gaff sharpening

I have sharpened maybe three times in six years. And I feel only one of them was actually necessary. The other two times, there was adjustments required in the shank orientation and the sharpening did nothing.

I started on pole gaffs that had been in use since the early fifties. And had never been sharpened. They worked fine mostly.
 
A few have commented that they like the factory edge better, Gaffs are not supposed to be razor sharp, the shape is more important than the sharpness. its the factory shape that makes them work. Gaffs are not supposed to look like a ice pick. if you look at a new set they have a curve, and the edges are sharp but you could not peal a tomato with them. the idea is they enter the wood and split it apart and wedged in but not too far and only at one point on the arc so they don't get stuck. a good "sharp" pair will bite in and lock in but will will also release. I have used guys spurs that have been reshaped and yea they will stick into anything, but they will not release.

so when you re-dress them preserve the curve.
 
i was doing two maples yesterday and was stripping the bark with my spikes, sliding down the stems. was really thinking my spikes were dull and was all frustrated.
came to the realization it was because i settled for a crap tie in and fighting rope angles to stay in position was causing terrible form.
Come on Dre, ya rookie!
 
A few have commented that they like the factory edge better, Gaffs are not supposed to be razor sharp, the shape is more important than the sharpness. its the factory shape that makes them work. Gaffs are not supposed to look like a ice pick. if you look at a new set they have a curve, and the edges are sharp but you could not peal a tomato with them. the idea is they enter the wood and split it apart and wedged in but not too far and only at one point on the arc so they don't get stuck. a good "sharp" pair will bite in and lock in but will will also release. I have used guys spurs that have been reshaped and yea they will stick into anything, but they will not release.

so when you re-dress them preserve the curve.
Totally agree. Kinda like a maul for splitting wood. Too sharp and it just sticks in and doesn't want to come back out. Gotta retain that bevel near the spike tip
 
Fundamentals of General Tree Work has a good section on sharpening gaffs. It's important to know where and how they should be sharp, just like a chainsaw.
 

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