Harnesses can break

I’m in the process of moving from Southern Germany to Northern Scotland at the moment. A few days ago I was in the cellar sorting through work gear, everything from new and unused to ‘older’. Amongst that collection were a number of harnesses that I had kept in that dark and well ventilated environment ‘just in case’ they were needed. To save space on the move, they were cut up and binned. Rather glad I did it now, they would probably have only come out of retirement for friends of my kids to do rec. climbs in. The thought of one of them hitting the floor though my negligence is haunting.

Saved the hardware though, you never know how it might come in useful……!

Can’t help thinking that the discussion about harnesses might be better continued on a different but related thread. Not wishing to be antagonistic, but personally, I feel uneasy about the product positioning in the wake of a fatality.

Paolo
I’m sure that durability is a characteristic that most harness manufacturers rank highly during product development and prototype evaluation.

Can I ask you to reference your comment about 45mm webbing? Is this an ANSI standard? The 2002 version of EN361 that I have in front of me calls for webbing in primary support to have a minimum width of 40mm (section 4.2). This should be read with the following paragraph which (to me) implies that the width of loading is a key parameter, not that the width of all primary webbing must be 40mm or more e.g. 2 x 22mm = 44mm.

For reference, prEN813:2005 uses slightly broader wording, stating that ‘…width of support where load bearing parts impact with the body shall be a minimum of 43mm…’ (section 4.2.3.2). Won’t quote any more for fear of copyright hassles!

Manufacturers are one source of reference. Their answers are however likely to reflect what appears in their product range. I have found manufacturers knowledge and understanding to be of very variable quality. To some, R+D means ‘rip-off and duplicate’, their interest in development is minimal. But I’m sure you have found this too?

Notified bodies (test houses) are another source of reference, although in my experience they would give the same wide spectrum of answers (much as if one were to ask a group of climbers a given question…..unless of course you were asking if they wanted a beer!).

I know also that even standards committee members can have different views on individual issues!

My point? There is no single definitive authority on these subjects. Some issues just aren’t that black and white. Standards (anywhere in the world) are often out of date before they are published, partly because committee members are not normally practitioners, or lack contact with them. Their objective (amongst many other things) is to ensure that prescribed minimum standards are achieved. If an advance is made in design, it may or may not conform to the (outdated) standard, depending on which Notified Body you then discuss this design concept with. The spirit of the standard is what is most important i.e. that the product is safe, ergonomic, practical, meets the needs of the user, easily inspected, clear user guidance etc, etc. Getting caught up in 45mm (or otherwise) may or may not be helpful for the end user.

All I'm saying is....there's more than one way to skin a cat (apologies to cat lovers.....of which I am not one).

And just so that we are clear, I am not talking about either of our products here.

Chris
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Treemagineers – all for the trees and none for a fall!
 
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Not wishing to be antagonistic, but personally, I feel uneasy about the product positioning in the wake of a fatality.



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I totally agree with this statement.
 
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(apologies to cat lovers.....of which I am not one).


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You made a lot of intelligent constructive points in your post Chris Cowell.

Then you lost all credibility with this last statement.
I mean, how can you be expected to be taken seriously when you state a hatred for an entire species of animal.
What about Tom from Tom and Jerry?
He just wanted to kick the mouse's a** what's wrong with that?
 
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And just so that we are clear, I am not talking about either of our products here.


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What is the product your talking about?
 
Very sad story.
I suppose he knew the risks.
Like all us climbers do.
You can never eliminate the risk of death or injury from our job, all you can do is minimise it.
Climb safe guys.
 
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I heard on the news (radio) that Todd ran out of rope during the rappel. Very common accident.

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Well, I wonder which it was???
 
Re: A possible backup for the problem...

The actual article is unclear about exactly what happened, how far he fell, etc., and whether he was clipped into the belay loop with a caribiner, or had tied in directly with the rope.

The instructions on rock climbing harnesses I've seen, including my own, say that with a rope, you tie in through the waist and leg straps. With a biner, you should clip in ONLY to the belay loop, NOT through the leg and waist strap. The standard reason given is that clipping a biner through the waist and leg straps makes it far more likely to cross-load the biner, vastly decreasing its effective strength.

A climber friend of mine just pointed out that if someone was up on the wall and had, say, accidentally obviously damaged the belay loop, he could make a quickie backup belay loop simply by taking webbing or rope, making a turn or two parallel to the original loop, but slightly larger than the original loop, and securing those turns into a loop. The climber would then clip his biner through both the original belay loop and the backup one. The 'backup' belay loop, being a bit larger than the original, would not have any effect or function unless the original loop failed. If the original belay loop failed, the backup loop would, after a fall of an inch or so, save the climber's life.

I don't like Monday morning quarterbacking. But in this case, I think my friend's suggestion makes a lot of sense to keep in mind if any us are in a position where we have a known or suspected damaged or weak belay loop.
 

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