Help me save a 200+ year old specimen beech.

I would go to the ISA and ASCA websites and search for BCMAs or RCAs in your area as well as asking around for the best tree care companies in your state. This tree needs some very specific work done to it with proper follow up care.

Michael Galvin is local, and was recommended earlier, but im not sure I am exactly important enough for his time.

Both the previous gentlemen i have had out are ISA certified and showed up in the lists
  • ISA Certified Arborist®
  • ISA Tree Risk Assessment Qualification
However, the closest BCMA is about 50 miles out.
 
This is Sylvia, the "S" in DSMc.

Standard protocol is not to fertilize a stressed tree. The amount of development and change around this tree in the last few years is extensive. Those changes need to be considered. The tree itself has been growing in this native soil, with its low pH and low nutrient level, for a very long time. What suddenly changed? Add in those factors.

Plus, why is this tree the only tree apparently affected? In the post damage photo the original poster gave us, you see many trees apparently NOT affected. Why is that?

The American Beech has a heart-shape root system, some go deep, some stay shallow. The shallow root system tends to be dense and fibrous. I would NOT air spade this tree in the only area that has perhaps NOT been disturbed.

A very good idea is to get someone on site who has the expertise and ability to look not only at the tree, but the soil as well, including drainage patterns and characteristics (not just nutrient level). Who can look out beyond the canopy (the roots don't stop there).
 
Excellent points. I would also want to see a foliar nutrient test for comparison to the soil. Particularly for low Ca, Mg, and Mn.
Also wondering if this region has been exposed to acid deposition and other forms of pollution. K Smith has published on this subject in the east and north east.
 
When was that house built?
The first thing to do is to get clear on the root LOSS, not 'damage'. Pics show a huge amount of root loss.

Good move leaving the company that pushes N fert; unconscionable.
Mycorrhizal material may well be good to apply; unlike N, no harm in trying that.
Drainage patterns key to look at and mitigate via deep aeration where possible.

I'll be in Mt. Rainier near DC next month; check website if you'd like an estimate.
 
When was that house built?
The first thing to do is to get clear on the root LOSS, not 'damage'. Pics show a huge amount of root loss.

Good move leaving the company that pushes N fert; unconscionable.
Mycorrhizal material may well be good to apply; unlike N, no harm in trying that.
Drainage patterns key to look at and mitigate via deep aeration where possible.

I'll be in Mt. Rainier near DC next month; check website if you'd like an estimate.
Thank you Guy, I may take you up on that. Mt Rainer is about 40 minutes west of me.

Ill take a look at the website when i get off work.

The house was built in 1925.
 
Too much of a good thing is not a good thing. Sounds like this tree needs a miracle. Air spading that entire root system may not be the best thing for the treet. I would think radial trenching would be a safer alternative.


You could try the tree Whisperer if you like. I can put you in touch with him
 
Hey all... been about 5 years since I last posted here. Unfortunately not a ton of good news in regards to this Beech. Its still alive, but gets sparser every years and has been losing branches pretty regularly.

Id like to give another shot at getting at least stabilizing it. Did another soil sample and would like some advice on how best to augment any nutrients the tree could use. It still has incredibly high iron, but some of the other deficiencies are slightly better.

Since we all last talked, ive brought the organic matter levels up around the tree though distribution of a bunch of decayed mulch humus, and did a low-nitrogen fertilization a few years back.

Nutrient analysis from 2017: Nutrient analysis from 2022:
Looks like im in a good range for pH now, but somehow my organic material has only very slightly increased.

Can someone recommend product or treatment to try to bring the nutrient levels to a more appropriate level?
 
If you're only analyzing the soil and skipping a foliar analysis, you're only getting half the picture.

Also in reviewing the photos, it looks like there is/was a giant pile of mulch near the stem of the tree. A pile that large is liable to overheat the soil and cook the roots as it decomposes, and at a minimum, would prevent water infiltration and gas exchange in the area beneath the pile.

I would also point out that if you haven't engaged a truly competent arborist, you may well have wasted 5 years of time and allowed the tree to decline further.

50 likes on Treebuzz isn't going to do a thing for that tree.
 
If that beech has declined further than the thinning showed in the original pictures, you need to set realistic expectations that it may be too far gone to save. That having been said, if you're interested in throwing the kitchen sink at it in an effort to prove me wrong, call Organic Approach in Lancaster PA and ask for Josh.
 
If that beech has declined further than the thinning showed in the original pictures, you need to set realistic expectations that it may be too far gone to save. That having been said, if you're interested in throwing the kitchen sink at it in an effort to prove me wrong, call Organic Approach in Lancaster PA and ask for Josh.
Thank you very much. I would say it has been stable, but not improved over the last 5 years despite efforts with several arborists (although none i would quality as "good") theyre whats available in my region.

Ill give you a call this week. Im actually glad to know if your company, always valuable to find another supplier of humic and fulvic acids/kelp/etc
 
If you're only analyzing the soil and skipping a foliar analysis, you're only getting half the picture.

Also in reviewing the photos, it looks like there is/was a giant pile of mulch near the stem of the tree. A pile that large is liable to overheat the soil and cook the roots as it decomposes, and at a minimum, would prevent water infiltration and gas exchange in the area beneath the pile.

I would also point out that if you haven't engaged a truly competent arborist, you may well have wasted 5 years of time and allowed the tree to decline further.

50 likes on Treebuzz isn't going to do a thing for that tree.
Thats a fair statement, and I definitely left out some details. I have had 3 separate arborists over that period, none of which I was satisfied with. One did a couple liquid fertilizer applications, the other recommended I hammer 100 fertilizer spikes into the CRZ (ignored that one and stopped working with them), and the third ghosted me after an initial consult.
The names of the true professionals listed in this thread in 2017 were truly appreciated, but upon reaching out to them they either werent taking new clients, or I was outside their region.

Re: the mulch pile, that was moved almost immediately after those photos were taken and distributed 3-4 inches deep around the entire CRZ to improve organic material and promote water retention. I checked on it a couple time a year to make sure it wasnt matted or blocking oxygen. Its all "dirt" now.
 
jbrukard,

When (year aproxx) did you first begin your involvement with the care/stewardship of this Beech? I read some of your watering posts on the tree too, and I am curious about the answer.
 

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