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I would go to the ISA and ASCA websites and search for BCMAs or RCAs in your area as well as asking around for the best tree care companies in your state. This tree needs some very specific work done to it with proper follow up care.
Mrtree posted a few names earlier you should look into.
....I have another local arborist ....He suggested nutrient spikes every 3 feet around the drip line of the tree, as in the ones you buy from lowes.....
Thank you Guy, I may take you up on that. Mt Rainer is about 40 minutes west of me.When was that house built?
The first thing to do is to get clear on the root LOSS, not 'damage'. Pics show a huge amount of root loss.
Good move leaving the company that pushes N fert; unconscionable.
Mycorrhizal material may well be good to apply; unlike N, no harm in trying that.
Drainage patterns key to look at and mitigate via deep aeration where possible.
I'll be in Mt. Rainier near DC next month; check website if you'd like an estimate.
Thank you very much. I would say it has been stable, but not improved over the last 5 years despite efforts with several arborists (although none i would quality as "good") theyre whats available in my region.If that beech has declined further than the thinning showed in the original pictures, you need to set realistic expectations that it may be too far gone to save. That having been said, if you're interested in throwing the kitchen sink at it in an effort to prove me wrong, call Organic Approach in Lancaster PA and ask for Josh.
Thats a fair statement, and I definitely left out some details. I have had 3 separate arborists over that period, none of which I was satisfied with. One did a couple liquid fertilizer applications, the other recommended I hammer 100 fertilizer spikes into the CRZ (ignored that one and stopped working with them), and the third ghosted me after an initial consult.If you're only analyzing the soil and skipping a foliar analysis, you're only getting half the picture.
Also in reviewing the photos, it looks like there is/was a giant pile of mulch near the stem of the tree. A pile that large is liable to overheat the soil and cook the roots as it decomposes, and at a minimum, would prevent water infiltration and gas exchange in the area beneath the pile.
I would also point out that if you haven't engaged a truly competent arborist, you may well have wasted 5 years of time and allowed the tree to decline further.
50 likes on Treebuzz isn't going to do a thing for that tree.
2010jbrukard,
When (year aproxx) did you first begin your involvement with the care/stewardship of this Beech? I read some of your watering posts on the tree too, and I am curious about the answer.