Eye splicing Yale rope - help !!!

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I'm wondering if the eye came out larger than you had planned with your marks...? If so, maybe there was a mix-up...

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No, not a mix-up. Because the first splice that got ruined was so tight, I decided to leave some extra length in the eye. Just a dumb move on my part.

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...pulling the core out of the cover too far away from the bitter end of the rope...

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I took your suggestion and counted 8 picks back and added one more for good measure (see attached photo). When I tapered the core, I actually left it about 1/2" too long, so I pulled it back out and re-trimmed it. Now that I have this down, I plan to make the core bury at least 10 picks.

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Definitely key to leave the cover bury alone until the tuck is done

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I think this is going become part of my standard process. Seems to make more sense.

I am VERY meticulous about smoothing the crossover point where the core and cover get buried into each other. IMO, this is probably the easiest and most key part of making a good splice. If you don't do this, it seems that you end up having a difficult time with the final bury.
 

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I took your suggestion and counted 8 picks back and added one more for good measure (see attached photo). When I tapered the core, I actually left it about 1/2" too long, so I pulled it back out and re-trimmed it. Now that I have this down, I plan to make the core bury at least 10 picks.[ QUOTE ]


Marden, that's the mix up...most likely due to my explanation. I'll try to back up.

Step 1 gets the core out of the cover.
Step 2 is tapering the bullet and tucking it.

Let's say you had a 100' rope, and the core was extracted from the cover about a foot from one end. Inserting the fid is done from the 90' side of the extraction point towards the 1' side. Essentially, the fid must enter the cover 1 long fid from the extraction point and exit 8 strands down from the second eye mark.

So let's say the 90' side is to the right, and the 1' side is to the left. The fid goes in from right to left. The fid will go in 1 long fid length from the right of the extraction point...it will pass the extraction point (which is also the throat AND second eye mark)...next it passes the first eye mark...and then exits 8 strands down from there (this is where your crossover is formed).

When the splice is going through the final bury, the crossover gets buried into the throat, followed by the 8 strands until the first eye mark meets the throat.
 
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Marden, the distance between the throat and core taper exit looks pretty short (photo in post #380955). I'm counting like 10 or 12 strands apart from each other. That should really be a long fid length (short, long, full)...yeah, long fid length.

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Good eye, that does look a bit close.
 
Eric, Levi,

Something wasn't feeling right about this splice. After re-reading your post and thinking about it, I realized I shorted where the core should be extracted from the throat.

Oh well. Good practice, but I will ditch this splice and make a new one. Besides, I wasn't happy with the eye being so large.

Thanks for the great feedback !!!

-Michael
 
Yea, what oceans said. I noticed that too. A long fid length is the way to go.....I usually put a 2 inch taper on the core and stick it thru my wire fid but leave the entire taper parallel to fid (not folded back) then just tape it starting at the wirefid then keep the tape tight as possible then just pull it on thru. It took me a while to figure out what method worked best for me. Good luck on your future splices. Pretty soon (if you are like me) ALL your ropes will be spliced....
 
I bury the core just a short fid length, roughly.
I think its what Samson says (or maybe it is 1/3 of y fid is what they say?...).
I dont think tis figure is really important on breaking strength or performance. Maybe its more cosmetically...
 
Here are my second and third splicing attempts on Yale rope. It is interesting to see how much the throat shortens up [and gets a lot fatter] on the final bury. These came out better.

Also, I still think it was a lot more work to splice the Yale rope versus Samson.

Thanks guys.
-Michael
 

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I'm thinking I like the looks of the lower one, at 2.5". I'd be curious to know where those break. Still seems a bit short for a 7/16" Class 1 DB, but that's just going by my fid lengths. My long fid is about 5.75"
 
Jontree, that length is from the manual I learned from...New England Ropes Splicing Guide. It's available online, and covers most all styles, including FLY...which is ugly as heck, but still works.
 
I did the second one a bit short of the short fid length.
On the third splice (2 splice in the last photo), I measured out exactly one short fid (on my aluminum fid) which measures 3 9/16". However, you must remember that the rope shortens up a lot when you finish the final bury. I measure the diameter of the throat to be 3/4" at the fattest point (versus just over 1/2").

I did a forth splice and this too came out to 2 1/2". Man was this tight and took a LOT of work to close the eye up. This was the other end of a 6 1/2' rope and there was no slack left in the rope when I finished. The eye was slightly larger.

-Michael
 
Eric,

Samson instructions call for a short fid length to bury the core. Are you sure it doesn't say 1/3 fid ? I would be amazed if you could finish the splice with a 2/3 fid core bury on this Yale rope.
 
Pretty good for a rope that was not splicable in the beginning Marden, congrats! :)

I wouldnt care to much for the 1 or 2/3 fid length oh the core bury, as do the manufacturers it seems...
 
The yale double braid directions: http://www.yalecordage.com/pdf/yale_indust_dbraid.pdf

They split the difference and have you bury the core ½ a fid. I typically do 14 rope diameters (aka long fid aka ⅔ fid) but then I do a longer, smoother taper which yields a smoother finished products and takes some of the pain out of the final running home.

If the rope is THAT tough, you guys would be well served by starting out with a longer core tail, doing a longer, smoother taper so that you are initially bringing less rope through the "crossover" where the core passes itself inside the cover.

The tape bullets I'm seeing to connect the rope to the wire fid are too big in these pictures and making you fight way more than needed.

The fact that this rope splices more difficult than the samson rope is a good thing :)

Good thread.

love
nick
 
Here is what I changed in my process which seems to make a lot of difference:

1- Use a much longer wire fid. The one I have now is three feet long :-) Seriously, it is 12 inches long and allows me to use a longer taper. Every little bit helps.

2- Instead of feeding 1/2 of the core threads through the fid and folding it back onto itself, I dropped this down to about 1/4 of the threads. For the remaining threads, I make a longer taper and then tape them to the fid. This makes the bullet narrower.

3- On the wall in my office, I permanently mounted to 2 bolt hangars - one at 5' and another 6" below the ceiling. These are great for testing out hitches and to use as an anchor while splicing.

4- Loop the tail end of the wire fid around a biner and clip it to a bolt hangar for pulling through. Much more leverage this way.

5- Use much less tape.

6- Spend a lot more time pre-opening the cover where the core has to go through.

7- Spend a lot of time working the cover together to help it stretch open.

8- Wear gloves for a better grip.

Nick, I will try an even longer cover taper on my next try.

Also, I am not getting your reference to &#8532

Thanks,
-Michael
 
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The tape bullets I'm seeing to connect the rope to the wire fid are too big in these pictures and making you fight way more than needed.

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Nick,

Can you post a picture what your bullet looks like on the wire fid ? Maybe one of the core after you cut the taper too ?

Thanks,
Michael
 
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