Cord attachement to Fixe

[Chris_Cowell]

Re: slipping knot

I had a PO5 pulled by the UK Petzl importer a few years ago. The first test ended when the karabiner attached to the 'becket' broke (!), a second test on the same PO5 broke the becket at a load of 17229N. Think we can be happy enough with that sort of rating! I know of other tests where the becket has failed at higher than the 22kN rating of the pulley. I will be bringing the test records to the ITCC if anyone is interested.

 

[Kevin]

Re: slipping knot

My concern would be more in tune with the rope riding on the edge of the becket where it could be subject to a shock load rather than the strength of the becket.

 

[Chris_Cowell]

Re: slipping knot

We also ran some tests to mimic the application that is being discussed here i.e. a friction hitch (v.t. 3+3) tied to the becket of the PO5. In a static pull on a single line, the hitch slipped at approx 11kN. That's eqivalent to 22kN at the anchor. There was no sign of damage to the hitch cord at the becket.

 

[Mahk_Adams]

Re: slipping knot

Cowbell;

I'd like to have the data from the tests that you did. I will be in Montreal--how can I find you? You can email me off the board.

Thanks.

What is 'origami'?

Mahk

 

[Mark Chisholm]

Re: slipping knot

Tony Sackett (Fresco) had some testing performed on this technique as well. He will be sending his findings to me next week (when he returns) and I will OFCOURSE post them ASAP. Thanks for that Tony!

 

[JamieG]

Re: slipping knot

Yale broke 5 of these for Fresco about 8 months ago. All sheared the rope in the fixed end. They were the same type rig that Nick had set up in his picture. I will post pictures Monday.

 

[Ghivelder]

The technical information attatched to the fixe has no mention of such a use. I would definetely not pass it at a TCC gear check. The device is clearly not designed to be used that way.
It isn't only a matter of ratings. A binner for example, does have a rating of (say) 8kN on the short side, but that doesn't mean I can create a system in which I side load a binner on purpose saying that since is my 25 kilos daughter using it there is plenty of safety margin to the binner ratings. Still, they shouldn't be side loaded...
Of course our hardware doesn't always brakes when used in the wrong way (otherwise I guess many of us would be dead by now), but that doesn't mean that we are not supposed to use them in the proper way and for the function they are designed for.

Sergio