GriGri???
- Thread starter bwktreeserv
- Start date
- Location
- Tonimbuk, Victoria, Australia
This is what I'm using after I read up on the Gri Gri. Essentially from Donney's SRT manual.
- Location
- Tonimbuk, Victoria, Australia
Hi Oceans,
If I understand you your just poking a bite of rope through the 8, hooking the biner through the bite much like what Kevin did with the 8 and revolver before the wrench so as the friction isn't as great as hitching it through and around the 8?
If I understand you your just poking a bite of rope through the 8, hooking the biner through the bite much like what Kevin did with the 8 and revolver before the wrench so as the friction isn't as great as hitching it through and around the 8?
Yup, that's it, Tony. A ring could be used as well (in place of the F8) to create the same effect.
I keep my hitch above the F8, and both the hitch and F8 are on the same leg as to maintain a choke around the base.
My respectful constructive criticism of your base anchor would be to put the hitch (which will hold until loaded to a point of slipping) where the F8 is located, and the F8 below the hitch.
I've looked over the setup, and it seems like if the F8 were to go slack and allow rope to pass through, when reloaded, the hitch wouldn't create the choke effect. Essentially, your choke is created by something that could allow the rope move, and the hitch will release the choke when loaded...
...or am I seeing that totally wrong?
I keep my hitch above the F8, and both the hitch and F8 are on the same leg as to maintain a choke around the base.
My respectful constructive criticism of your base anchor would be to put the hitch (which will hold until loaded to a point of slipping) where the F8 is located, and the F8 below the hitch.
I've looked over the setup, and it seems like if the F8 were to go slack and allow rope to pass through, when reloaded, the hitch wouldn't create the choke effect. Essentially, your choke is created by something that could allow the rope move, and the hitch will release the choke when loaded...
...or am I seeing that totally wrong?
flyingsquirrel25
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- South East, PA
moss
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Carlisle, Massachusetts, U.S.
Looks good. One question, isn't the hitch above the F8 going to grip too hard in a rescue scenario?
-AJ
-AJ
- Location
- rhode island
That last picture is pretty much what Oceans is running except he's got a hitchclimber involved. Squirrel, one problem I see with your set-up is that if things do slip your backup knot will get jammed onto the biner and you'll never get it off.
- Location
- Tonimbuk, Victoria, Australia
Hey Oceans, never fear to criticize constructively, I enjoy widening my knowledge base and objective opinion is a key element to achieving that.
I am not quite sure about the issues you raise. When I originally went to this setup I tested it by slacking the line and the whole set up "lied over" as one as such to the choke around the barrel, essentially it "flopped". Then returned to its original setting when the line was weighted. I did this a number of times to ensure the components would hold correct orientation and the hitch set (it never unset). I think I understand what your saying and will have a closer inspection and further testing when next setting it up. (This was a quick demo set up just for the pic, and I noticed I didn't girth hitch the choking prussic around the biner connected to the F8 in the pic. My bad)
I thought your setup flying squirrel is good, I wouldn't mind simplifying what I'm using somewhat and that could be it.
I do share the same reservation as AJ, I thought one of the key reasons for the hitch being under the F8 was so the the force was reduced on the hitch?
The only thing I can see is that this setup is relying on the tip friction as the line runs during lowering to assist in reducing the force on the hitch?
LOL, not sure if I'm missing something now.
I am not quite sure about the issues you raise. When I originally went to this setup I tested it by slacking the line and the whole set up "lied over" as one as such to the choke around the barrel, essentially it "flopped". Then returned to its original setting when the line was weighted. I did this a number of times to ensure the components would hold correct orientation and the hitch set (it never unset). I think I understand what your saying and will have a closer inspection and further testing when next setting it up. (This was a quick demo set up just for the pic, and I noticed I didn't girth hitch the choking prussic around the biner connected to the F8 in the pic. My bad)
I thought your setup flying squirrel is good, I wouldn't mind simplifying what I'm using somewhat and that could be it.
I do share the same reservation as AJ, I thought one of the key reasons for the hitch being under the F8 was so the the force was reduced on the hitch?
The only thing I can see is that this setup is relying on the tip friction as the line runs during lowering to assist in reducing the force on the hitch?
LOL, not sure if I'm missing something now.
moss
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Carlisle, Massachusetts, U.S.
[ QUOTE ]
That last picture is pretty much what Oceans is running except he's got a hitchclimber involved.
[/ QUOTE ]
The HC would solve the problem of the hitch being above the F8.
-AJ
That last picture is pretty much what Oceans is running except he's got a hitchclimber involved.
[/ QUOTE ]
The HC would solve the problem of the hitch being above the F8.
-AJ
- Location
- Tonimbuk, Victoria, Australia
I'm not quite understanding how the a HC assists if the hitch is above the F8? Is it you can assist with load by pulling the tail against the HC pulley? I guess if you need to lift for some reason you can set a rads up to get the advantage required and subsequent capture.
moss
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Carlisle, Massachusetts, U.S.
Sorry about that Tony, device confusion, I was thinking replace the hitch above the F8 with a Hitch Hiker (not a Hitch Climber).
-AJ
-AJ
- Location
- Tonimbuk, Victoria, Australia
[ QUOTE ]
Sorry about that Tony, device confusion, I was thinking replace the hitch above the F8 with a Hitch Hiker (not a Hitch Climber).
-AJ
[/ QUOTE ]
No worries AJ, had me thinking, bit of mental exercise is healthy.
You've turned on a light thou, I wonder how a HH could be used and would perform in a basil anchor/rescue set up (really well I'd expect). With the exception of the odd removal I am for the most part climbing on a wrench so the HH is available. You wouldn't even need an 8. Yeah I wonder....
Sorry about that Tony, device confusion, I was thinking replace the hitch above the F8 with a Hitch Hiker (not a Hitch Climber).
-AJ
[/ QUOTE ]
No worries AJ, had me thinking, bit of mental exercise is healthy.
You've turned on a light thou, I wonder how a HH could be used and would perform in a basil anchor/rescue set up (really well I'd expect). With the exception of the odd removal I am for the most part climbing on a wrench so the HH is available. You wouldn't even need an 8. Yeah I wonder....
flyingsquirrel25
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- South East, PA
[ QUOTE ]
Looks good. One question, isn't the hitch above the F8 going to grip too hard in a rescue scenario?
-AJ
[/ QUOTE ]
Moss that is a good question... I think when I first started using it, we tried it... But its been a while. My though is it gripped hard to begin with but was then once broke free it was mobile. The idea when using this is that the rescuer uses the f8 to lower and holds the friction hitch loose (once free).
I will have to try and set it up the other way (f8 on top) and see if it makes a difference. With as often as I use it, it might be a while.
Banjo, very true... Never thought about it I guess, because I wouldnt expect the hitch to move... but possible. A seperate non locking biner would solve that I think.
Thanks
Looks good. One question, isn't the hitch above the F8 going to grip too hard in a rescue scenario?
-AJ
[/ QUOTE ]
Moss that is a good question... I think when I first started using it, we tried it... But its been a while. My though is it gripped hard to begin with but was then once broke free it was mobile. The idea when using this is that the rescuer uses the f8 to lower and holds the friction hitch loose (once free).
I will have to try and set it up the other way (f8 on top) and see if it makes a difference. With as often as I use it, it might be a while.
Banjo, very true... Never thought about it I guess, because I wouldnt expect the hitch to move... but possible. A seperate non locking biner would solve that I think.
Thanks
moss
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Carlisle, Massachusetts, U.S.
[ QUOTE ]
You've turned on a light thou, I wonder how a HH could be used and would perform in a basil anchor/rescue set up (really well I'd expect). With the exception of the odd removal I am for the most part climbing on a wrench so the HH is available. You wouldn't even need an 8. Yeah I wonder....
[/ QUOTE ]
Yeah, I think the HH would be excellent for SRT lowering, simple setup, intuitive to operate. With an F8 below it even better since the HH balances load so well.
-AJ
You've turned on a light thou, I wonder how a HH could be used and would perform in a basil anchor/rescue set up (really well I'd expect). With the exception of the odd removal I am for the most part climbing on a wrench so the HH is available. You wouldn't even need an 8. Yeah I wonder....
[/ QUOTE ]
Yeah, I think the HH would be excellent for SRT lowering, simple setup, intuitive to operate. With an F8 below it even better since the HH balances load so well.
-AJ
- Location
- St. Paul, MN
[ QUOTE ]
I've looked over the setup, and it seems like if the F8 were to go slack and allow rope to pass through, when reloaded, the hitch wouldn't create the choke effect. Essentially, your choke is created by something that could allow the rope move, and the hitch will release the choke when loaded...
[/ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I am not quite sure about the issues you raise. When I originally went to this setup I tested it by slacking the line and the whole set up "lied over" as one as such to the choke around the barrel, essentially it "flopped". Then returned to its original setting when the line was weighted. I did this a number of times to ensure the components would hold correct orientation and the hitch set (it never unset). I think I understand what your saying and will have a closer inspection and further testing when next setting it up. (This was a quick demo set up just for the pic, and I noticed I didn't girth hitch the choking prussic around the biner connected to the F8 in the pic. My bad)
[/ QUOTE ]
I agree with Eric, here. Surely, if the hitch is called upon to hold the load it will un-choke the base anchor.
I've looked over the setup, and it seems like if the F8 were to go slack and allow rope to pass through, when reloaded, the hitch wouldn't create the choke effect. Essentially, your choke is created by something that could allow the rope move, and the hitch will release the choke when loaded...
[/ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I am not quite sure about the issues you raise. When I originally went to this setup I tested it by slacking the line and the whole set up "lied over" as one as such to the choke around the barrel, essentially it "flopped". Then returned to its original setting when the line was weighted. I did this a number of times to ensure the components would hold correct orientation and the hitch set (it never unset). I think I understand what your saying and will have a closer inspection and further testing when next setting it up. (This was a quick demo set up just for the pic, and I noticed I didn't girth hitch the choking prussic around the biner connected to the F8 in the pic. My bad)
[/ QUOTE ]
I agree with Eric, here. Surely, if the hitch is called upon to hold the load it will un-choke the base anchor.
- Location
- Tonimbuk, Victoria, Australia
I can see where Oceans is coming from now, its never budged to date. But I am now skeptical of the reliability if loaded heavily. It requires further investigation and scrutiny for sure. I appreciate the candid views.
Tony, can you run both devices through the choke? That's what I've been doing with good results. With everything adjustable, you can tune the 'flop factor' down to zilch.
One thing I love about a base anchored climbing system is how well they can improve the safe climbing of "edge" trees...trees at the edge of a homeowner's yard that grew with poor architecture due to phototropism following the lot being cleared years prior. When I set the PSP, the anchored side usually runs to the base of another tree rather far away from the one I'm climbing. The angle of the rope coming off the base anchor can sometimes be quite low due to this, and being able to adjust the flop out is a good thing. For this reason, I like having the prusik take the load, and use the F8 as added friction if needed. If not, it can always be adjusted by allowing the prusik to hold the load before doing so.
Keep working with it...it looks like you've got all the right tools.
One thing I love about a base anchored climbing system is how well they can improve the safe climbing of "edge" trees...trees at the edge of a homeowner's yard that grew with poor architecture due to phototropism following the lot being cleared years prior. When I set the PSP, the anchored side usually runs to the base of another tree rather far away from the one I'm climbing. The angle of the rope coming off the base anchor can sometimes be quite low due to this, and being able to adjust the flop out is a good thing. For this reason, I like having the prusik take the load, and use the F8 as added friction if needed. If not, it can always be adjusted by allowing the prusik to hold the load before doing so.
Keep working with it...it looks like you've got all the right tools.
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