Clock Knot = Junk

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Ha! Nothing like calling something junk when it's set up backwards!

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Gord....at the risk of flogging a very dead horse...the porty is not set up backwards...its set up right.

Unless your talking about something else?..

Hey Gord....where is that vid of you using that little powered winch for pulling that tree up the hill? I wanna get one of them, need details. Thanks.
 
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Each time you connect ring they orient themselves 180 degrees opposite. The way treeco describes the porty is perpendiclar to the tree (not wrong by any means) If you want the barrel of the porty topoint away from the tree, install the shackle as you did. Your frustration was that the long end of the barrel was set up against the tree, and when you used it it was twisted into a working position. Which you found frustrating.


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Mangoes already explained why you were having trouble with it twisting...the porty was set up so that when it lifted upright under tension, it wanted to turn to face the trunk instead of face away from it like it should. If you would have taken it off the clevis, gave it a half turn and re-attached it, it would have been correct. Examine your pics again, it was set up wrong, which was 100% to blame for the awkward twisting.

As for the running up the trunk, I suppose we all now know it's definitely not a knot to use on small diameter trunks.

Here's the manufacturer of that winch. http://www.portablewinch.com/en/
 
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I suppose the biggest problem I have with the Clock knot, is that it doesn't have a cinching/choking action.

The more you load a Timber/Cow Hitch and Whoopee sling the tighter the hold on the stem they have. The Clock knot works in the opposite way which leads to the slippage of the Clock and Porty up the stem.

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One should see a simple way around both the Clock Knot connection
AND the non-cinching aspect--to wit:

1) Use a much longer anchor rope, "doubled"--one bight, opp. twin ends;

2) Wrap it around the tree so that it crosses behind (i.e., away from anchor
point) and is joined (tied-off) back in front--sort of like a minimal VT;

3) secure it with a sturdy steel/wood dowel like a belt, running the twin
ends of the rope through the bight end, around the dowel, and back out
of the bight so that the bight will clamp upon, nip the ends.

4) A 2nd, much smaller rope, can be used to tie off the anchor point so
that it stays in its upper position; loading the anchor will try to pull UP,
and this will tighten down around back and around to the lower front
side joint; there should be no slippage (and not all so much load on the
joint), and loading will "cinch" things tighter (which isn't all so sure a case
for Timber/Cow hitches, which are essentially choker hitches and take an
equilibrium angle around a relatively large-dia object, not cinching to it).

Btw, that trunk pictured in the OP seems devoid of much friction-giving
bark!? --an aid to slippage.

*knudeNoggin*
 
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