coming to enjoy it. Normal setup has been Vortex and ocean poly 10 mm, 5 wrap hitch. That's been really great, tends very well, but I was running my hitch a tad loose so I had to set it once in a while.
Today tried running velocity with 8 mm bee line. I like it but have to run the hitch nice and tight or it's too jerky descending. Gonna try a few hitches before settling but I am pretty happy so far after hearing the HH2 doesn't like 11 mm rope.
Also, just got around to adding a fixe pulley as a fair lead, same setup that most of you run. I've only got a little time on that particular setup so far, but my impression is that the system tends slack better without the pulley. Without the pulley, you tend slack upwards and the rope engages and pulls the carabiner upwards. I think this extra contact keeps the carabiner from side loading. I am pretty sure that the smaller diameter rope does allow for a little more lateral movement of the carabiner though.
I really prefer having the ability to take several arm lengths of rope between tending when coming in from a limb walk. I will probably do a comparison this weekend to see if the system performs better with/without a fair lead when using a 3to1 on limbwalks.
Today tried running velocity with 8 mm bee line. I like it but have to run the hitch nice and tight or it's too jerky descending. Gonna try a few hitches before settling but I am pretty happy so far after hearing the HH2 doesn't like 11 mm rope.
Also, just got around to adding a fixe pulley as a fair lead, same setup that most of you run. I've only got a little time on that particular setup so far, but my impression is that the system tends slack better without the pulley. Without the pulley, you tend slack upwards and the rope engages and pulls the carabiner upwards. I think this extra contact keeps the carabiner from side loading. I am pretty sure that the smaller diameter rope does allow for a little more lateral movement of the carabiner though.
I really prefer having the ability to take several arm lengths of rope between tending when coming in from a limb walk. I will probably do a comparison this weekend to see if the system performs better with/without a fair lead when using a 3to1 on limbwalks.
Cereal_Killer
Branched out member
- Location
- Ohio
Hey guys, what's the smallest Ø rope the HH will run on?
Just got back from my first tree-camping outting with the HH and, well, let's just say the site access was MUCH more challenging than I was expecting and rope weight is now a larger concern of mine...
I'll only be using this for specialized remote-location recreation climbing so it doesn't have to run as smoothly as the 11.7mm and 1/2" lines I use already but I was hoping maybe I could run some 9 or 10mm kernmantle rope? I'd really like to hear if 9mm HTP would work, maybe with 6-7mm cord?
Just got back from my first tree-camping outting with the HH and, well, let's just say the site access was MUCH more challenging than I was expecting and rope weight is now a larger concern of mine...
I'll only be using this for specialized remote-location recreation climbing so it doesn't have to run as smoothly as the 11.7mm and 1/2" lines I use already but I was hoping maybe I could run some 9 or 10mm kernmantle rope? I'd really like to hear if 9mm HTP would work, maybe with 6-7mm cord?
I climb on the 9mm HTP regularly, and you're right about the hitch cord diameter. I first used the Sterling 7mm accessory cord and that works great. A 6mm cord seems to grab more, and with the smaller diameter, it's hard to grip to push it down to descend.
I don't know how the HH will work with that small of a diameter. It might bottom out before pinching the rope enough.
I don't know how the HH will work with that small of a diameter. It might bottom out before pinching the rope enough.
Cereal_Killer
Branched out member
- Location
- Ohio
@Brocky what device do you use on the 9mm HTP?
Sounds like (assuming it'll even work in the HH) that a wood ring around the rope above the hitch might be a good idea trying to run the small stuff.
Sounds like (assuming it'll even work in the HH) that a wood ring around the rope above the hitch might be a good idea trying to run the small stuff.
I use a hitch called the Oval VT, which is four wraps with a braid in the front. An overhand knot is then tied with the tails behind the rope, and an oval carabiner, or if the rope and hitch cord are small enough, a large ring, is placed between the front braid and the rope. The eyes come out to the front through the carabiner, or ring.
Below is a 9mm lanyard with about a 6.5 mm hitch cord. On my climb line I use a steel oval carabiner instead of the ring.
Cinch Samaritans are what I call the wooden hitch helpers.
Below is a 9mm lanyard with about a 6.5 mm hitch cord. On my climb line I use a steel oval carabiner instead of the ring.
Cinch Samaritans are what I call the wooden hitch helpers.
