Ethanol

Tuebor said:
For those who have access to it, how much more per gallon is ethanol free gas over the ethanol blend for the same octane? Last time I saw a station selling it in a rural part of the state where boating is popular, it seemed like it was at least a dollar higher.
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Here, the e- free is 90 octane at $2.99/gallon
Regular 89 octane is $2.58 and 93 octane is $2.83
 
It's about a buck extra where I am. A few extra dollars to take better care of my most useful and expensive tools is 100% worth it, without a doubt.
 
Tuebor said:
For those who have access to it, how much more per gallon is ethanol free gas over the ethanol blend for the same octane? Last time I saw a station selling it in a rural part of the state where boating is popular, it seemed like it was at least a dollar higher.
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I have no idea, doesn’t seem much more than .50 but I’m only buying a few gallons at a time.
 
Am I the only one adding enzyme to regular gas? I'm transitioning to ethanol free, but I've been doing the additive for 8 years and it's been great. My MS661 is chomping happily along without needing repairs after 4 years of service. I bought an MS880 this year and I put either ethanol free or regular 10% with enzyme and it seems fine so far... I have some saws entering middle/old age and nothing has blown up.
 
colb said:
Am I the only one adding enzyme to regular gas?
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I had looked into some treatments for ethanol, but if I recall at the time, it was cheaper just to get the non-e. Can't remember what I was looking at. 3 years on non-e and fuel stabilizer and even the low use stuff cranks right up with old gas.
 
colb said:
Am I the only one adding enzyme to regular gas? I'm transitioning to ethanol free, but I've been doing the additive for 8 years and it's been great. My MS661 is chomping happily along without needing repairs after 4 years of service. I bought an MS880 this year and I put either ethanol free or regular 10% with enzyme and it seems fine so far... I have some saws entering middle/old age and nothing has blown up.
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I’m fairly certain that it’s pretty much a moot issue with most professional users, as we don’t have fuel just sitting in the saws or old jugs laying around for months or seasons on end
 
evo said:
I’m fairly certain that it’s pretty much a moot issue with most professional users, as we don’t have fuel just sitting in the saws or old jugs laying around for months or seasons on end
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I use two 1-gallon cans to keep things fresh, and occasionally take out my infrequent-use saws just to fire them up. My workflow is diverse enough that a saw can get to 2 months without being used if I don't monitor things a bit. Usually it's my beater backup echo tophandle or my MS880 that sit for long periods of time. In part, my lithium saws are increasingly displacing the gas saws, so that adds to the length of time between use. I feel that I have to monitor things a bit to keep the saws from getting gummed up. I haven't had any issues so I may just be overdoing it...
 
colb said:
I use two 1-gallon cans to keep things fresh, and occasionally take out my infrequent-use saws just to fire them up. My workflow is diverse enough that a saw can get to 2 months without being used if I don't monitor things a bit. Usually it's my beater backup echo tophandle or my MS880 that sit for long periods of time. In part, my lithium saws are increasingly displacing the gas saws, so that adds to the length of time between use. I feel that I have to monitor things a bit to keep the saws from getting gummed up. I haven't had any issues so I may just be overdoing it...
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I do the same... I have everything from a MS150 to a husky 395... The 150 and 020 are the most used, the 361,461, and 395 are the least.. In fact I cannot recall the last time I used the 395 and should empty the tank
 
Rarely used saws are one place where it might make sense to bother with the synthetic premix fuel. Empty the 'normal' gas out, pour in a bit of the expensive synthetic stuff, run the saw long enough that works its way through the fuel system and carb, then it should be good to sit for a long time. The Stihl MotoMix is supposed to be good for up to two years according to them. I watch a bunch of 'Steves Small Engine Saloon' on YouTube which is a very good source for small engine knowledge and this is now his recommendation for winterizing, long term storage, etc.
 
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Birdyman88 said:
August Hunicke did a removal with a 2511. It was ported though.
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I stripped out a 30-something-inch diameter laurel oak with my 2511t with 8" bar, then made a few cuts with the ms661 to finish it. I topped a swamp chestnut oak at the 15" midpoint with a 14" bar. :musculoso:

I have not dropped a thick spar with the 2511t, or pruned with my ms880...
 
I took down a decent sized red oak in my backyard with just an MS170. Solo, no spikes, lowered every piece except the bottom 4 logs. Just used the equipment I had at the time. Still much easier than the very first removal I ever did. That was a 60-70 ft pine, maybe 14" dbh. Had to lower every piece. No spikes, no chainsaw. Just a bow saw. Couldn't even make a full cut through the spar without coming to the ground at least once to clean the saw blade. I used to be younger, dumber and tougher!
 

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Dan Cobb said:
I took down a decent sized red oak in my backyard with just an MS170. Solo, no spikes, lowered every piece except the bottom 4 logs. Just used the equipment I had at the time. Still much easier than the very first removal I ever did. That was a 60-70 ft pine, maybe 14" dbh. Had to lower every piece. No spikes, no chainsaw. Just a bow saw. Couldn't even make a full cut through the spar without coming to the ground at least once to clean the saw blade. I used to be younger, dumber and tougher!
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Nice one!
 
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