- Location
- United Kingdom
I'll just nip out to the shops and get me a tub grinder....
Chestnut pollard
- Thread starter Rupe
- Start date
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
It looks like there are some very old wounds and decay evidence on the trunk. It's hard to imagine that the original pollarding could have been the beginning of that decay.
How did the council decide that the tree should stay? It looks like the tree would have failed even a basic 'thump test' with a plastic mallet.
How did the council decide that the tree should stay? It looks like the tree would have failed even a basic 'thump test' with a plastic mallet.
TreeCo
Carpal tunnel level member
[ QUOTE ]
It looks like there are some very old wounds and decay evidence on the trunk. It's hard to imagine that the original pollarding could have been the beginning of that decay.
[/ QUOTE ]
I think you are right Tom. It looks like the pollarding was started with a severe topping as evidenced in this part of the photo.
It looks like there are some very old wounds and decay evidence on the trunk. It's hard to imagine that the original pollarding could have been the beginning of that decay.
[/ QUOTE ]
I think you are right Tom. It looks like the pollarding was started with a severe topping as evidenced in this part of the photo.
Attachments
Pollarded my a**.
That thing wasn't pollarded.
It looks like it was repeatedly topped and the topping it is what did rot out the tree.
People doing topping like to try to use the term pollarding to describe topping. Because true pollarding is an excepted (but intensive) form of trimming. Topping is not.
True pollarding, creates a tree with NO rot or large wounds. I true pollarded tree will have large round "heads" at the end of the branches.
The very first time the tree is cut, the cut is made to the material that is no bigger than like 1 1/2 inch diameter. (I think that's the size anyway, going from my memory). This diameter is small enough, that it heals over, and resprouts from that stubbed end. You cut these sprouts off at where they emerge at their collar, in like two years, before they get too big in diameter also. Then they heal over quickly. After this is repeated over time, the tree has huge looking "heads" at the ends. No rot gets in the tree.
Pollarding is very labor intensive. These art like trees are healthy and can live 400-500 years or more if the process is repeated all that time.
I'm tired of hearing people call topping as pollarding .
Topping is wrong.
Pollarding is not (although labor intensive and constant care needed).
I have never done or seen a true pollarded tree in person, only in pictures.
I'd like to try two Crape Myrtles or two London Plain trees sometime at my house though. And I just hope my kin and grandchildren continue with them.
That thing wasn't pollarded.
It looks like it was repeatedly topped and the topping it is what did rot out the tree.
People doing topping like to try to use the term pollarding to describe topping. Because true pollarding is an excepted (but intensive) form of trimming. Topping is not.
True pollarding, creates a tree with NO rot or large wounds. I true pollarded tree will have large round "heads" at the end of the branches.
The very first time the tree is cut, the cut is made to the material that is no bigger than like 1 1/2 inch diameter. (I think that's the size anyway, going from my memory). This diameter is small enough, that it heals over, and resprouts from that stubbed end. You cut these sprouts off at where they emerge at their collar, in like two years, before they get too big in diameter also. Then they heal over quickly. After this is repeated over time, the tree has huge looking "heads" at the ends. No rot gets in the tree.
Pollarding is very labor intensive. These art like trees are healthy and can live 400-500 years or more if the process is repeated all that time.
I'm tired of hearing people call topping as pollarding .
Topping is wrong.
Pollarding is not (although labor intensive and constant care needed).
I have never done or seen a true pollarded tree in person, only in pictures.
I'd like to try two Crape Myrtles or two London Plain trees sometime at my house though. And I just hope my kin and grandchildren continue with them.
- Location
- Austin, TX
Thanks Xman for clarifying. I too hate that most people confuse topping with pollarding.
I have seen 300yr old pollards.
I have also cut a lot of topped chestnuts.
Personally, I like chestnuts when they are left alone. I have put cables in this chestnut but I have also climbed it just for the view.
I have seen 300yr old pollards.
I have also cut a lot of topped chestnuts.
Personally, I like chestnuts when they are left alone. I have put cables in this chestnut but I have also climbed it just for the view.
Attachments
- Location
- Boulder County, CO.
Thank you, x-man. Here's from chapter 35, Shigo's New Tree Biology:
"Pollarding is different from topping. Pollarding starts when trees are relatively small and young. The tree is topped once and a number of new shoots form. Every year, the shoots are cut off without cutting into the tissue below the origin of the buds....Pollarding must be started early in the life of the tree and kept up every year..."
X-man is right, pollarding does not cause decay. I have a number of trees that i've been pollarding for over 20 years now, and have done some cutting into storm damaged branches and a small leader (broke due to a bad crotch I should have cabled), and no decay in the wood. http://www.berkelhammer.com/pruningtechniques.html
Topping, on the other hand, causes the same type of decay that is clearly visible in the photos. This decay typically spreads right down to the roots. This tree fell, at least in part, because it was topped, 30 years ago and maybe before that, not pollarded.
No opinion on the weight, though
"Pollarding is different from topping. Pollarding starts when trees are relatively small and young. The tree is topped once and a number of new shoots form. Every year, the shoots are cut off without cutting into the tissue below the origin of the buds....Pollarding must be started early in the life of the tree and kept up every year..."
X-man is right, pollarding does not cause decay. I have a number of trees that i've been pollarding for over 20 years now, and have done some cutting into storm damaged branches and a small leader (broke due to a bad crotch I should have cabled), and no decay in the wood. http://www.berkelhammer.com/pruningtechniques.html
Topping, on the other hand, causes the same type of decay that is clearly visible in the photos. This decay typically spreads right down to the roots. This tree fell, at least in part, because it was topped, 30 years ago and maybe before that, not pollarded.
No opinion on the weight, though
- Location
- Austin, TX
- Location
- United Kingdom
You are right of course true pollarding is very different to what has happened here. However this form of heavy cutting back is more than just topping, and has gained the term (wrongly or rightly) pollarding.
In my mind topping is a heavy reduction leaving some lower branches to form some sort of crown.
Pollarding (in this case is) is removing all growth back to the trunk or maybe trunk plus some stems/branches creating a hat rack effect.
Not good practice, especially for this species. It was done 20-30 years ago and then I did it again as the council would only allow that and not removal.
The customers insuranc epaid up in full due to the fact that he had done all he could to remove it and then make it safer(questionable!) by re pollarding. Ideally the council should pay up but that will never happen.
In my mind topping is a heavy reduction leaving some lower branches to form some sort of crown.
Pollarding (in this case is) is removing all growth back to the trunk or maybe trunk plus some stems/branches creating a hat rack effect.
Not good practice, especially for this species. It was done 20-30 years ago and then I did it again as the council would only allow that and not removal.
The customers insuranc epaid up in full due to the fact that he had done all he could to remove it and then make it safer(questionable!) by re pollarding. Ideally the council should pay up but that will never happen.
- Location
- Boulder County, CO.
Maybe next time, run an increment borer in, to demonstrate the extent of decay due to the previous topping. Do you think the council might listen, given what happened to this tree?
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
[ QUOTE ]
You decide pollard or topping?
[/ QUOTE ]
Looks like proper pollard heads to me
You decide pollard or topping?
[/ QUOTE ]
Looks like proper pollard heads to me
luckily all you gota do around here is suggest the slightest decay to get a tpo off a tree to fell it ,good or bad ???? council has had a lot of problems with beng sued mainly due to chesnut and beach failing and killing or injuring people not worth risk but i think thats the way its going with all trees in this country due to lawyers
looks like a pollard to me too.
im not sure of figures but im reasonably sure Xman is out on his 1inch diameter?
ive never actually been told a specific size, is there one? and does it cover all species?
im not sure of figures but im reasonably sure Xman is out on his 1inch diameter?
ive never actually been told a specific size, is there one? and does it cover all species?
guymayor
Branched out member
- Location
- East US, Earth
"Aesculus hippocastanum(Horse chestnut) is notorius for dropping huge limbs unexpectedly."
Ax, i think a cursory inspection would have led one to expect failure of this tree, as an inspection will expose poor condition in most trees that have poor condition. Horsechestnut is no more prone to sudden limb drop than many other species imo. Most of those failures are preventable with ptoer care.
Dunno about pollard-lapsed pollard-topping-reduction here. If council did not specify leaving some of the regrowth but instead just said "re-pollard" then they are partially liable imo. After 7 years' lapse they need a closer look don't they?
Glad no one got physically hurt and owner did not get hurt in the wallet, and arborist got paid (but now has a yardful of beautiful biomass) Everyones sorta happy huh?
Ax, i think a cursory inspection would have led one to expect failure of this tree, as an inspection will expose poor condition in most trees that have poor condition. Horsechestnut is no more prone to sudden limb drop than many other species imo. Most of those failures are preventable with ptoer care.
Dunno about pollard-lapsed pollard-topping-reduction here. If council did not specify leaving some of the regrowth but instead just said "re-pollard" then they are partially liable imo. After 7 years' lapse they need a closer look don't they?
Glad no one got physically hurt and owner did not get hurt in the wallet, and arborist got paid (but now has a yardful of beautiful biomass) Everyones sorta happy huh?
[ QUOTE ]
Horsechestnut is no more prone to sudden limb drop than many other species imo. Most of those failures are preventable
[/ QUOTE ]
You cannot prevent sudden branch drop! this is why it is called 'sudden' branch drop.
Guy you cant fix everything in the world, your just gonna have to except the chaos and hubris of our lives every now and again.
Horsechestnut is no more prone to sudden limb drop than many other species imo. Most of those failures are preventable
[/ QUOTE ]
You cannot prevent sudden branch drop! this is why it is called 'sudden' branch drop.
Guy you cant fix everything in the world, your just gonna have to except the chaos and hubris of our lives every now and again.
- Location
- United Kingdom
[ QUOTE ]
Hey Rupe
When you worked on it did you climb it?
[/ QUOTE ]
Yep, I have photos somewhere but pre digital, so I'll have to search through the shoe boxes.
Hey Rupe
When you worked on it did you climb it?
[/ QUOTE ]
Yep, I have photos somewhere but pre digital, so I'll have to search through the shoe boxes.
- Location
- United Kingdom
"You cannot prevent sudden branch drop! this is why it is called 'sudden' branch drop."
I call it "summer limb drop". chestnuts are very prone to this, more than any other species. I've seen many case. it usually happens early evening in the summer. The limbs are heavy due to leaves and chestnuts, also it seems to be when the air temp drops after a hot day.
In all the case I can remember the limbs fell at approx 7pm.
I call it "summer limb drop". chestnuts are very prone to this, more than any other species. I've seen many case. it usually happens early evening in the summer. The limbs are heavy due to leaves and chestnuts, also it seems to be when the air temp drops after a hot day.
In all the case I can remember the limbs fell at approx 7pm.
- Location
- United Kingdom
[ QUOTE ]
pop round and borrow mine
[/ QUOTE ]
Seriously, have you got one? I've got a yard full of lleylandii and other rubbish that will need clearing soon.
And another yard full of chestnut!
pop round and borrow mine
[/ QUOTE ]
Seriously, have you got one? I've got a yard full of lleylandii and other rubbish that will need clearing soon.
And another yard full of chestnut!
New threads New posts
-
test
-
-
KBNest -Midline Attachable SRS Canopy Anchor.
- Started by TreeSteward
- Replies: 1
-
-
-
-
