First day on the rope runner

N.e.Tree said:
I also use a niteize s-snap with a loop runner around my shoulders. Once in the canopy it can be used as a redirect. I learned this from Tony Tresselt attending one of his classes. I also clip in the bungee for my knee ascender to the Keychain biner. Works great and takes up no extra room on my saddle.
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I should add that I do not use the little snap as part of a redirect
 
macswan said:
those s clips wont handle a lot of weight will they. I like something I can lean back on, without snapping.
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Not much weight, only like ten pounds. I also have a slightly larger s-clip that's rated at 25lb but doesn't play so well with the very small hole in the rr tender piece.
 
macswan said:
View attachment 31298 I just set this up, haven't used it yet, I have high hopes.

Anybody tried tending this way yet?
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That is the bomb setup right there, as long as the tabs don't bend inward under decent loading.

I used a couple steel washers on my Franken-Runner and they never bent. I simply drilled another small hole into each washer and made what you have there. Those aluminum ones have when used alone on one side of the unit.

Give us a report!
 
had my first climb on my new runner today in a black oak at our shop love the way it tends slack on limb walks and ascending. Descent is going to take some getting used too, anybody else find that the bird is hard brake when starting a descent I'm running all gear cherry bomb with the bollard wide open
 
Nasshotgun said:
had my first climb on my new runner today in a black oak at our shop love the way it tends slack on limb walks and ascending. Descent is going to take some getting used too, anybody else find that the bird is hard brake when starting a descent I'm running all gear cherry bomb with the bollard wide open
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You gotta find the sweet spot.
 
I have the bollard in the middle for Yale 11.7's and Blue Craze (Cherry Bomb). I'm about 190 lbs geared up.
 
So one of the common mistakes as a runner beginner is to try to control the descent with just the beak of the bird. I have found that a little pressure is applied to the beak to get the descent started. but just a little pressure. Then the speed is controlled by pulling down on the back of the bird which pushes down on the tether and operated the second point of friction. Using both of the friction points makes for a very controlled action. Using just the beak can be very jumpy.
 
That makes sense I'll have to try that next time and I am by no means unhappy I just gotta get used to it and find that sweet spot as goreman said thanks for the input and advice
 
All kidding a side Jon, maybe do a search for the Slic pin removal tool that was being invented last month or two. That is about all I got and that is pushing it, the RR is a great tool out of the box.
 
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