GRCS tips

Dont lose it. :)

Placing a block or strong micro pulley just above the GRCS on the stem can reduce some of the heavy loads that get put on the fairleads. Its also necessary for any horizontal pulling.
 
Set it up for almost every tree you want to rig.... Even the simple, easy ones. You have to force yourself to do it sometimes but it also helps you learn how to use it. We put it upon just about every tree we rig, so much so that our porty gets used maybe once a month. The GRCS comes out several times a week.
The set up becomes faster and more secure the more you use it so use it often.
We also found that we needed to add to our rigging equipment. We added 2 blocks, larger slings, longer slings, and different kinds of rope for different uses. We really notice differences in stretch between manufacturers and we use that knowledge to our advantage. It really changed the way we rig and experience was the best teacher for us.
 
Use it frequently. Like mentioned it's worth using any tree. I believe it's a more precise braking device for a number of reasons the a Pow.

-you can take up slack as a log/branch is coming off the cut.
-if your doing a big removal it's pretty easy to cut a flat spot on the trunk to minimize sliding up with loads. It serves the same purpose as the visor plate accessory.
-if you've got a second groundie available, and the situation allows you can have one prepare to brake while the other winches the load off the cut. (don't put the rope in the self tailer, just use the proper amount of wraps for lowering)
-don't skimp on securing it. Make good habits. You might end up using it for bigger stuff the you planned and that could be a good thing.
-paint the bar and handle
-use the handle to carry the winch and keep track of itself too
 
I set an eye sling with a timbe hitch, then hang the GRCS from the top fairlead, that way I can set the strap myself.

Once its up, i remove the eye sling.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Dont lose it. :)

Placing a block or strong micro pulley just above the GRCS on the stem can reduce some of the heavy loads that get put on the fairleads. Its also necessary for any horizontal pulling.

[/ QUOTE ]

Order a single, large X rigging ring on a sling and use this instead of block or micro pulley. It's the bee's knees!

Tony
 
Tony, that sounds like a great application! I will make one up just for that, thanks.

I will add, I dont feel like the GRCS is as adept for pure lowering jobs as say a port-a-wrap or similar lowering device. We have both an older model, with the opposite J fairleads on 3 sides; and a new model with the pop-out pigtail style fairleads. The older model is a horror to try and lower with, maybe if one person is dedicated to nothing but holding the rope at the right angle it could work. It is extremely difficult, for me, to keep the wraps from binding up. The newer pig tail fairleads make a drastic difference compared to the older ones and for the most part address this issue but not entirely.

To me the PW or other LDs just work better for simple lowering. If we dont need a GRCS we dont set it up. If I was a small, owner operated crew I could certainly see myself wanting to utilize it more to realize an investment. I would caution against that though and say use it when you need it, keep it in a big pelican case, and make it last forever.
 
Great info! Thanks everybody.

How many of you try to avoid lowering on the winch when possible? What wear do you see on the ropes from lowering on it from the knurling on the winch or do the ropes wear the knurling?
 
We have never used the aluminium bollards, they are both brand new, in the back of the shop. We use the Goods for lowering when its setup, dont get me wrong.. I never noticed it damaging the ropes or vice versa.
 
I disagree with Bonner.

If I am not needing to lift on a job I don't use the winch. Switching mid removal only takes a minute and saves wear on the knurled surface of the winch. I have seen a number of winches that are completely smooth from years of heavy use. Ropes are meant to wear out and likely will have other things happen to them before the winch wears them out.

I would buy a few extra bars for putting the GRCS on the tree or like others have said paint the damn thing a very bright color. I don't know how many crews I've worked with that have lost or misplaced it. Also, don't leave the winch handle in the winch during work. Ropes hang up on it, a poorly tossed stub can break them, and it is hard to load and unload the device with it on. Sailing supply stores carry winch handles of different sizes at a much lower price than the Harken handle.
 
I agree with you Ryan. If I am not needing to lift, I use the Porty, for all the reasons you and I both listed above. Agreed on the extra bars and the winch handle. We keep the winch handle in the pocket of air between the strap and the body of the GRCS.

The new goods bars have the hole in the handle to close a chain binder down too.
 
I've been putting the bollard on recently. Seems groundies fuss around less than with a pw. Rarely use the winch for dismantling.. Use it a lot for cranking over trees.
 
never slam big stuff into the winch.. use the bollard when not lifting. Don't use the pigtail with the bollard.. be REAL careful when switching from the winch to lowering.. if you try taking a wrap off when you take the rope out of the jaws, you'll lose all the wraps.. its a very easy mistake to make.. the piece will then drop FAST.. SO NEVER set the grcs up in the LZ.. Keep it on the far side of the tree.

Best advice would be to work on your rigging skills with near balance point rigging, sweating in the lines etc, so you don't much need the grcs.
 
I use the bollard way more than the winch. The winch gets broken out only on special occasions. It is a strict rule that the winch does not get used for anything but lifting. I do love the aluminum bollard.
 
We had a near fatal accident when we first got the grcs. I could not see my ground guy and how he was taking wraps on the grcs. He was taking half a wrap and then through the pigtail. The pigtail was working as a lowering device. Bad. It was working for smaller pieces and then I chunked the top out and it snapped off the pig tail. He didn't let go of the rope and was pulled into the landing zone and the log and him missed each other by a hair. With the bollard you can't make that mistake. It's way faster and easier to tension than a porta wrap and easier to get the friction right.

The other danger with the winch is getting the lines crossed when lowering. Always have a plan for how to deal with jammed lines. Keep a 5:1 handy. Fingers and hands can get sucked up into the rigging... The log will come down fast.

Other than that the grcs paid for itself in 6 months. I have had it for 7 years now. I found with mine that a 5/8 rope simply is too big. I believe the new one is beefier and can take 5/8th. With mine a 5/8ths rope will wear out the springs that hold the jaws tight.
 
We dig our GRCS. We've had a vehicle down for a few days, waiting for an exhaust brake, so we've been in minimal gear mode. We've used the port-a-wrap for some big removals, and I've gotta say, the GRCS Aluminum Bollard allows for dramatically improved control over lowering, no doubt due to the larger bend radius.

The reluctance to set it up could be attributed to the weight of the frame, but time shouldn't really be a factor. Two guys can set up the frame in only slightly more time required to secure a sling. A choker sling with an endless-loop hitch makes for super easy solo setup...just estimate the desired height of the frame and set the hitch, then hang the frame on the hitch by the fairlead. Easy-peasy. If the sling and hitch are rated for enough loading, you can hang your fairlead redirect block (XRR, whatever) right there. Bam.

Although the winch is great for sweating lines during negative blocking scenarios, it's not always required. It depends on the tree. The "positive" feel you get from operating a fixed bollard vs. a floating P-a-W is really noticeable.

Setting up a redirect over the fairleads is a must, since shock loads and high pulling forces could make the system rotate around a stem if it was pulled horizontally.
 
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