Compact carabiner or screw link

[Steve-o]

Hey guys
I am currently into the RADS system with a Petzl ID, Petzl hand ascender with Petzl Roll Clip to a Pantin. With everything connected and working up the rope, I get hardware interference with every step as the ID collides with the ascender and roll clip. I have the ID connected to a Raduis ring on my Sequioa bridge via Petzl William carabiner.
I'd like to make things more compact for greater travel and was thinking a Delta link instead of carabiner. I also was thinking of an adjustable bridge to take out slack.
Any other thoughts?

 

[TimBr]

@Steve-o; I'm sorry, I'm having a hard time picturing the way that you are using the Petzl Roll Clip in this setup. Could you add some detail, or post a photo of the gear that shows how it is all set up relative to each other? I know some folks don't like to post photos of themselves on the internet, so maybe having it hanging on a rope or laid out on a flat surface would be good enough.

Also, I know you are probably looking for answers that relate directly to the gear you already own, but you could expand your research to include the "Rope Walker" system. This is the system that I have found works easiest for me. Foot ascender on the ankle. Knee ascender above it, which has a webbing strap on the bottom side as a foot loop, and a piece of bungee cord on the top side, which causes the knee ascender to self-tend. Then a multi-scender at chest level that self-tends via a chest harness connection or an over the shoulder holder upper thingy (OTSHUT). At the top of all this I use a Gibbs style ascender to attach the knee ascender's bungee cord for tending, and as a backup to my primary ascent system. No teeth on a Gibbs ascender = safer. The multi-scender can be a Rope Wrench, Hitch Hiker, Bulldog Bone, Rope Runner, etc. Many people like the Wrench and the Hitch Hiker, as possibly the two cheapest ways into SRT. Both rely on a properly tied hitch, though.

That about does it for me. Good luck in your search for solutions. Try to build in backups for safety, if you can.

Tim

P.S. The use of a foot ascender & a knee ascender & a multi-scender at chest level means that everything is offset from each other, and things rarely interfere with each other. With a decent slack tending setup, the only limit to how fast you can climb straight up is your own heart, lungs and legs.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

I found that RADS is awkward for tree work. In the years before there were multicenders available I tolerated the clunkiness of RADS though

As Tim suggested consider moving to a rope walker system

One of the shortest double locking biners that I've found is from ISC...I can't recall the name, you can find it...in the Gecko series

Delta's and other screwlinks work too. It's not hard to find one with proper breaking strength. Take a look at stainless steel screwlinks from sailing

 

[Fairfield]

@Steve-o , are you new tontree work or do you come from a different Discipline of climbing?

 

[Steve-o]

@Fairfield I am a new rec climber that is trying to see what the best combination is with the gear I have.

 

[Raven]

Yes shorten the bridge to make full use of your arm length.
Move the Rollclip to the top hole of the Ascencion. Or get the CT Quickroll ascender - it's perfect.
Ditch the radius ring when your only ascending. Not only will you lose the length but it will rotate the Rig 90 deg putting the handle in a better working position.

And are you saying you use a Pantin on the fall line under the Rollclip? You really should have a footloop attached directly to the Ascencion it will be way more efficient and less clunky.

A Croll chest ascender will turn that RADS into a Frogwalker - twice as fast and easy, then you can transfer back to the Rig when you reach height.

Good luck

 

[Steve-o]

@Raven thanx for the tip on the foot loop. I set up and tried the Croll into a frog walker but i had the realization that I needed to plan out when and where to change over to the ID. The ascenders don't want to release from the rope unless there is abundant slack to let the teeth disengage. I ended up sitting on a branch while figuring it out. Not something easily done with a taught line. All part of the fun of climbing! Just need more practice....

 

[moss]

@Raven thanx for the tip on the foot loop. I set up and tried the Croll into a frog walker but i had the realization that I needed to plan out when and where to change over to the ID. The ascenders don't want to release from the rope unless there is abundant slack to let the teeth disengage. I ended up sitting on a branch while figuring it out. Not something easily done with a taught line. All part of the fun of climbing! Just need more practice....

Yep, switching from ascent to descent with a Croll and handled ascender on the rope is a tricky procedure, practice it low.

I would ditch the Pantin in a RADS, makes no sense, you're already getting 3:1 on the tail of the rope, your right arm can handle that easily. Raven's comment on adding a footloop off the handled ascender is key, the left side of your body is climbing 1:1 (left hand on the handled ascender) that's where you need the foot power.

A quick and simple solution is add a second short bridge to your Sequoia "gold rings". I'm not sure that you can attach to the top hole of the handled ascender with the Rollclip. The Petzl AM'D carabiner is perfect at the top ascender hole position, it rotates all the way through so you can have the gate opening down and facing you, attach a micropulley to the biner for the tail redirect. With a short bridge and the Petzl AM'D/micropulley in the top hole position you'll have plenty of room to get enough vertical movement per ascent cycle.

As Tom mentioned the RADS is a clunky system compared to what we now have with multicenders. Nevertheless it is an excellent starter SRT system for rec climbing, ultimate efficiency is not the goal, many rec and research climbers continue to climb successfully/effectively on the RADS.
-AJ

 

[Steve-o]

AJ
Never really thought of a second shorter bridge. Makes sense. Petzl does offer an adjustable bridge but I've spent a load on equipment recently and would like to let my credit card heal.
Great idea on the ascender with foot loop and I'll see if the roll clip will fit in the upper location.
Thanx to all your input everyone!