Favorite blocks, pulleys

S

SilverBlue

Location
GTA Ontario
Having purchased an aluminum ¾ spring lock block recently and now enjoy its benefits, although I did have an issue with the lower pulley at first (which was resolved- Thanks Tom for the help) how many have or use an aluminum DMM design compared to say a CMI for example? Prefer aluminum, steel or stainless? Longevity issues?

And what are your recommendations and favorites for pulleys for other applications?

I want to add to inventory and would appreciate all input.
Thanks,
Rob.
 
Rob,

One very good reason to keep me from buying steel blocks is the fact that their cheek plates are thinner and more rigid. This will eat through the sheath of a good dbl. braid in one instance. I prefer the aluninum for this reason (and they're lighter).
 
Mark C. observation I agree with. Aluminum will not fray ropes like for instance a steel snatch block will.
I like the ISC blocks. the reason I use these now is for several reasons. One is the captive pin, I dont drop it when fiddling around with it high up in a tree. The other is I have had alot of trouble finding stout enough blocks for the work I do. The Hobbs block was my main block for a long time. It could take 3/4" line. but with the newer stronger ropes with smaller dia. I have gone to 9/16" & 5/8" lines as my main lowering lines- they seem plenty strong for what I do. The Hobbs is a great block but the pin is not captive and after a couple of drops and nearly not finding it, I went to the captive pins.
Frans
 
I agree with Mark about the cheek plates but I prefer CMI hardware.I could be wrong but a CMI 2 ton block is smaller and lighter than an ISC 2 ton block? At the company here we have many blocks from both manufactures and they all are preform well.
 
I agree. The CMI blocks are very nice. I used to use one. The reason I quit was just as I described. I almost always use two or more blocks/crotches when removing the crown. This sometimes cause off-center entrance angles to one or more blocks. That slight bit of contact could cause the rope to be damaged when it supports a load. But, they are good blocks.
 
Thanks for the input guys,I do like the captive pin design and it’s fast to set, much better than the CMI and I found that the ISC is lighter than a comparable block and so far the aluminum has held up very well. I still like the CMI stainless blocks, I think I will get a few new 5/8 ones for light rigging. Of great interest is the lock block design (and other products) by Vertical Pro, can’t wait to try it.
 
The Petzl swivel (P58) is CE certified, NFPA rated for rope rescue applications, and has a breaking strength of 36kN (8100 lbs).
Produit_Image_389.jpg
 
That swivel is not even close to strong enough to be blocking down large wood onto....If ever other piece of gear is rated 15-20k lb why would you add in the weak link of an 8100lb swivel,,,,your rope should always be the week link not the hardware..
 
I've been using the 5/8 ISC block for some time with 5/8 double braid rope and find it is really easy to use. Before now I had a static friction bollard so the groundman was always standing off to on side and letting the peices run. I have just purchased a GRCS and used it yesterday for the first time an a huge Beech take down. How my world has changed! What a peice of kit! Only trouble was that when pieces needed cranking back up the groundie was often standing under the load. We soon set in a second ISC pulley to prevent this. Is this what most of you do?
 
It really depends for me. If the tree is dead and fragile, then sometimes I'll run the line through a block at the base of the removal tree and then run the line to a neighboring tree. The GRCS has a fairlead for side-entry, so a 90* entry will work. The only thing is that you will load the unit differently, so I add a safety factor in to allow for this movement.

Minimizing the swing will reduce the dangers of a break out as well. I like to use the GRCS to hold things still, or pull them in tight. If the cut is right, the roper can take the wraps off before the cut is finished and be out of the danger zone when it is released and lowered.

One tip I'd like to add is to never release the rope when there is a load on it. Well, maybe when the load is at ground level, but never when cranking or hanging. If one person is on the unit, then they should use one hand to crank and one to control the tail. For long hauls, I'll have one on the unit, and one on the rope. If you get a jolt, the rope can slip out of the self-tailer.
 
Welcome to the buzz, wiley.

In his absence, I'll answer for him. He has a heavy swivel that matches load ratings of our heavy rigging gear. It is kinda bulky and pricey, if I recall. I gotta get one or two.

I have just now ordered a 5/8 ISC block. (By the way, Bishop has very low prices on them.) I have the CMI 5/8th, have had no problems that i'm aware of with the cheek plates. also have a Bailey's 3/4 block that is just like the old Hobbs... It has a huge 4-4.5 inch sheave, like the larger ISC 3/4. I just got the smaller 3/4 for a friend, and feel the bend ratio is way too small. The cheeks were a bit sharp, but I rounded them nicely, easy to do with aluminum.

It'll be nice to have that captive pin, I hate fumbling with droppable parts...usually not a problem when simply setting the block with sling preinstalled, but that is not always workable.

Speaking of wiley, the bum just ordered a GRCS...and says I can't rent just it from him.. I gotta rent him too....now if he was otherwise gendered......

So I say pffssst coyote guy---- another tree bud and I may well go in together on one....

I'm down to $300 invested in the hobbs that I got from Dan Kraus for $700, thanks to folks renting it.

Seriously tho, Dave is so busy with he company he's with, that I think it'd be hard to get him to work.....But it would be great, as he is better on the ground that i've ever seen....good climbers make the best groundies, ya know.


Here's a pic of a client's awesome Shirofugen cherry.
 
Thanks Mark. Its going to get some getting used to, but the advantages are clear after one day and I've got some other big stuff coming up. Only problem is I'll never get to use it! The groundies are happy and thats all that matters cos that makes me feel happy. Have you tried operating the GRCS with a drill? If so, what sort of power do you need. I'm hoping a 24v battery drill will do. I guess theres a special adapter available, but it might be easier for me to make one.
 
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
That swivel [the Petzl] is not even close to strong enough to be blocking down large wood onto....If ever other piece of gear is rated 15-20k lb why would you add in the weak link of an 8100lb swivel

[/ QUOTE ]

Lots of swivels available from F.D. Lake in the working range you're talking about.

- Robert
 
I use the Stihl BT 45 gas drill for mine, but only for certain situations. It works great for lifting lighter loads over a great distance, but not the heavies. I like to rig big. It doesn't work great for that. The nice thing on the Stihl drill is the slow speed, fast and the really nice option- reverse.

Don't remember what the special bit costs, but doubt it is worth making your own. I've seen others use a flat, wood bit and it broke the fitting of the winch. The real bit is square, solid stock that won't slip.
 
That was my ny next question, where to get the bit from? I've looked into having one made and it won't cost much more than the postage would be from the states. Not sure if my 24v cordless drill will be good enough. Does anyone else use one? I'm not likely to go and spend 500quid on a gas drill just for rigging. I'd rather keep the groundies active!
 
I don't think that a 24v drill will have enough power to do you much good, oooo, bad pun :) You'd use up a lot of batteries and probably heat the drill motor too.

If you have a drive bit fabricated its not a bad idea to have the shank machined with six flats to give the bit more surface to bite onto. You might check with a hand tool company to see if there is a square drive adapter already made up.

Tom
 
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