Hemlock spar removal in tight spot

Fairfield

Fairfield

Participating member
Location
Bucks County pa USA
The home owner was concerned about not hurting and of his undergrowth (weeds). Really this was a sweet setup. I was able to pla e my line through a crotch of a poplar lead out at its tip and run it up and back to the main trunk about 30-35ft away then down to my basil tie off. The poplar lead with this setup was getting more compression forces then downward snaping forces (hence I didnt break the lead out as if I was applying direct force to it). Worked out great line ran straight down about a foot and a half away from the spar. The only thing that would have been better is if I would have droped the spar from the ground..... but then I would have missed out on some climbing!!! Enjoy, oh and yes I do one hand some cuts to keep a feel for my snap cuts.

http://youtu.be/3YzDoREZ4IQ
 
Its a good piece of work to show a tree job in real time without it getting boring.. very efficient combination of new school srt with old school cut'n'chuk...

If you have to do a lot of up and down do you still use the id?
 
Depending on the up and down type of work I will keep the I'D on and use it as a RADS. If I have to do an ascent higher then 12 ft (twice my height) I will switch over to my ascenders (Petzl Basic and the Croll on my harness). If I have an ascent higher then 40ft I will use my foot ascender also, otherwise its just the foot loop off of the Basic.

Something that I have found to be nice is moving under and past other leads in the tree. With the I'd it is fast to remove, place rope on other side of lead and snap back in. Where as with a hitch setup you have to go over the lead and back down or untie it then retie in.
 
bigger saw would have been better for sure, but it was being used on the ground on the other side of the property. Didnt want to stop that work over there for something I was able to get away with a climbing saw. How is the climbing up in the great nord doing?
 
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