Compact Bulldog Bone

Does anyone run htp through the bone? As observable in other threads, it is my absolute favorite right now. My one concern is how the bone might react to almost no give, the sometimes cable-like stiffness, and the hard, coarse jacket.
 
Crimsonking said:
Does anyone run htp through the bone? As observable in other threads, it is my absolute favorite right now. My one concern is how the bone might react to almost no give, the sometimes cable-like stiffness, and the hard, coarse jacket.
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I think Tyler Hoffman uses it (11 mm) but he's a welterweight. I can't get it to work at 165 lbs.
 
I tried the 5/8" and 3/4" bollards. I assume the 1/2" would give similar results.

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Well, I'm just a rec climber. I have the 3/4 installed and have used it on Tendril, Rocket Line, and Platinum (10.5) believe it or not. Otherwise, I'm using a Runner.

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Crimsonking said:
Does anyone run htp through the bone? As observable in other threads, it is my absolute favorite right now. My one concern is how the bone might react to almost no give, the sometimes cable-like stiffness, and the hard, coarse jacket.
Click to expand...
My bone wasn't grooved to accommodate larger ropes. This adds little friction to help with thinner lines.
 
Ok - so my Bone arrived a few days ago and I felt like a 5 year old on xmas day! - I'm still super excited by it, and I've taken a long time examining the detailed engineering that Gordon has put into this thing (the photos don't do it justice) - unfortunately I won't be able to use it in my workplace until these issues/modifications are solved/made:

I don't want to start messing with this amazing tool until I've received advice from those with more experience. I'll start with the most important.

1. The Bone is very hard to release (and when is does, I'm in freefall). I'm using it on 1/2"/12mm Samson Blue Streak + 1/2"/12mm Samson True Blue. I am aware that this is thicker rope than most here seem to be using - I have to make it work for this rope though. I am not using any extra bollard, and am contemplating taking off the bollard that came pre-installed on the bone and maybe using a different bollard (or none at all) on it (maybe with a small bollard put on the opposing top pin too) - Should I try this?

2. I want to take off all the cotter pins and put the whole bulldog bone together again with the pins on the other side (so the Bone is reversed) - Is this possible? - I always have the tail end of my rope draped over my left side - it works for tending, and it keeps it away from my saw on my right. I also want the cotters away from the tree, and I want to be able to examine them with just a quick look.

3. I tried the nano swivel, I don't like it. I want the Bone oriented the same way every time I go to grab it (as above) - however I love the simplicity (and action) of the revolver on my bridge. If Gordon or anyone can make a Teardrop just big enough for the Revolver gate to pass through (it's just 1 or 2 mm's too tight just now) - I will love you, and give you money (obviously I'd prefer it to be approved as safe by Gordon). Until then, I'll probably use the smallest life support biner and pulley I can find (always a possibility a pulley can inadvertently fall when unclipping - no likey).

4. As per the first point - I'm using thicker ropes. There is obviously friction then at the bottom of the Bone, therefore I have to pull the rope through when ascending - it does not slip through like so many great videos have shown me. Should I attempt to 'groove/polish' some more metal off the base, or should I just leave it alone? Any other suggestions (other than getting thinner rope)?

5. SS Cotters? - Is that just stainless steel cotters? - Should I be able to find the same ones at most hardware stores? - I'd like to get exactly the same ones if possible.


Thank you for any help. I know some topics may have been covered in the past - though I've still to read half of this thread (it takes some time - there's a lot to learn.

My boss is impressed by the bone despite the slight mods I'll have to make for our ropes.
 
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123Craig said:
Until then, I'll probably use the smallest life support biner and pulley I can find (always a possibility a pulley can inadvertently fall when unclipping - no likey).
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You should see this thread started by oceans, as it relates to your issue.

http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/rope-wrench-setup-zero-drop.30015/

The short version is to use a short piece of Zing-It tied to only one half of your pulley, with the other end tied off fairly tightly to your biner.

I do not yet own the Bulldog Bone, so this next idea might not apply to your situation, but I thought I'd mention it just in case. This idea was given to me by Bermy, of the TreeHouse forum. It comes into play when using the Hitch Hiker, and trying to make a change in the system without the risk of dropping the whole system down the rope. Bermy told me to use a small keychain biner clipped around my rope bridge and also around my climbing line, but below the climbing system. If the system were to be let go of, it can only drop down the rope as far as the keychain biner before coming to a stop.

Combine this with a Zing-It tether for the pulley, and you reduce your chances of dropping a part of your system nearly to zero. Just make sure you hang onto your life support biner, as it sounds like you'll be unclipping that from both your Bulldog Bone and your rope bridge, possibly.

That's all that I have. I look forward to hearing more from you about your Bulldog Bone experiences, and hope that it all works out well for you.

Tim
 
123Craig said:
My boss is impressed by the bone despite the slight mods I'll have to make for our ropes.
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The implication here is that you are using climbing ropes supplied by your boss. As your boss seems impressed with the Bulldog Bone, maybe he could be convinced to purchase a rope that the majority of Bulldog Bone users think is the best rope for the purpose. This would allow the Bulldog Bone to be shown off in the best possible light. What is one more great rope in the collection going to hurt?

You could take a poll, maybe, but I think I remember the name Cougar Blue being mentioned fairly often. Bulldog Bone owners, please feel free to chime in with your suggestions as to the best rope possible for the purpose.

I know you don't want to hear this, but trying to force the Bulldog Bone to work with a rope for which it might never have been intended just does not seem fair. At least to me. If your boss saw just how well the Bulldog Bone is capable of performing with the correct rope, he might be in a panic to buy one for himself ASAP.

Thanks for listening, hoping I did not irritate you too much with the rope bit.

Tim
 
My 2 cents:

1: you may find that no bollard makes it bite more agressively as it has a smaller diameter. A larger bollard will increase resistance in slack tending as it will shrink the upper arm opening. Dropping isn't that big a deal as I'm sure it grabs when u let go but if u can brace the heal of your hand against the lower arm and squeeze the top arms with your fingers youay be able to get a more nuanced control.

2. No problem

3. You can widen the opening on the teardrop but you may want to start with a larger piece of aluminium so that you maintain the same wall thickness that Gordon provides. However, I wouldn't be too concerned with a few mm.

4. Shaving some material off the bottom of the spine will probably help with slack tending but you need to pay attention to where it is rubbing-friction may be being introduce by rubbing on the sides of the top and bottom arms.

Also, the rope polishes and wears on the friction points with use.

5. Marine shops have ss cotter pins but I personally am not very concerned about a cotter pin failure. I wouldn't reuse them though.
 
I have never had an opportunity to try the ropes you mention, but I know that the Bone can be quite jerky on release with some larger dia. ropes. You should try the smallest bollard on your rope to see how it reacts.

The SS cotters can be obtained at McMaster-Carr, they are 3/32"-1/2" long. You can reverse all the links as you describe.

I will modify a teardrop to see how much material actually has to be removed to accomodate a revolver, but I suspect it will be more material than I would recommend.

I suspect that a change of rope is the best bet, rather than shaving any metal at the spine.
 
123Craig...I echo what others have said, don't try to make it work with those old DdRT ropes. More trouble than it's worth. Get some Tachyon or Cougar (or Vortex) and be done with it. If you read back through this whole thread you'll see we've all gone through ideas like this but finally realized with the right rope, we already had perfection. Hope you keep us informed.
 
The Bone does not work well with Blue Streak, with any combination of bollards or even no bollard. It is very jerky to release on this rope.

The teardrop would tolerate an 11/16" hole, which would allow the revolver to be installed.
 
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