DMM throw hook.

I love it! I use mine for all sorts of tasks: freeing hangers, line retrieving, and of course traversing! It's great while cable bracing. The only problem with it is I want to bring it with me on every climb!
 
Climbing!

"...One thing is for sure, a tool I would not want to be without anymore in trees like this, is the Captain hook. I find it an indispensable aid when moving around the canopy, allowing for much higher traverses, where earlier you would have descend much further down before being able to cross onto an adjacent stem. Now, you place the hook on a suitable limb and hop across. Certainly, in certain situations, the Captain has allowed me to up both my speed, as well as my efficiency."
 
Threw mine about 30' horizontal on the weekend. Had a good high perch, but throwing that far needed a slightly different technique - tighter rope coils and two hands of coils, one with the hook.

Anyway, took a few throws to get it right. Almost maxed out the 50'line until I got down and started out from the trunk. Good fun.

Don't use it all the time, but still loving it after a year.
 
My captain sucked yesterday. Used it to limb walk for small branch removal (tight landing zone), then tip tied the rest for grcs vertical winching, bailed and got my hitch bound too tight (need another RW or an AKIMBO...) in mid air. Lanyarded into the limb to unweight, retrieved my hook, unhooked the lanyard and bailed to the trunk, for real.

Later, got ready to transfer spar, ~15'... prepared to cheuck the captain across by use of a couple head bobs/wrist swings and noticed that my hand was almost touching a twig on an inner canopy branch from the other spar, so I dropped the hook and pulled across.

Okay, so it wasn't really the captain that sucked, lol. Seriously though, sometimes I should just saw some steps into my limbwalk limbs...
 
On Monday I finished up a two canopy property line half-crown reduction project, after having bailed out from the windy leading edge of a hilltop rain and lightning storm on my previous visit. It was back yard 70' mewp work, if you had a 70' mewp. The trunks both lie on the lot of the east neighbor.

The hook was amazing. I set an srt line fairly high in a hot mess laurel oak with crown dieback, deadwooded the interior on my climb up to the tip. I noticed that one low branch was over-extended to a natural lion tail, and I could not limbwalk to make an appropriate reduction cut, so I planned my route around it. I used the hook to ascend 5' past my TIP into dead/dying 4" wood, and establish a temporary sling TIP for my climbing line. I went out sideways 7' into the adjacent leader to 2" wood to reduce 1/3 and remove top and bottom dieback, but the top was too exposed to climb into. I uppercut my hook into it from the underside, cut the branch off while keeping the hook under tension, transferred it on my lowering line, and removed the hook. Removed the bottom dead wood by cutnchuck, then went back to my original hook tip and popped out the 4" dead top. I chucked the hook across 20'/down 5', re-established and descended back onto my original climbing line TIP, traversed, ascended up to the hook, climbed vertically past it with lanyard to make 2 (50%) dieback/mistletoe/reduction cuts in 2" wood, then backed down onto it and went out for a long upper canopy walk, supported by a horizontal tip and the hook ~10' above me and at a 40° angle to my climbing line. 15' out I reduced and ziplined out a crossed up interior branch at 2", then made a 1/3 reduction cut in 2" wood about 25' out. I redirected my climbing line in 3" wood, then shook the hook out and used it to yank off a 1" dead limb. I bailed off onto the climbing line redirect, in position to reduce the single-leader over-extended low branch to 50% at 2.5" wood, then came to ground.

The only things I did *not* use the hook for were ziplining and as sole climbing support. For any folks unaware, the hook is explicitly rated against primary life support, and ziplines are supposed to utilize an enclosed pulley or locking biner.

I loaded the 3 grapplefulls of brush onto my trailer, then went to talk and wrap things up with the homeowner. As usual, the trees still looked like trees when I was finished (damnably similar to the original trees...) and the $900 bill dictated that large lower-limb lion-taiĺing cuts be made to keep up with the Joneses immediately to the south - like, their name may have actually been Lion-tail Jones. I pointed out all the cuts which, from the ground, look tiny... Re-explain wind, levers, and forces, and remind him that my small piles were actually quite manly and massive in terms of force allieviation. Poor guy got high-end care and is still unsure of it, but I give him props for trusting me a bit.

That hook, though, was on fleek.
 
Great Hook report Colb! It really is super efficient for the right situations. It's like an extendable third hand at the ready. I recently "permanently" attached a prusik cord, micro pulley and non-locking biner to my Hook line bag so I always have a quick RADS ready. Trango Cinch is still on the Hook line at all times, it proves its utility every time I use the Hook.
-AJ
 
Great Hook report Colb! It really is super efficient for the right situations. It's like an extendable third hand at the ready. I recently "permanently" attached a prusik cord, micro pulley and non-locking biner to my Hook line bag so I always have a quick RADS ready. Trango Cinch is still on the Hook line at all times, it proves its utility every time I use the Hook.
-AJ

I've got just a pulley with old oceans 10mm. It's great as long as it's not primary vertical weight support, when the hitch binds up... I want to get a rope wrench on it for that.

I know a lot of guys run the cinch so I appreciate that it pairs well with the hook, but I don't understand why.

What do you need rads for? Energy savings? I use my pantin to ascend.
 
On Monday I finished up a two canopy property line half-crown reduction project, after having bailed out from the windy leading edge of a hilltop rain and lightning storm on my previous visit. It was back yard 70' mewp work, if you had a 70' mewp. The trunks both lie on the lot of the east neighbor.

The hook was amazing. I set an srt line fairly high in a hot mess laurel oak with crown dieback, deadwooded the interior on my climb up to the tip. I noticed that one low branch was over-extended to a natural lion tail, and I could not limbwalk to make an appropriate reduction cut, so I planned my route around it. I used the hook to ascend 5' past my TIP into dead/dying 4" wood, and establish a temporary sling TIP for my climbing line. I went out sideways 7' into the adjacent leader to 2" wood to reduce 1/3 and remove top and bottom dieback, but the top was too exposed to climb into. I uppercut my hook into it from the underside, cut the branch off while keeping the hook under tension, transferred it on my lowering line, and removed the hook. Removed the bottom dead wood by cutnchuck, then went back to my original hook tip and popped out the 4" dead top. I chucked the hook across 20'/down 5', re-established and descended back onto my original climbing line TIP, traversed, ascended up to the hook, climbed vertically past it with lanyard to make 2 (50%) dieback/mistletoe/reduction cuts in 2" wood, then backed down onto it and went out for a long upper canopy walk, supported by a horizontal tip and the hook ~10' above me and at a 40° angle to my climbing line. 15' out I reduced and ziplined out a crossed up interior branch at 2", then made a 1/3 reduction cut in 2" wood about 25' out. I redirected my climbing line in 3" wood, then shook the hook out and used it to yank off a 1" dead limb. I bailed off onto the climbing line redirect, in position to reduce the single-leader over-extended low branch to 50% at 2.5" wood, then came to ground.

The only things I did *not* use the hook for were ziplining and as sole climbing support. For any folks unaware, the hook is explicitly rated against primary life support, and ziplines are supposed to utilize an enclosed pulley or locking biner.

I loaded the 3 grapplefulls of brush onto my trailer, then went to talk and wrap things up with the homeowner. As usual, the trees still looked like trees when I was finished (damnably similar to the original trees...) and the $900 bill dictated that large lower-limb lion-taiĺing cuts be made to keep up with the Joneses immediately to the south - like, their name may have actually been Lion-tail Jones. I pointed out all the cuts which, from the ground, look tiny... Re-explain wind, levers, and forces, and remind him that my small piles were actually quite manly and massive in terms of force allieviation. Poor guy got high-end care and is still unsure of it, but I give him props for trusting me a bit.

That hook, though, was on fleek.

One thing I forgot to mention: when I traversed to my second main leader I couldn't redirect my climbing line there because I only had 3' on the ground, with another redirect ahead. The hook was useful because 1. ) I could limbwalk supported by two ropes at a broad angle, because 2.) I didn't have to go back to retrieve it, and because 3.) I saved 20' of rope so I could make it to the ground. Also, 4.) there was less friction when pulling the rope out...
 
I've got just a pulley with old oceans 10mm. It's great as long as it's not primary vertical weight support, when the hitch binds up... I want to get a rope wrench on it for that.

I know a lot of guys run the cinch so I appreciate that it pairs well with the hook, but I don't understand why.

What do you need rads for? Energy savings? I use my pantin to ascend.

Nothing is perfect. What's good about the Cinch is it's a perfect match for a 10mm Hook line, it doesn't bind like a hitch when the Hook is loaded and you're letting line out. Downside of a device like the Cinch is it doesn't have a straight-through rope path so you can't ascend on it with a Pantin. Therefore a quick on the line RADS makes it happen.

If I'm doing a traverse I am able to simply pull line through the Cinch to capture progress, one hand above pulling one hand on the tail pushing so-to-speak, when it gets too steep then the RADS goes on.

Yep if I was just using a hitch I wouldn't use a RADS.

The Cinch is sweet as an adjuster too when you're using the Hook for positioning. A hitch does that too of course, like I said nothing is perfect for everything.
-AJ
 
Pictures? Please! :reloco:

Really? This will be so boring ;-) I like my Microcender better for a RADS rope grab, just can't locate it this week.

34241153233_35b3fc3b23_c.jpg
 
Captain is 90cm across
These ladder snaps are much less and useless half the time. Keep the lock function and get some rubber orings
 

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I'd have that ladder hook stuck on a limb in 5 minutes. No way that compares with the Captain.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
 
I'm thinking about adding a cinch to my hook, but they seem to be no longer available. Instead Trango is offering up a device called the Vergo, https://www.trango.com/p-337-vergo.aspx Seems very similar in function, I'm wondering if this device offers any improvements or if I should be looking for a good used cinch. Any insight from veteran cinchers ?
 
I'm thinking about adding a cinch to my hook, but they seem to be no longer available. Instead Trango is offering up a device called the Vergo, https://www.trango.com/p-337-vergo.aspx Seems very similar in function, I'm wondering if this device offers any improvements or if I should be looking for a good used cinch. Any insight from veteran cinchers ?

Just checked out the Vergo instructional video, looks excellent. It is very similar in size and function to the Cinch but has a larger handle which is good. It looks like it's easier to feed rope back through it, they modified the design (from the Cinch) to improve that. Looks like a go to me.
-AJ
 

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