Has anyone seen these knots before?

D

Dan_House

Location
Kansas City
Has anyone seen this "tail tuck" type of Lock Off before?

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=539209822849560&set=pcb.539211319516077&type=1&theater

I like the way the tail of this Blake's Hitch is locked off without a stopper knot on the bitter end because it folds up nice and tight.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=539209916182884&set=pcb.539211319516077&type=1&theater

10441946_539209916182884_5733284696973194052_n.jpg
 
Nope. Looks like a bight was pulled through instead of the tail, and then the tail of that tucked. Sorta like Daisy chained. If it works it works.
 
Yeah half of me wants to say that the Blake's Hitch is so 1998. But the other half misses how well that knot fit in my hand. My fingers get hot now when zipping out of a tree on these smaller cords. Still, it'd be hard to give up a VT.
 
i would leave enough rope out to make a figure eight just to be safe. i prefer to climb with the valtodain tresse with a micro pulley, but thats just me.
 
How does that change the function of the hitch? I think one of the key element of a Blake's is the fact that the bottom two turns wrap around two "legs", one leg being stationary inside the hitch, the other leg is the actual running end. How does having three "legs" in there change the action of the hitch? I'm gonna try it myself tomorrow. Yes I would be concerned about the security of that bight lock/daisy chain. Also a good point was made about dressing the hitch while in use, would be impractical with this configuration, but I'll have to try it to find out I guess.

Yeah, E2Es make life better, but you better know your Blake's, and Tautline before you call yourself a tree climber.
 
I get what you all are saying and can see some faults but since I want all my friction hitches to be self-advancing here is yet another variation.

Tuck the tail as suggested but leave enough tail to tie another Blake's Hitch with a short bridge on the up rope so as you pull down the BH stays advanced.

This is a variation that Tim Kovar suggested in his Tech Tips over at the NewTribe.com site which he learned from Ambassador Abe Winters.

http://www.newtribe.com/documents/tip2.htm

tengu2photo.gif
 
Only way I would even think about that is with the self tending Blakes Hitch stopper knot. Then I would be concerned that someone might use it with out the stopper knot. Probably worse than a bowline with a yosemite tie off. (JUST KIDDING)



Here is a couple of thoughts I had about the Blakes, just to keep in touch with the basics.

P.S. edit, I certainly would not use the F8 at the biner as it is not a cinching knot and there seems to be such better choices like the anchor or scaffold (fishermans). IMO
 
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Dan_House said:
I get what you all are saying and can see some faults but since I want all my friction hitches to be self-advancing here is yet another variation.

Tuck the tail as suggested but leave enough tail to tie another Blake's Hitch with a short bridge on the up rope so as you pull down the BH stays advanced.

This is a variation that Tim Kovar suggested in his Tech Tips over at the NewTribe.com site which he learned from Ambassador Abe Winters.

http://www.newtribe.com/documents/tip2.htm

tengu2photo.gif
Click to expand...
What would this 2nd blake be for?
 
Dan, I can't imagine where this would be helpful in the world of arboriculture. Why would you use a fig 8 stopper knot in the closed bridge?
 
yoyoman said:
Only way I would even think about that is with the self tending Blakes Hitch stopper knot. Then I would be concerned that someone might use it with out the stopper knot. Probably worse than a bowline with a yosemite tie off. (JUST KIDDING)



Here is a couple of thoughts I had about the Blakes, just to keep in touch with the basics.

P.S. edit, I certainly would not use the F8 at the biner as it is not a cinching knot and there seems to be such better choices like the anchor or scaffold (fishermans). IMO
Click to expand...


Rich, great video! It is a nice overview and lesson on the versatility of the Blakes Hitch. Your link brings me to your most recent upload, but having seen your Blakes video back when you posted it a few months ago I figured this was the one you were referring to:

 
Ha, the old "Double Blake's"! That's a classic bit of knotwork there. Yes, self advancing like the "O-Rig" but takes about 12 feet of rope to tie. The fig 8 stopper in the bridge was to signify which leg of rope to CUT in case of a rescue - way old school, cool pic.
 
Dan_House said:
I get what you all are saying and can see some faults but since I want all my friction hitches to be self-advancing here is yet another variation.

Tuck the tail as suggested but leave enough tail to tie another Blake's Hitch with a short bridge on the up rope so as you pull down the BH stays advanced.

This is a variation that Tim Kovar suggested in his Tech Tips over at the NewTribe.com site which he learned from Ambassador Abe Winters.

http://www.newtribe.com/documents/tip2.htm

tengu2photo.gif
Click to expand...
This was first shown by Robert Phillips of California. Cool idea. He said he had a really long split tail that he didn't know what to do with and the rest is history.
 
John_KAYS said:
Rich, great video! It is a nice overview and lesson on the versatility of the Blakes Hitch. Your link brings me to your most recent upload, but having ....
Click to expand...
Thanks for fixing my error, too many logs in the fire. The point of that video was using a super short bridge and anchor hitch to position the Blakes so that even if you're not trying the second Blake's hitch it will self tend without having to push the knot up your rope.
Thanks
 
Ah yes...the old f8 to mark the "in case of emergency, cut here please"...never made it all that big in arboriculture though...funny thing; stick one somewhere with a sj or e2e or a zz...hmmmm.
 
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