Cutting problem?

[Scratch]

I'm having problems cutting through logs right now. I'm cutting Cottonwood and Boxelder. The chain is sharp and the chips are coming out nice and big, but it's almost like the bar is too wide for the chain. It starts cutting fine but almost gets "stuck" after the first few inches of cut. I have a Stihl MS362C with a 20" bar on it. I use a Pferd sharpener with a 13/64" file. I have filed the edges of the bar to make sure there's no burr anywhere, and I do flip the bar every time I sharpen. The chain I have on there now is a Stihl but I also have this Oregon that I might try next. (The only thing about this Oregon is that it requires a 7/32" file instead of the 13/64" files that I've been using. Not sure how big of a deal that is...)

It will plunge cut great, but once I plunge all the way through and start to go down, it's "almost" like the chain isn't even there. If I start from the top of the log, like I said it starts cutting fine, but after about 3-4 inches, it feels like it wants to just stop.

I've had this saw and bar for years with no problem, and this chain I think I put on last year. It was cutting great when I put it on.

Any ideas?

 

[southsoundtree]

Try a different, new chain.

Look down the uninstalled bar for straightness.


When you put the chain on, I'm assuming, it was sharp and cutting straight, then used.


Sharp and cutting straight are different.

Any curve to the kerf?


Pics always helps.

 

[Scratch]

Cutting straight, maybe a little curve by the end of a long cut, but not much. The bar looks very straight to me with no chain on. I guess I could take a pic of the cut to show how much curve there is, what else would you like to see, the bar?

Is it ok to sharpen that Oregon with a 13/64" file? I don't have a different new chain right now to try.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

Have you flattened the top rails of the bar and dressed the top rails

 

[DRBetz]

It sounds to me like one side of your chain is sharper than the other and causing the cut to curve and trap the bar.

 

[ATH]

Yes, you can used the 13/64" file instead of 7/32". Just make sure you are at the top of the tooth enough. Ideally I'd rather use 7/32" instead of 13/64" to make sure you get the whole tooth.

I agree with @DRBetz you may be getting just enough curve in the cut to pinch the bar. Are the left and right teeth the same length and same angles? I'd start with a new chain (like new out of box) and see what that does. Know anybody with a bench sharpener? They can "reset" the chain so all the teeth are the same when properly set up. It takes a lot of experience to keep everything even just hand sharpening. I've gotten myself better by using the Pferd 2-in-1 sharpener.

 

[Bart_]

Is the chain well used i.e. smaller teeth narrower kerf? If so on a bar with worn groove, a slight case of unequal sharpening left/right teeth, the chain can angle over in the cut allowing the bar edge to hang up on some contact. Fresh chain with on spec bar groove will fix - and no flashing sticking out sideways off the bar groove. Chain drive teeth wear also contribute to tilt not just the groove width.