Documenting my hand-sewn eye process

I gotchya.. I've read through the first couple.. just realized that I'm already around page 100 in the app.. so i don't think it's actually that long. I wasn't sure if you had changed your technique at all or came to a point somewhere in the middle of the thread where you decided that "xyz" are the best practices.. so on & so on..

I've seen some interesting stuff so far though, for sure.. like that foot locking device Hitman made up.

Anyone here been brave enough to sew Icetail? You know the ice tail with the skinny mini core? What about rigging tools.. are those a no-go zone for sewing? Or.. maybe a small xring Prusik?

The way I started is I sewed non-life support stuff, like footloops, after beating on my home made stuff for a few years I realized how durable sewing can be. I’ve looking at a couple of my X-rings with stitching in mind ;-) Yeah Icetail has such a loose weave, maybe not the best stitching candidate. You could try and test it. It would be easy to use a super burly thread with it, which is the way I’d go, might make up for the loose weave.
-AJ
 
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My technique is pretty much the same as I show in the beginning of the thread, I just have more little tricks to make it go better, like after I tension the stitch pulling on both legs, I roll my fingers/fist on the side I push the needle through and pull/bury the lock stitch on the backside down into the cordage. If that makes sense, important step.
-AJ
 
The dyneema line was only used on friction hitch cords with a vectran core. Polyester or nylon cords might not be as resistant to being cut under load. But maybe the connection being rock hard after being sewn, would not allow any movement between the two materials.
My theory on the machine sewn type of configuration of sewing is the shorter the stitch area, with the stitches being as narrow as possible between the two cords, the stronger it is. These two things allow the rope to stretch around the outside of cord, in theory.

The RIT Jimmy referenced is using the round perimeter type of stitching, much different approach to sewing than the machine type. I'm guessing it has a higher break strength, because it can stretch more, there's no concentrated rock hard area preventing stretching.
 
The RIT Jimmy referenced is using the round perimeter type of stitching, much different approach to sewing than the machine type. I'm guessing it has a higher break strength, because it can stretch more, there's no concentrated rock hard area preventing stretching.

Does the wrap around perimeter stitching break higher? I know it did well in Richard's recent tests, my "2nd generation" eyes were never tested to breaking because the cordage always broke first, well away from the stitched area. I need to have some eyes broken on fresh rope.

What I don't like about the perimeter stitching is the movement under load, I always see movement as introducing cycles to failure.
-AJ
 
The way I started is I sewed non-life support stuff, like footloops, after beating on my home made stuff for a few years I realized how durable sewing can be. I’ve looking at a couple of my X-rings with stitching in mind ;-) Yeah Icetail has such a loose weave, maybe not the best stitching candidate. You could try and test it. It would be easy to use a super burly thread with it, which is the way I’d go, might make up for the loose weave.
-AJ



My technique is pretty much the same as I show in the beginning of the thread, I just have more little tricks to make it go better, like after I tension the stitch pulling on both legs, I roll my fingers/fist on the side I push the needle through and pull/bury the lock stitch on the backside down into the cordage. If that makes sense, important step.
-AJ



The dyneema line was only used on friction hitch cords with a vectran core. Polyester or nylon cords might not be as resistant to being cut under load. But maybe the connection being rock hard after being sewn, would not allow any movement between the two materials.
My theory on the machine sewn type of configuration of sewing is the shorter the stitch area, with the stitches being as narrow as possible between the two cords, the stronger it is. These two things allow the rope to stretch around the outside of cord, in theory.

The RIT Jimmy referenced is using the round perimeter type of stitching, much different approach to sewing than the machine type. I'm guessing it has a higher break strength, because it can stretch more, there's no concentrated rock hard area preventing stretching.

Right on.. yes.. I'll probably start with some silly little stuff & get my patterns figured out. From there I'm more or less interested in creating non spliceable rope tools.. like.. I have a few Dmm Thimbles i need to put to use, Endless loops in Cordage other than 12 strand, etc..

Also, probably restitch stuff like this Thimble below.. I did find it rather ironic to see Sterling chime in here waving their finger at y'all, acting like theyre the only ones with the knowledge on how to do it correctly when im looking at this peice below that literally only has two climbs on it & its falling apart. Yes.. TWO uses.. like 20 minutes tops, that's it. It's also loads uneven, which probably doesn't help the scenario in the pic, but still.. two uses.. com'on..
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ee9dc12e3c381ff436ee49337ad025f4.jpg
 
A little modification for the masses. Drill out the holes a little wider and drill out the 3 blanks too. Now you can hold a bunch more needles in there.
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Pretty cool man..
Hey.. what are those table mats called? The one with all your stuff on it. It's got the squares & measurements referenced in it. I need to get one.
 
@Jimmycrackcorn they are called cutting Mats and a couple other things. I like the Alvin brand the best so far. They are triple the thickness of the Fiskars buy they both work well for the purpose. Been waiting for a company to make one specifically printed for splicing with fid lengths, quick facts, etc. On it. No go so far. I always get the double sided and will most likely invest in another Alvin in a 24"*36" soon. My children love using them for designated crafts.
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Thanks bud. Never knew what they were called.. i bet their performance useful. I'm always scrounging around for a tape or anything i know the common length of to reference.

I've actually seen the ones you desire, with the fid lengths.. I'm not sure if it was more of a sticker or cutting mat, but the lengths were definitely on there & marked out like fids. I believe I've seen one by Atlantic Braids, but I'm pretty sure any big rope manufacturer has them kicking around for "in-house use". I think i saw one on Peter DeVries table. "Designs By DeVries", he does alot of special request work for Canadian fellas. Check his Insta.. if you look hard enough, long enough, you'll find it.. or a glimpse of it at least.

Edit.. ok.. so i lied.. it doesn't say where it's from cuz he's got his own name on it looking all proper & professional & stuff... So I'd have to guess they're available to have made from somewhere.. Hit him up.. he's good ppl.. Hope he don't mind I'm stealing his pic here for the moment.
d86845d59c28d640348d9f65c7176a7a.jpg
 
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Thanks bud. Never knew what they were called.. i bet their performance useful. I'm always scrounging around for a tape or anything i know the common length of to reference.

I've actually seen the ones you desire, with the fid lengths.. I'm not sure if it was more of a sticker or cutting mat, but the lengths were definitely on there & marked out like fids. I believe I've seen one by Atlantic Braids, but I'm pretty sure any big rope manufacturer has them kicking around for "in-house use". I think i saw one on Peter DeVries table. "Designs By DeVries", he does alot of special request work for Canadian fellas. Check his Insta.. if you look hard enough, long enough, you'll find it.. or a glimpse of it at least.

Edit.. ok.. so i lied.. it doesn't say where it's from cuz he's got his own name on it looking all proper & professional & stuff... So I'd have to guess they're available to have made from somewhere.. Hit him up.. he's good ppl.. Hope he don't mind I'm stealing his pic here for the moment.
d86845d59c28d640348d9f65c7176a7a.jpg
 
That's cool. I have a pigment inkjet printer that I can print a 13" wide sheet as long as you want, 6, 7' whatever. I have a straight through feed option on my printer so I can print on any weight paper. Theoretically, if I'm given a spec, I can layout a personalized workshop fid chart like shown above. It could be laminated by any local graphics services business. Just thinking aloud.
-AJ
 
Right on.. yes.. I'll probably start with some silly little stuff & get my patterns figured out. From there I'm more or less interested in creating non spliceable rope tools.. like.. I have a few Dmm Thimbles i need to put to use, Endless loops in Cordage other than 12 strand, etc..

Also, probably restitch stuff like this Thimble below.. I did find it rather ironic to see Sterling chime in here waving their finger at y'all, acting like theyre the only ones with the knowledge on how to do it correctly when im looking at this peice below that literally only has two climbs on it & its falling apart. Yes.. TWO uses.. like 20 minutes tops, that's it. It's also loads uneven, which probably doesn't help the scenario in the pic, but still.. two uses.. com'on..
17d381736adb31123a71b3689c89ac8c.jpg
ee9dc12e3c381ff436ee49337ad025f4.jpg

That's failed factory stitching? Seriously?
-AJ
 
@moss

Yes, I've had one of the 9900pros and other similar "cardstock" printers in the past. Worked great . The room lots of the different 'tools' and interests we have in our house takes up, leaves virtually no space. Unfortunately, until we are in a bigger space, lots of the less used items have been gotten rid of.

As for printing and laminating. Yes, doable. Only foreseeable issue for me is these are a PVC self healing item so laminating them wouldn't be the best. What I currently do if I am doing something that I can't remember all the measurements for etc. is use a crayon and write everything out on the matts. Then clean them later
 
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That's failed factory stitching? Seriously?
-AJ
Idk.. Is it? Or are you being sarcastic? Like its not bad or something?

All i know is the tension on the Thimble eye, when held at stitch & pulled at thimble, has never been even on both legs. Which causes the stitching to be unevenly loaded, eventually it started unraveling the way you see it in the pics.

I had originally thought it was just uneven over lapping of the heat shrink over the ends of the cordage.. Like it wasn't centered, but after trimming it back some & making it even, the problem was still there.
 
Are you asking if it's failed stitching? Or are you unsure if it's from the factory?

I'd say yes to both.
I was just asking Moss if he was asking sarcastically.. like a joke.. like it's not anything to be concerned about or something.. that's all..

But yeah... No man that's factory.. Not even a third party copy like the other Sterling loop i have that's done by Iron Street. (Sterling offers a bunch of stitched tools, but third parties will sometimes make them themselves, I'm pretty sure they go as far as using same part numbers too) For example, I bought that Thimble loop & a Bound Loop Prusik from Wesspur, the Thimble is Sterling the Bound Loop is IronStreet.
 
I was just asking Moss if he was asking sarcastically.. like a joke.. like it's not anything to be concerned about or something.. that's all..

But yeah... No man that's factory.. Not even a third party copy like the other Sterling loop i have that's done by Iron Street. (Sterling offers a bunch of stitched tools, but third parties will sometimes make them themselves, I'm pretty sure they go as far as using same part numbers too) For example, I bought that Thimble loop & a Bound Loop Prusik from Wesspur, the Thimble is Sterling the Bound Loop is IronStreet.

I wasn’t being sarcastic, it looked like badly done hand-stitching, just wanted to confirm what was going on.
-AJ
 
I wasn’t being sarcastic, it looked like badly done hand-stitching, just wanted to confirm what was going on.
-AJ
Right on.. yeah.. as you can see in my other post, it's never really seemed correct.

If it was yours, would you just restitch it or contact Sterling for replacement?

I've yet to get the correct needles & thread to fix myself...
 
Right on.. yeah.. as you can see in my other post, it's never really seemed correct.

If it was yours, would you just restitch it or , contact Sterling for replacement?

I've yet to get the correct needles & thread to fix myself...

I would contact Sterling, they need to know their sewing is failing and you need a free replacement!
-AJ
 

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