The first sentence of my post you quoted, reiterates that it doesn't , "... no change in tending as the shackle pivots. " Some people like that fact. I however find no improvement in function over the carabiner because the only time the carabiner moves like that is when you are tending slack, removing friction. No such change happens under load where the controlled modulation of friction matters.
Hitch hiker/2/x thread
- Thread starter RBJtree
- Start date
The first sentence of my post you quoted, reiterates that it doesn't , "... no change in tending as the shackle pivots. " Some people like that fact. I however find no improvement in function over the carabiner because the only time the carabiner moves like that is when you are tending slack, removing friction. No such change happens under load where the controlled modulation of friction matters.
RBJtree
Branched out member
- Location
- Pittsburgh
I misunderstood. Thanks for clarifying.
Joeybagodonuts
Participating member
- Location
- Boondocks
Yes RJB, exactly like that, directly on the Slic Pin. The Rig Spacer just fits inside there with a bit of room to rotate/roll with the cordage.
The downside is (& i don't even know if it's a downside), the pin sits/rests up higher in it's slot because of the Spacer causing it to grab earlier. This is the safety concern i feel i may or may not be overlooking.
I think i follow what your saying DSMc..
As far as setback, having the spacer in there creates a situation where there is only a quarter of the "slot" travel, so i believe it is engaging way way earlier.. Whether that's good, bad or has its own drawbacks all together, i do not know yet.
All in all, I have yet to figure out whether this Spacer is acting as i hoped it would, It feels like IT IS..... i can hear the spacer rolling like a sheave when i tend & the hitch seems to break easier... As to you point about tending not changing as the shackle pivots, in my mind it's a larger surface to pull the rope around, hence it should be easier to do so.
Regardless of if this works or not & regarding my concerns..
I had originally put my Smaller Pinto Spacer in there thinking it was the larger one.. it isn't as wide as the cordage & the pronounced edges of it were going to be pushing into the rope as that bottom shackle engages.. I now have the Rig Spacer in there & it seems to hug the cordage alot nicer, the pronounced edges are almost at the very edge of the cordage where they may or may not even be touching/digging into the cordage..
I'm going to give this a try in a few minutes here on quick job I need to do at home. My concerns about are more saftey than anything.. if it don't work i can just toss it, but if it does, i want to know I'm not overlooking something important.
RBJtree
Branched out member
- Location
- Pittsburgh
I think it would not be a saftey issue as it is the hitch cord that is your life support. The friction from the dogbone and biner/shackle is just making it so the hitch is easier to break free and probably gives it more finesse when decending.
When the HH first came out I experimented with many different bushings and bearings set between the HH body and held in place by the carabiner. They all worked but with only minor improvements in tending. Never gave me any indication of a safety problem, but they sure were easy to drop if you had to make a change.
I recently bought some 9.1mm Arbpro, they must have changed diameters at some point. Any idea if there are any other differences between the two sizes?
Joeybagodonuts
Participating member
- Location
- Boondocks
Hey J..
I meant to respond earlier but was in the middle of trying to get this throwline where i wanted it & splash some stuff down before i ran out of daylight. Long story short, i didn't get to experiment with the spacer today... Ran out of daylight. I am set up for tomorrow though.
To answer your question, I've tried the two cords it came with, Viper & Boa. I've also tried some IceTail & lastly Rit9mm.. As much as Rich likes the Viper, i feel it's too hard. When I'm running it on my Drenaline & the rope is flattened out a bit, it's almost as if I'm running hard plastic on hard plastic instead of a nice "textile-ly" feeling. I honestly feel as if i should be sticking with 9mm + because that's just what has always worked best in other setups.. If i don't want to end up binding at some point, it's always 9mm + i have to use when on cordage that's 11.5 +.
Extremely static cordage that doesn't change in diameter with weight also seems to help alot, just generally speaking.
RBJtree
Branched out member
- Location
- Pittsburgh
I really wanted ice tail to work good for me. I love the softness and heat resistance of it and it grabs a hard rope real well, but I just couldn't ever get it dialed in to where I had much control. It would grab hard or release completely. I might be able to do better with it, but I moved on to trying other cords and found hrc and rit to be real nice. I stick to the 100% high heat covers after years of melting polyester. I just got sick and tired of melting poly.
Jehinten
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Evansville
Its possible that I'm misremembering the exact size, it's been awhile since I ordered it. I'll look back at my order history to see if it is in fact 9.1mm.
Jehinten
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Evansville
I looked on treestuff where I bought it, it's no longer carried by them and the order history just says 9mm. I did however find an older post of mine that confirms that my hitch cord was 9.3, I've not used the 9.1 so I am unaware of any differences.
Joeybagodonuts
Participating member
- Location
- Boondocks
Cordage companies are so all over the place with exact sizing.. is it possible they just started measuring it a bit more precisely & changed nothing?
Also.. who makes ArbPro anyways.. is it a re-brand or something specific for them? For some reason i always think of warpspeed or polytech when i see the arbpro..
Jehinten
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Evansville
I don't know much on the history of it, I purchased it and the vortex on the recommendation of @DSMc and found that it worked great for me. I noticed that the construction/material felt "stickier" than the 10mm beeline that I had been using, it just had a much better grip and I could tell by just holding the hitch cord that it would. This allows the hitch to be run with less wraps and a little looser than the beeline, allowing it to tend better but still grabs great.
The two hitch cords are like comparing grip gloves to leather gloves, in my opinion, the one hitch just grabs and holds better without needing nearly the friction.
Joeybagodonuts
Participating member
- Location
- Boondocks
@Jehinten
That reference to sticky seems exactly what I'm looking for..
Right now I'm trying to break in some 8mm epi & see if it will work better once fuzzed.. I think most of my problem is engaging right now, if i barley even touch the top coil on the way up, it doesn't want to engage when i go to sit... I'm talking barley barley even touch it.. a mear brush with my pinky on that top coil will cause it... Very odd.
Anyone try that newer TS hitch cord? Wrapstar?
That reference to sticky seems exactly what I'm looking for..
Right now I'm trying to break in some 8mm epi & see if it will work better once fuzzed.. I think most of my problem is engaging right now, if i barley even touch the top coil on the way up, it doesn't want to engage when i go to sit... I'm talking barley barley even touch it.. a mear brush with my pinky on that top coil will cause it... Very odd.
Anyone try that newer TS hitch cord? Wrapstar?
Joeybagodonuts
Participating member
- Location
- Boondocks
That's an interesting 12 strand you referenced.. i notice it comes in 3/8ths. Might be something I'll try some day.
I think i got one of your hitch variations working for me.. Which one? I can't recall right at the moment.. Regardless, thanks for the link earlier this morning.
Joeybagodonuts
Participating member
- Location
- Boondocks
Aye..
When y'all are tightening your hitches on the device, your working it tight only to one side, correct? In other words your only cinching up the stevadore side? Right?
When y'all are tightening your hitches on the device, your working it tight only to one side, correct? In other words your only cinching up the stevadore side? Right?
Joeybagodonuts
Participating member
- Location
- Boondocks
I'm just thinking of the knots cinching down.. you get it tight, weight it, then you end up chasing the "sit back" of the knot.. shit.. I'm having a brain fart.. what's that called.. Creep? Setting?
Just wanted to make sure only tightening one side wasn't the reason behind certain issues..
Also.. anyone still use the rubber hose trick? I'm finding it kinda/sorta helpful.. it's deff something you gotta work with to get right, in my opinion.
Just wanted to make sure only tightening one side wasn't the reason behind certain issues..
Also.. anyone still use the rubber hose trick? I'm finding it kinda/sorta helpful.. it's deff something you gotta work with to get right, in my opinion.
I call it set back, most of the time, when referencing the total distance lost from going up or taking up slack. It is far more important to me than rope stretch in a climbing line. Bounce can be mitigated by a change in timing but set back is always the same with each setup. You want as little set back as possible for the constant, small positioning changes needed while working.
Tightening one side of the hitch is not a problem because it is, or should be, followed by a setting of the hitch, where you not only weight the rope but you twist the hitch so that both legs are equally loaded.
Never had the need to use the rubber hose trick.
Tightening one side of the hitch is not a problem because it is, or should be, followed by a setting of the hitch, where you not only weight the rope but you twist the hitch so that both legs are equally loaded.
Never had the need to use the rubber hose trick.
New threads New posts
-
test
-
-
-
-
-
Light 14 or 16" narrow kerf bar for 200t or 201t- Started by southsoundtree
- Replies: 9
-
