Documenting my hand-sewn eye process

JeffGu said:
A hitch cord isn't used over a pulley, normally, so I'm guessing that because you can't really know whether each end of the cord is being loaded equally, they decided to err in favor of a bigger safety margin. That's pure speculation, but seems a likely possibility.
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Makes sense to me. Honestly, 15kn is above what some of my rec climb gear is rated for (14 seems like the low point). If I ever sustained 15 kilonewtons to a point attached to me, I know that it would break me.
It is the inconsistency in the regulations that surprises me. Why wouldn't a terminal eye have to be as strong as the minimum strength of the rope? My best example of one taking full load would be running it as a basal anchor for srt, but the fact that there is a situation where it can happen makes me wonder about the BAC of the folks writing these things.
 
SomethingWitty said:
Makes sense to me. Honestly, 15kn is above what some of my rec climb gear is rated for (14 seems like the low point). If I ever sustained 15 kilonewtons to a point attached to me, I know that it would break me.
It is the inconsistency in the regulations that surprises me. Why wouldn't a terminal eye have to be as strong as the minimum strength of the rope? My best example of one taking full load would be running it as a basal anchor for srt, but the fact that there is a situation where it can happen makes me wonder about the BAC of the folks writing these things.
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There are a few reasons for our high PPE Safety Factors. A big question in my mind is developing an appropriate response toward SRT anchors/terminations as they effectively half the standardised DdRT safety factor. What is permissible? It's certainly an interesting and important question.
Should the current training and legislating bodies allow us to connect a splice or stitch directly to a crown anchor? Should we consider that this connection point may be used as a pick-off point for rescue? Looking at the numbers is enlightening.
 
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image.webp image.webp Had a few hours recently and whipped out these five cords. Four are the standard type of sewn eyes and one is a combo of burying and sewing. The standard ones have 88 stitches of 80# dyneema line. The combo has 5" of bury and 60 stitches. I tried out a few different stitch patterns on these to see if one would be stronger.
 
Brocky said:
View attachment 38808 View attachment 38807 Had a few hours recently and whipped out these five cords. Four are the standard type of sewn eyes and one is a combo of burying and sewing. The standard ones have 88 stitches of 80# dyneema line. The combo has 5" of bury and 60 stitches. I tried out a few different stitch patterns on these to see if one would be stronger.
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I am having trouble wrapping my head around your buries. Is it a core-dependent cord and you just used another sheath for the eyes and buried the core? I think the construction probably matters a lot as well.
I am totally meaning to pry. Please ramble about the details.
The only things I have been stitching and using so far are saw lanyards and neck tethers, and I am very interested in everyone's strength results for everything.
 
Only one cord, the #7 & 8, is buried. The eyes on it are only covered to protect from snagging during testing. The stitching was done in two passes perpendicular to each other. The other four are just cord on cord sewn together. All have accessory cord cover and the core is from some beeline, so yes core dependent.
 
Brocky said:
Only one cord, the #7 & 8, is buried. The eyes on it are only covered to protect from snagging during testing. The stitching was done in two passes perpendicular to each other. The other four are just cord on cord sewn together. All have accessory cord cover and the core is from some beeline, so yes core dependent.
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Okay. Thanks, man. Be sure to let us know when you break them.
 
Brocky said:
View attachment 38811 View attachment 38812 Your wish is my command!

The top two broke at 3530
The next two at 3400
The third pair at 4570
The last two at 4540
The combo broke at 6530

The rope broke on all of them at where the stitching started. Number 9 broke inside the stitching at the eye end and ripped them as it pulled out.
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What's the abs of the rope used?

Reed Wortley
CTSP #01739
ISA CA #SO-6953A
 
Brocky said:
The cover is too loose to properly space the stitches,plus this is the friction cord I use.
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That is rather involved but I like the idea. I may play with cores and covers some.
Also, good job on those eyes.
The weakest one cleared 15kn, which this thread (or one of them) said was the required minimum for an e2e sewn eye.
 
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