death during assesment

Re: Petzl William Ball locks

to remove the rope you either pull it straight through the device, of you remove the krab attaching it to the rope and pull the spring round to the other side
basically your line aint coming out unless you want it too.
I'm using 10.5mm beal topgun.
It's a mountaineering rope. Have it set on a cambium saver with micro pulley so theres hardly any friction.
gonna switch to the fly soon. the shunt will only take upto 11mm rope so up till now there hasn't really been a good alternative to mountaineering rope.
As for the trainer, i'm not all that sure. I'm guessing its down to the shunt itself, because its not actually designed to be used in this way, its basically a back up for descent and self belay etc.
works great this way though. its self advancing also much like the lock jack.
cool thing with the shunt also, you can stick it through both ropes which comes in handy. you can attach a length of line with a couple of foot loops to it and ascend instead of foot locking for one.
 
Re: Petzl William Ball locks

Interesting! But surely Steve this is complicated beyond the bounds of neccesity? Do you have anything against friction hitches and is the fig8 a back up of types? Do you climbed on friction hitches for any length of time?

Nod
 
Re: Petzl William Ball locks

which part did you see as complicated? its actually probably easier than a friction hitch as theres no knots to tie.
I climbed for 5 years on various friction hitched, last one being v.t
finally switched to this set up just over a year ago and dont think i'll ever go back to friction hitches again.the fig8 i rarely use, sometimes i'll stick it on there for a long descent.
not so much of a back up, and speed control

steve
 
Re: Shunt in climbing system

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
The guy taking the course wouldn't let him use it [the Shunt]....I'm guessing its down to the shunt itself, because its not actually designed to be used in this way

[/ QUOTE ]
There's little to guess about. Steve has been touting this system on the TCI forum and I'll offer the same warnings here as I posted there.

The Petzl Shunt was originally designed as a "mechanical prusik" to be used as a rappel back up below the descent device. It also came to be used, on dynamic rope, as a solo climbing safety and is now the most commonly used secondary safety on a separate line for rope access work (though it is required to keep it at or above waist level to prevent excessive shock loading).

Petzl's technical bulletin requires it to be used on either dynamic or low-stretch rope. It will not fit a rope larger than 11mm (7/16"). And in extensive testing done in the UK, it slipped on 10.5mm rope with as little as 515 lbs of static force and slipped dramatically (more than 2 meters) on a factor 2 fall of 2 meters with a 100kg load.

I don't doubt that the Shunt would work as Steve is describing it, but it is clearly using it beyond its design. The Shunt was never intended to be a descent device. It is meant to "catch softly", slip relatively easily, be releasable under load, and can be used as an ascender.

The open shell has been reinforced by a steel band in the newer versions, but it is still relatively weak and, in dynamic slippage when it hit a knot has blown open and released from the rope.

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
When i pick my climbing gear i do tend to pick what i feel most comfortable and confident with, and not what is recommended.

[/ QUOTE ]
I think it's great to adapt equipment to different uses, but to suggest to others a use that is clearly beyond the manufacturer's recommendation is irresponsible. And I have no doubt that's why the instructor wouldn't allow the Shunt for this use.

- Robert
 
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