HELP!!! Rigging and Backups (Newbie here)

Learn what this stuff is, work for a while without some of it, then decide what you want. 1/2" line (i say any 16 strand rope from an arborist supply dealer because they are affordable awesome ropes that take abuse) is needed, a few webbing slings (Look it up), micro pulleys, and a rigging block or large rigging rings
 
Do not buy a beast ring it is overkill.... get the large with a deadeye... tie a cowhitch...stick with basics...get some 16 strand so you can natty crotch or dry crotch....do not buy a block yet.... get a portawrap....simple and easy to use....have fun stay safe climb high rig small.... stay alive...good luck...get two rigging ropes one for tagging if necessary....
 
Chad Gallion said:
Speedline clips? Portawrap??? Newbie here
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It sounds like you need to read.
Google image search the things you don't understand, and if seeing the things doesn't clear it up, read more about the thing. The tree climber's companion by jeff jepson is probably $20 that you would not be upset about having spent.
 
Skimmed the thread.



Buy tree rigging books! Back-ups are used in other industries, not really tree work, much. If you think need a back-up rigging line, you cut smaller or rig with two ropes effectively on the load.



Work with experienced tree workers!

Buy tree climbing books!


Then, buy the gear you understand



Getting in over your head, leads to getting dead.


Use the valuable rigging experience you have. Learn the valuable rigging experience you need.

My employee works iron, too. He almost hit me with a small log the other day because he didn't 'let it run'. He held too much, after coming back from a year of ironwork.

Minor to Serious dynamic rigging is usually the name of the tree rigging game, which I take it to be very, very different than most industrial rigging scenarios. He's an experienced rigger from iron work. Does all sorta of stuff. Never does tree work at the iron working job.
 
Running 3-strand natural crotch will get you rigging with just a couple of ropes, as already mentioned above. My rigging 3-stand of choice is Sampson's Treemaster. Practically indestructible! It will laugh at black locust bark as it saws right thru it. Downside is it's a bit stiff until broken in. Dress the knots well.
As a side note, I would not run 3-strand thru a aluminum rigging ring. A lasting rope in the rings and blocks .... I'd choose Sampson's 9/16 stable braid. Good 'medium duty' rigging rope. I use the term med duty loosely. It's a hard working rope. Just make sure you use a port-a-wrap for friction on the stablebraid. 3-strand can also be trunk wrapped for lowering.
 
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explaining rigging gear requires a discussion of techniques, rope selection and cutting technique as they all go together.. obviously beyond the scope of this thread.. so here are a few tips

First recommendation: use a port-a-wap, aka porty:
porty makes lowering much faster, and gives a lot more control as shown below....
demo here:

second is rope selection... PM me and I'll send you a link to some vid worth watching on 1/2" true blue, made by sampson.. real durable, good stretch, and easy to tie, hold knots well etc...


for blocks and slings etc I have used shackles tied to short sections of rope well before the rigging rings were brought to tree work by David Driver of Arbor X... the shackle is a poor man's ring and very useful for redirects, especially helpful for bucket work... one caution would be bend radius , so be careful not to use the shackle as the solo rigging point for anything heavy.. as soon as you use multiple overhead lowering points, as in put two shackles up, or use a hybrid system of natural crotch and shackles, blocks etc, you don't have the bend radius issue from a single shackle..

simple quick and easy use of shackle for redirect, satellite rigging point

the beginning of this video shows a hybrid system and some other tips worth watching

old school lowering a top

kind of like the crosby hook for quick tie on and off
 
NE Tree said:
https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=3&item=36 I personally think that this is one of the best rigging ropes out there. It will last longest when used with a block or ring instead of natural crotch rigging. It's my favorite anyway.
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Sorry... this is still a huge misconception in the industry.. stable braid is NOT a good rigging rope, especially for beginners... this has been covered in other threads.. 1/2" true blue is the place to start .... I beat it to death from the bucket all day, every day, taking heavy wood and limbs and it won't die... natural crotch no problem, allows a lot more options
 
I would hesitate to say stable braid isn't good, it is great running through all rings ,shakles,pulleys or blocks, but double braids don't perform well when natural crotch rigged as a 12 or 3 strand would . The cover and core of double braids on a rough surface like a Natty crotch don't diffuse the energy in friction the rope finds the cover taking the brunt of the load hence taking it's stregth away. Its a speed thing cocer and core don't move together is my understanding.I like ture blue and all gear 12 foresry pro for mix rigging like Daniel mentioned. I like rigging lines that melt evenly over a union, can dispose of and not care about cutting more off my spool..cuase it's in expensive...haha
 
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My instructor always said, “You can remove a tree with a belt sander.” If I were to start out again, I’d use:

1/2” Dynasorb 150’- rigging line
1/2” 3 strand 150’- tag line
1- 2.6 Rock Exotica Omni Block
1- 1.5 Rock Exotica Omni Block
1- Port-a-wrap
2- 1/2” Tenex dead eye slings
1- 5/8” Tenex dead eye sling

If you go to Treestuff.com and look around, you’ll get some ideas and see some tutorial videos! Low and slow.
 
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