Tony
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
First, let's be clear and define drop starting as holding on to the starter cord with the right hand and dropping or pushing the saw away from the body holding it with the left on either the front or rear handle.
This is opposed to holding the saw stationary with the left hand on the front or top handle and pulling the starter cord out.
The problem with drop staring even with the chainbrake on is really three phase. First phase is Wear and gear on the saw.
Modern chainsaws have anti-vibration suspensions. The sudden stop at the end of the drop start flexes these. Often causing them to bottom out. Much like hitting a pot hole every chance you get when running down the road in your truck. The first one might not do damage, not even the second one. However, it adds up over time.
A malfunction of the anti-vibe sytem mat then stress the air intake system of the saw, as well as the fuel lines that have to cross this barrier from handle to engine block.
You the operator also loose the benefits of less vibration and begin a slow return to the days of 'ol white knuckling the saw. I am sure a few on here can remember the feeling of having to pry up your hands off the handles after a long cut/day!
The last problem with a drop start, from a saw mechanical standpoint, is that it rarely allows for the pull cord to run straight out of the saw as designed. Instead it forces the pull cord to abrade against the exit hole of the recoil cover. Eventually the cord breaks, is shortened and this exacerbates the above saw and operator problems.
Second phase is the motion of throwing a weight down and into your arm and shoulder. Again the adverse results are not immediately apparent, but over time the hand, wrist, elbow, shoulder take a slow beating.
I like many in my youth thought I could withstand it. For years I did. However, glacial like, the abuse crept up.
Like many of the advanced climbing and ascent solutions now available, I wish I would have knew them when. The down grading of the saw mechanically as describe above becomes a vicious spiral bad for you and the saw.,
Lastly, it becomes a matter of control. The chainbreak should always be on when starting. The hand should be well clear of the throttle. However, we are all aware that starting at high idle, or a saw malfunction could cause the chain to begin to turn at at start up.
Applying the chain break is an excellent way to mitigate the threat. However, we put ourselves in a situation where we are relying on one mechanical device to belay another possible mechanical problem. Great in an emergency or moment of forgetfulness I agree.
Much like should I have to remove sawdust from near the dogs, or adjust the chain tension, I would take the additional precaution of shutting the saw down and not entirely trust my memory or the mechanism of the chain break itself. Just as if I were to crawl under my touch to check some thing, I would chock it as well as apply the parking brake. We can make it a longer list if we want.
While I am against laws and legislation that protects me from myself, I am in full support of simple acts or process that help keep me safe, sometimes despite myself, even when I have the best intentions! Avoiding drop starts is one such practice.
If you only start a saw a few times a year, then your chances of using any method without physical or mechanical problems are good. However, this was never an option for me or many or you.
In the real world, we all know that a leg-lock or ground start is not always possible. However, with some thought and planing a hybrid method exists to protect the sawyer and the saw. I have a feeling many of us have found that method.
Tony
This is opposed to holding the saw stationary with the left hand on the front or top handle and pulling the starter cord out.
The problem with drop staring even with the chainbrake on is really three phase. First phase is Wear and gear on the saw.
Modern chainsaws have anti-vibration suspensions. The sudden stop at the end of the drop start flexes these. Often causing them to bottom out. Much like hitting a pot hole every chance you get when running down the road in your truck. The first one might not do damage, not even the second one. However, it adds up over time.
A malfunction of the anti-vibe sytem mat then stress the air intake system of the saw, as well as the fuel lines that have to cross this barrier from handle to engine block.
You the operator also loose the benefits of less vibration and begin a slow return to the days of 'ol white knuckling the saw. I am sure a few on here can remember the feeling of having to pry up your hands off the handles after a long cut/day!
The last problem with a drop start, from a saw mechanical standpoint, is that it rarely allows for the pull cord to run straight out of the saw as designed. Instead it forces the pull cord to abrade against the exit hole of the recoil cover. Eventually the cord breaks, is shortened and this exacerbates the above saw and operator problems.
Second phase is the motion of throwing a weight down and into your arm and shoulder. Again the adverse results are not immediately apparent, but over time the hand, wrist, elbow, shoulder take a slow beating.
I like many in my youth thought I could withstand it. For years I did. However, glacial like, the abuse crept up.
Like many of the advanced climbing and ascent solutions now available, I wish I would have knew them when. The down grading of the saw mechanically as describe above becomes a vicious spiral bad for you and the saw.,
Lastly, it becomes a matter of control. The chainbreak should always be on when starting. The hand should be well clear of the throttle. However, we are all aware that starting at high idle, or a saw malfunction could cause the chain to begin to turn at at start up.
Applying the chain break is an excellent way to mitigate the threat. However, we put ourselves in a situation where we are relying on one mechanical device to belay another possible mechanical problem. Great in an emergency or moment of forgetfulness I agree.
Much like should I have to remove sawdust from near the dogs, or adjust the chain tension, I would take the additional precaution of shutting the saw down and not entirely trust my memory or the mechanism of the chain break itself. Just as if I were to crawl under my touch to check some thing, I would chock it as well as apply the parking brake. We can make it a longer list if we want.
While I am against laws and legislation that protects me from myself, I am in full support of simple acts or process that help keep me safe, sometimes despite myself, even when I have the best intentions! Avoiding drop starts is one such practice.
If you only start a saw a few times a year, then your chances of using any method without physical or mechanical problems are good. However, this was never an option for me or many or you.
In the real world, we all know that a leg-lock or ground start is not always possible. However, with some thought and planing a hybrid method exists to protect the sawyer and the saw. I have a feeling many of us have found that method.
Tony
