Footlocking technique...

As far as fast, the world record competitors go up twinned rope.
They just don't rest between strides, they use a loose prussik and combine a footlock with a pull-up, staying in constant upward motion. There's a reason for why doubled line is faster over single line and it has to do with half the potential for your feet slipping back down the rope and having double the rope diameter to grip with the hands.

I don't doubt anybody's speed, or preference, or what anyone thinks or feels. All emotion aside, it boils down to science at hand (and foot).

Normal treework is not about a race, or even speed. It's about safety and efficiency. Speed comes with technique and then a deliberate choice to be 'fast'.
For me, personally, I like options. I like ascending in the least-taxing way possible and not spending my energy unnecessarily. I like the gear accommodating me, not me having to accommodate the gear.
 
it can be quantitativly measured that one rope weighs half of two ropes. I have no problem with the friction of one line between my feet. the only times it ever slides through my feet is when I soaked my rope in bar oil, which posed a problem in drt too.

the hands is a point, but a fresh pair of sticky gloves helps.

catching both ropes is tricky and the weight of the rope definitly matters especially the higher up you go. you do have to lift the rope with your feet.
 
oh they are required in the competition to use double ropes. if you could choose to use a single rope in the comps i am sure that people would opt for that. I know I would because I have asked if I could. Its clear in the rule book. A single line would be a distinct advantage.

the best rope IMO is a half inch double braid, it is small but has enough girth for your hands. the thinner ropes are easy for the feet but hard on the hands.
 
Good points. Well, [ QUOTE ]
catching both ropes is tricky and the weight of the rope definitly matters especially the higher up you go. you do have to lift the rope with your feet.

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I think 'lifting the rope with your feet is a choice, or maybe to what degree. I find it's all a push down, not a lift up. Granted, with single rope the S configuration needs to be more defined to increase the surface area of the rope over the boots, so I can see where you're coming from. I have seen single ropers do this 'lift' and actually step one foot upon the other. But in twin line, you don't need that precision, just a shallow squiggle, down, across and back down. You get double the rope surface just by virtue of what it is. In SRT, yes, you need more of a down, under one, back up, over the other and down.

The only time I ever 'lift' is when I'm pasted up against a trunk and incorporate the tree as part of the overall friction equation; feet wide, lift the trailing foot, a short length of the rope horizontal on the bark. For some reason I get extended advancement of the ascender doing this. I experience it, but really can't explain why.

As far as "catching both ropes is tricky " I just can't agree with that. They're parallel. They don't split apart in the short distance between where they are held together and where you footlock. You treat the two as a single unit because they're parallel, side-by-side, together. It would actually be trickier to separate the lines and footlock one without the other (2:1 DdRT).
 
there is a story about a guy who footlocked like a 1000 foot bridge in Idaho. he carried a knife with him and would cut the rope as he went. when there is a bunch of rope beneath you it becomes hard to even bend the rope. I would agree with you most about gripping with your hands. this is definitly more difficult on a single line than a doubled line. I like the acenttree acender but just on a single line.
 
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I like the acenttree acender but just on a single line.

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I was just thinking of getting a dual-handled ascender, but was leaning toward that CMI single rope one. I didn't put much thought into using the ascentree (or similar) on just one line. I guess it would be a more versatile tool in the bag than the single line ascender, but most of the time I would use on single line
 
really unless i'm footlocking which I don't do very often, the smaller an acender the better so you can carry it around the tree. I'm a huge fan of the lil kong futura hand ascender right now. the acenttree mostly sits in my bag cause its so big. but for footlocking it is nice. just have to lower it down when i get up there.
 
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I still think footlocking a single line is easier and I can go faster too.

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That's because you have excellent footlock technique. A beginner is going to have an easier time getting a good lock on a doubled rope. The reason I suggest learning to lock the tail DdRT is that you can take your time hanging on the hitch as you learn, it's a little tougher doing that on doubled rope (hitch seizes etc.)
-moss
 
I want to give footlocking a try. Can someone show me some pictures of the prusik and how long it should be. What size should the eye be? I have some 10mm tenex, will this work? What do you guys use to make prusiks?
 
I set a line about 15ft up in a tree in my front yard. I've tried 2 different pairs of shoes. I've been able to make a few good locks and have even been able to let go with my hands only touching the rope for balance. My problem is when I try to stand up the rope starts sliding through my feet. I origanlly started with my right foot on the bottom and after reading this thread I switched it around and have had a lot more luck with my right foot on top.

It just dawned on me that I was using my bottom foot to try to stand up. Maybe that is my problem. I'm going back outside to try using mostly my top foot to advance. Wish me luck.

Jay
 
I can't argue with physics.

A agree with Treebing...I find it easier to FL on a single. This is after spending time perfecting the technique on dbl. Once I did, the act of FL is easier I feel. No worries about pairing the rope or having one roll around. Also, like Adrian mentioned, only one rope needs to be lifted and captured. Less weight to lift means less clamping pressure to FL.

It's been years since i actually did a dbl. FL though so maybe I'm not the one to listen to in this discussion :)
 
Well aside from the single vs. double debate; I can think of a few tips that have helped me get faster. Practicing to advance with two hands is key, it really speeds up your time and the technique is much smoother and safer.

I use a a small clip on a prussik (out of throwline) that is mid-line in my footlock cord. This clips to my collar to keep the cord out of my legs. Also, the SRT sequoia saddle has an attachment where the belt portion is. Clipping to this prevents the bridge from grabbing or flopping around when ascending. Lastly, the best advice I can give is make a habit of pointing your feet straight down immediately when releasing your lock, the rope slides out (especially when you're above thirty feet or so). This has helped for nailing each lock. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.

Great advice on your post Blinky!

jp
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I know myself when footlocking I need to make a concious effort to let my legs do the advancing and only using my arms for balance. Pulling with your arms...........you may as well hip thrust!
 
I am in the same delima as Moose.

And my ?'s are.

With my right foot on the bottom, left on top, is that climbing right or left handed?

I am left handed, but right arm dominant. I climb right handed but tight knots left hand preferably.

Second, when standing, do you try to stand mostly with the bottom foot? Or try to do it with the top foot?
 
Why would you set an SRT Line to footlock when you could use hand ascenders in multiple configurations to do the same thing but more effective? Anyway, the right sole configuration on your boots/ hikers has a lot to do with being able to bight or lock the line/lines. Evolv Maximus shoes work well as long as certain types of Merrells and Asolo's! If you are training for Comp. footlock better to go with heavier Danner's to get good form and rythum! Then go to the ballet shoes! Time and video your locks, to get a smooth and faster technique!

Hope this Helps,

X-man
 
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I know myself when footlocking I need to make a concious effort to let my legs do the advancing and only using my arms for balance. Pulling with your arms...........you may as well hip thrust!

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Well said.

I can't say this as well as Moss says to Treebing;
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That's because you have excellent footlock technique. A beginner is going to have an easier time getting a good lock on a doubled rope. The reason I suggest learning to lock the tail DdRT is that you can take your time hanging on the hitch as you learn, it's a little tougher doing that on doubled rope (hitch seizes etc.)
-moss


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You can overcome the problems and disadvantages of using a hitch or a prussik by not using a prussik. It complicates and make this exercise harder. Much harder, actually. I am not talking to competition climbers or recreational climbers. I speak here to commercial, climbing arborists. You make your living going up rope. Get the right gear and ditch the methods that will keep you from progressing to the very best level you can achieve. Don't be a slave to inadequate or limiting gear. <u>You should be able to rest between strides</u>, whenever you please, and then progress at the rate that suits you. Your gear needs to allow this without penalty.

I still have to contend that learning by footlocking the single tail of a 2:1 DdRT over the dual tails of a 1:1 twin line ascent, is, I mean, why?? The 2:1, 'sliding back down a steep sand hill' feel is both frustrating and very inefficient and I can't see why any professional climber would want to footlock on 2:1. Maybe with a single ascender, but on a climbing hitch that knock efficiency down so low you may as well hip thrust. Footlocking works great in 1:1 climbing, but sucks in 2:1. This is not my opinion. Don't argue with the physics unless you want to be frustrated and not get it.

Treesandsurf says
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Well aside from the single vs. double debate; I can think of a few tips that have helped me get faster. Practicing to advance with two hands is key, it really speeds up your time and the technique is much smoother and safer.

[/ QUOTE ] I agree, totally. Two hands. One on the handle of the dual ascender and the other on the rope just below it.

Tanner, I'll take your question [ QUOTE ]
I am left handed, but right arm dominant.

Second, when standing, do you try to stand mostly with the bottom foot? Or try to do it with the top foot?


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I am right handed, left hand dominant. I skateboard goofy-foot (toes pointing left) Here's what a footlock looks like, from me, and I'll be glad to go outside in the morning and shoot a little 30 second video,
but verbally,
You're looking at the climber, from behind, viewing his heels.
His ankles cross over, forming an X. The right foot is forward, the left foot behind.
The rope(s) are nestled in to the center of the X made by your feet, sighted in there with the tops of the boots. Don't worry right now about pointing heels downward, not important, just feel natural. Now here's the tricky part; move your toes together.

If you can hang on rope, in your saddle and have the rope in between the X of your feet, and move your toes together, you can footlock. It gets easier from here.

Keeping the rope(s) barely touching the tops of your boots, and keeping your hips in toward the rope, lift your feet. Feel the light slide of the rope as you keep you feet beneath you and lift them up. The reason you keep a feel on the rope with your feet is that you never lose track of it and you don't have to look at your feet with your eyes. You can keep your eyes focussed on the next obstacle you gotta get past.

Lift your legs a comfortable distance. un-X your feet by pulling the forward, right foot rightward over top of your left foot. The rope now comes down from above, right side of right foot, underneath the right foot, up the left side of the left foot, over top of left foot and down the left side of the left foot. Footlock dissected.

Viewed from behind, the rope over the feet looks like an N-shape, only with curves instead of angles. At the point where you propel yourself upward, your right foot should be to the right and your left foot to the left, right foot is usually a bit higher than the left during a dual-line footlock, shallow curve in the rope[s}. If you want to 'lift the rope, this is done with the left foot, lifting the rope upward so your feet are even in height, big toe to big toe, and heel to heel with the rope lacing down, over, and down. Or you can go left foot even higher, stepping on top of the right foot for a deep, exaggerated S. This last 'extended version' would be like on 11 mm, single line and on a wet rope.

A paired , dual rope, with a handled dual ascender, easy peazy. SRT, the same with a little more attention to detail.


Did this help you Moosehead? Tanner?
 
I have been able to get quite a few successful locks and was even able to advance a couple times yesterday.

One thing I was doing wrong is I wasn't stepping far enough over my bottom foot (I was trying to hold the lock more so in between my feet instead of on top of each other.)

Pointing my heels downward makes sense. This is something I wasn't doing. I was pointing my toes down.

Can someone provide a link with a good pair of hiking shoes that aren't to expensive that will also be good to work in. I'm no where near entering a competition so I'll look into those shoes when that time comes.

Thanks everyone for your tips I've been wanting to learn to footlock for a long time and finding this thread is what it took to get me started.
 

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