economy of motion

ficus

ficus

Location
Australia
your probably thinking WTF?
I like ways of acheiving more with less effort. Maybe just lazy.
Old Team leader once told me- when deadwooding a messy tree(with lots of deadwood)- lanyard in, in a spot where you can make multiple cuts. ( I was changing my lanyard everytime I made a slight change in postition, with no real improvement in safety.
What other energy savers do you use?
The rope trick?
Wraptor?
 
dual climbing lines or a long lanayrd alot of the time for me. i am dealing with restoring alot of topped trees here and what a SOAB they can be to climb. it is sooooo Fing annoying when your trying to reach somthing but there are no good laterals and crotches to step on. so to remedy it i take a 6 or 8 foot pole with the saw section attached along with my handsaw. i notice alot of guys dont like pole saws with them up in the tree but i think it saves soo much time and evergy when trying to reach something that is in a weird place to reach. if you can reach multiple spots with the saw rather then having to climb out to them it will save time and energy.
 
Less movementd trough proper rope management.
Less energy lost trough working SRT where possible.
Less timewaste trough connecting the lanyard SRT

and less energy trough better understanding the tree and the way to climb it.

Less energy lost trough improved climbing techniques and the ability to use them when neccesary.

less energy lost when using a sharp (hand)saw

and so on...and so on...

climb safe
wouter
 
When you're ascending scout the tree for work positions on the way down. Sometimes its easier to work a spot or two on the way up.

Set multiple climbing lines from the ground before ascending.
 
Here is a philosophical one for you to ponder:

Take 'em apart or prune 'em they way they were put together.

wink.gif


Tony
 
Generate a solid plan from the ground and share every detail with your groundie so you don't even have to talk which is a huge waste of time!
grin.gif
 
clip/choke the big saw to the tree is strategic locations,

Get enough scope to make that swing first go.

Drop dead limbs on lower dead ones to break them off- two for one!
 
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Less timewaste trough connecting the lanyard SRT



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How does this help?

I'm all for a SRT climbline, but the climber would need to go back to the point of attachment to disconnect the lanyard, in the way that I'm picturing it.

How do you make SRT lanyarding efficient?

Thanks.
 
If you only use the d-rings you will have to change the lanyard a lot during pruning. If you tie it off and use it SRT style with for example the cinch you can use the lanyard for multiple branches and you don't have to bother tieing in the lanyard on every branch apart. SRT you just get a lot more reach out of your lanyard. Or you must climb with an extreme long lanyard if you use your both d-rings.

capiche

wouter
 
I actually like getting some extra effort in... being a geezer and all I have to work harder to stay in shape.

When i first started climbing trees everyday the effort was huge and i dropped 2" off my waist. Then i started getting good at it and i found it wasn't nearly as much of a workout.

But is you want to make a bunch of cuts from one position, especially on deadwood, nothing beats a polesaw. You can do a whole tree and change positions only a few times.
I don't do that much though unless i need to do a bunch of trees in one day, I'd rather climb.

It takes months to get good with a polesaw, it's a different batch of muscles and developing them HURTS, especially doing undercuts. Once you have it down though, polesaws are ridiculously efficient.

It was different when I was young and going hard but now, efficiency isn't my goal. I'm not trying to do the most i can do the fastest. I'm out there enjoying my job, getting exercise, marveling at nature and learning details about local tree species.
...it helps that i don't work for some guy standing on the ground wanting me to make him as much money as possible.

I love economy of motion... elegance in movement. Those things are about muscle tone, balance and practice rather than positioning and speed.
 
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But is you want to make a bunch of cuts from one position, especially on deadwood, nothing beats a polesaw. You can do a whole tree and change positions only a few times.

It takes months to get good with a polesaw, it's a different batch of muscles and developing them HURTS, especially doing undercuts. Once you have it down though, polesaws are ridiculously efficient.

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Totally. Telescoping poles so much more efficient than sections. And keep the pruner head on the belt for the smaller cuts--hey I've seen saddles sagging with other crap-- it's not that heavy.

Yes to the second line, or keep the tail on the belt for a second line works too.
 
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If you only use the d-rings you will have to change the lanyard a lot during pruning. If you tie it off and use it SRT style with for example the cinch you can use the lanyard for multiple branches and you don't have to bother tieing in the lanyard on every branch apart. SRT you just get a lot more reach out of your lanyard. Or you must climb with an extreme long lanyard if you use your both d-rings.

capiche

wouter

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Nicely explained.

Do you find the Cinch superior to a hitch for an SRT lanyard? Or is it that you just like the Cinch in general for your lanyard adjuster DdRT or SRT?

Currently I prefer a hitch for SRT lanyard so I can easily put my Pantin on the tail when I want the power, Cinch seems like you have to work a little harder for short ascending moves on the lanyard.
-AJ
 
For those real big conifers (you know, the ones you guys on the east coast drool over and pay to come out and climb
grinyes.gif
) -

bigshot into the lower limbs; srt up; double flipline up the tree, cleaning up a good path to toss limbs down as you go up; set the friction saver at the top; work the rest of the tree on the way down, tossing all the debris down the hole you made coming up, clearing hangers as you go; hit the ground and collect you check; repeat as necessary
 
The cinch is just personal favorit for me, i don't like using knots SRT without adding extra friction to the party.

But it works easier as you kindly explained yourself ;-)

climb safe
wouter
 
I think the most important thing is picking a good tie in point. most climbers set them too low.. that and proper planning of routes and changing tie in points when needed for the route. Seems like a big part of planning efficient routes is going SRT.. If you can leave the chainsaw on the ground, its a lot easier to bounce around through tight spots etc.

I hate trying to "fix" a topped tree, when there is no good TIP, and I hate using a pole saw in a tree. Fortunately, there aren't too many topped trees in my market...
 
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